Techstream bleed process after brake booster and accumulator replacement

When you go through the full procedure in Techstream, I'm pretty sure it even learns the linear solenoid offset for you at the end of the procedure, so you don't have to bother with that second step (unless the system still shows the code about wanting it to be done).

It's all pretty straightforward if you just start the procedure in Techstream and follow the prompts. Make sure the 12 volt battery is well charged before you start, and try not to dawdle during the procedure.

Remove the windshield wipers and cowl before you start, because they're in the way of the stroke simulator bleed screw, and you don't want to get to mid-procedure where it says to bleed that, and then realize you have to take those out while the car's IG-ON and the battery is draining.

 

What are you using for a dongle?

My first bleed attempt I had to start over from the beginning five times before it got all the way through. I was ready to set things on fire. The next time I wanted to bleed I used a different dongle (same laptop, same Techstream version, just different dongle) and got through it in one.

 

you need a mongoose... or openport.. make sure the open port is authentic... I have 3-4 nonauthentic versions bricked..
VCX nano also works.

 

Also if you've got 3–4 nonauthentic versions bricked, that means at least 3–4 payments you've sent supporting people who make and sell counterfeit versions of someone else's real product. Which is not the same as making a legit competing product of their own, the way competition is s'posed to work.

 

you know.. I agree, just, I only bought one and now have a real one. the others were replacements.

 

Hi Matt, I am experiencing the same problem you described on this thread. My abs breeding keeps failing at the stroke simulator step. I didn’t have any trouble bleeding the 4 wheels, only when I get to the stroke simulator, I hear a clicking sound under the dash and then an error message appeared saying the bleeding procedure has failed. I used an inexpensive vci cable that I order off Amazon, but then I ordered a xtool scanning tool. All has failed at the stroke simulator step thus far.

Did you manage to resolve this issue? If you did, what did you do differently? Some say to get a Mongoose vci cable, is that what you did? Please advise. Thanks in advance.

Sean

 

You know, I often try to tell people, and I've written blog articles highlighting this: when it comes to the Prius and its OBD2 port, it's built differently. You can't rely on knock-off or generic low-cost devices. Despite what some might say about cheap options on Amazon or Veepak/Carista working for them, you'll likely hit an immovable brick wall.

Having a proper OBD2 device is critical for any DIY projects or monitoring/checking the battery of a Prius. It's not just about cost—it's about functionality and reliability. When you see folks showing voltages or other readings from their OBD2 devices, especially when testing HV Lithium batteries, I bet they aren't using a device with the hardware and reading capabilities of the one I recommend.

Not to confuse you, I know you are talking about OBD2 cables, and I was talking more about OBD2 dongles. So far, the Red Mongoose Cable and an authentic Tactrix 2.0 device have always worked for me. I've also used a VXDiag VCX Nano, which worked well for most tasks. I didn't try anything ABS-related with it, as I was unaware of the ABS/OBD2 challenges at the time, but I think I accidentally bought a knock-off version because it seems to have died like the two Tactrix devices I had.

What seems to happen is that these knock-off devices lack internal components like resistors that meet the specifications of a Mongoose cable. When it comes to the specific nature of how Toyota coded the ABS process, these devices can't handle it, and Techstream can't complete its tasks. Some cables won't even let you start the ABS process due to their inadequacy.

The good news is that I've developed my own OBD2 dongle with a custom PCB board. It features WiFi, Bluetooth, a USB-C port, and an SD card slot. It has its own web interface for reading values, checking error codes, and clearing them. Once I finish the necessary coding, it will work with Techstream, and I'm confident it will handle the ABS bleed process thanks to its robust hardware. I just need to get it to work with Techstream via Bluetooth or WiFi. I can easily make more, and the cost would be less than the OBD2 device I currently recommend. However, I don't have the time to finish all the coding right now, so I can't offer it to resolve your issue at this moment.

but.. i did write a blog article which will help you, if you end up getting one of the devices I want and don't have, please let me know how it works out for you!

https://black.jmyntrn.com/2024/06/23/techstream-obd2-device-thoughts/?utm_source=PriusChat&utm_medium=weblinkt&utm_campaign=commentlinkJune