Can't fix this electrical issue.

Holy crap, glad you're still with us.

 

If you shorted two adjacent bus bars together, then "all" you had were two charged modules (around 16V), that could put out a couple hundred amps for a short amount of time. Still a lot of power, enough to run a typical ICE starter motor.

I would be surprised that the loose connections at the contactors didn't "burn" them or otherwise cause damage.


Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

"Why can't my two code scanner apps as well as my Creader handheld scanner see these U and C series codes?"

Because none of them are capable of "talking" the the ecu's that have the codes. A Gen2 Prius has 15-16 ecu's. DrPrius and Car Scanner can read codes from the ECM, hybrid control, and (some from the) HV battery ecu's. IDK what model of Creader you have- the more basic ones can only connect to the ECM.

This is the exact reason I made an app review thread (stickied) at the top of the Technical Discussion forum.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Engineering begins at power, and power requires grounds.
I have been certified in over 30 electronic systems in my life, and all the classes started with that.
You need to get the HV battery in it and forget if its right or not, and go find the problem with the car.

From what I have read, you have a loose corroded connector, fuse, fuse block, wire, or rodent damage.

I would get the car running and care less about the HV, and start pulling and pushing on wires and connectors, for a start, while the ice is running, you have way too many problems and they all seem to be tied to loss of communication and rebooting (for lack of a better term).

Dont ignore the condition of those underhood fuses, road salt took one out on this 2005 years ago which took out the power train control module next to an engine computer behind the glove box, the two of them do not share the same power source, i found after much schematicing around, which led me to a fuse, that when pulled, disintegrated.

There is a bigger problem than the HV and working on the battery at this point is futile, in my opinion.

 

That's odd, because after 99 years of being qualified on 6.7 million systems, and having 4 minutes of hands on experience, I've always been of the mantra to fix the obvious first. It's probably saved me at least 400 years of tail chasing false triggers.

I would get the car running and care less about the HV

How ITH is he supposed to do that without an HV battery? Do you actually know how a Gen 2 works?

 

no i am totally clueless, yes you are right, he should spend about 4 weeks and unlimited cash building the perfect prius pack, instead of inserting what he has so he can troubleshoot the core issues, your way, he can put the pack in after hundreds of hours of work, and maybe find, the car is toast.

more excellent advice here

 

Here's what he has. It might not start the car.

 

You people are something else, obviously thats what he HAS and he states he has ORDERED the parts.

You people post strawman arguments that are retarded at the core.

So since comprehension skills are lacking here
1- You state you fried some stuff
2- You state you are securing the parts
3- You state you have all these non HV issues that prevent the car from being usefull for transportartion

SO
DO THIS
ONCE YOU GET THE PARTS
ASSEMBLE THE HV
DONT WORRY ABOUT HOW GOOD IT IS
INSTALL IT
THEN
GO FIX THE CORE ISSUES IN THE CAR
THEN
COME BACK TO THE HV

CAUSE YOU MAY BE REPAIRING A JUNK CAR
SO WHY WASTE TIME PERFECTING THE BATTERY

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
For the mentally disabled here

PS Your assertion that the OP would try to diagnose the car without the HV infers that he is stupid, he is not stupid, but your inference that he may come to the conclusion from my post that you did is actually a slight on him, not me, well, and you, for inferring such random stupidity into the thread in the first place

This is what happens when your personal bias and agenda override your common sense and dignity

 

Let's see, he is in iowa, so he can mess around with the HV, then, he can start trouble shooting a car with issues in colder and colder weather, maybe snow.
Or
He can fix the car, and work on the HV indoors where its nice and dry and comfortable regardless of whats going on outside

 

And you have no agenda? Oh, the look at me agenda. Oh, look at all the stuff I do and have agenda. YAWN.

You sure get riled up over a perceived slight.

 

you people are funny, agenda, look it up

lol look at me agenda

but at least going forward i know where you stand, explains why you post "gotcha" questions in my posts, that go nowhere you hoped, then edit them and delete them leaving an empty post.

not into your games

 

.

 

I would be cautious about any change of nuts from Toyota's. A lock with a locking washer, for example, could seem like a good idea, but end up making poorer contact. An actual "lock nut", with pinched threads making it hard to turn, would play havoc with getting the right torque and contact force.

Easily remedied at a nearby Harbor Freight, etc.

 

I'd second Chapman's advice. Go get an in*lb torque wrench.

I'd be cautious also about changing to lock nuts. If you cannot reuse the old nuts that came off the modules, buy some new ones of the same type, preferably from Toyota.

 

Well, I have nothing else to say.........

 

Serrated nuts, not advisable.
Battery bus bars | Page 2 | PriusChat