Water Pump with Metal Impeller?

Not that I know of I've looked at a bunch of different ones and they all seem to be made by one or two factories in the no name ones literally have the Asian name ground right off the front aluminum part of the cover It was never stamped there to begin with or something along those lines The plastic that messes up on the impeller is not the impeller per se It's the wrapping of the windings or whatever you call that stuff that's in a mag drive impeller because there's no physical shaft running from the motor to the wedding like a pool pump has a shaft that runs through it these are more like a washing machine drain pump or a mag drive pool pond pump. The plastic wrapping the winding or the metal that is in the center of the impeller if you will that stuff wears out gets excessively heated swells and then the impeller won't spin and it's bore You can take it out the impeller and clean it up literally take the plastic off of it put it back in and it'll work pretty much perfectly. I don't know how long that metal can stay exposed until it rusts and is gone completely. You can buy impellers apparently on Amazon for $24 that's usually what goes bad in these pumps Good luck with your car man.

 

I've never seen a metal impeller replacement advertised for our cars.

Interesting. What's the voltmeter test?

moto g power ?

 

I thinks it's 3.8 qts for the transmission. Was the car level when you drained and filled it.
You fill until it seeps out of the fill hose.

Where did you get that there was voltage in the coolant? HOW did you measure that??????
WHY would you change the coolant pump?

Doubtful you'll find a metal impeller. The impeller will likely only brake if you drop it, like I did.
It's the white plastic surrounding the magnets that will swell up.

I still have the original thermostat at just shy of 310,000 miles.

 

If just the front of the car was raised, and considering the transaxle drain bolt is towards the rear, I think you’d end up filling less, not more. 3.8 qts sounds about right; think I managed something around 3.6 liters, which are slightly bigger.

 

BTW, not noted in repair manual, but I did find in a Toyota document somewhere: only use Toyota ATF WS fluid from freshly opened bottles. In other words, recycle any leftovers. I’d gather it attracts moisture over time?

More info in one of my signature links (on a phone turn it landscape to see signature).

 

I would do 3-5 years or 50k miles or less coolant changes. 100k or 10 years initially is too long a period.

I would be most concern about degradation of the rubber (synthetic polymer) in the head gasket leading to a very expensive repair. Coolant is cheap compared to a head gasket replacement. Using an airlift system or equivalent, a coolant change takes about 30 minutes without the need to do multiple starts and stops and getting the car into the service mode.

 

No need to get every drop out. Just drain the radiator and get out as much as you can. The little that you can't get out by not opening the block drain is totally diluted by the new coolant. The block drain may be corroded and either break of or not reseal. It's not worth the risk to bother with it.

 

Our engines are all aluminum are they not?

 

As for the replacement water pump, I get a brand new Asin made OEM quality Toyota one. Any aluminum impeller one might not be better. A heavier aluminum impeller has a greater moment of inertia and is harder to start or stop, so it may not function any better and would likely be worse.

You really want to monitor water pump efficiency which is directly related to coolant temperature. The best way to monitor this is a Scangauge 2. I use mine to also monitor the 12 volt battery voltage, the HV battery temperature and the inverter coolant temperature. The Scangauge does this continuously and warns you of any impending issues.

Here's how mine looks at the spot above the steering column cover.

 

If you really want to drain all the coolant, don't forget to disconnect the hoses off the converter
under the car.....
And if you fill VERY SLOWLY, non need for vacuum....

 

Great minds think alike.

I have thought of this too but there are none.

Would be perfect to replace the plastic one.

 

The reason for the shorter interval after the initial coolant change is that you leave some old coolant in the heater loop.

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To be really safe, I do the 3 year coolant change interval.

 

Yes, I know there are two different systems...
I forget the name of it, but as I said, under the car, where the coolant hose
goes to the "dirverter(?)" to heat up the coolant faster.
It's under the car, before the catalitic converter...
When scum bags steal the coverter, they sometimes cut those coolant lines....