12V Battery Cable help ASAP

I have ordered a genuine inverter coolant pump, was questioning about the engine water pump.

I’m confused about the second pump. Where does this one go? What’s the difference between G9020-47031 & 16670-21010?

Also can I use the Lisle funnel to bleed the inverter coolant pump?

Best way to drain the engine water pump? Is it by the driver’s side under the bumper?

 

Estimate shows required part numbers, have no idea where you see engine water pump.

Google or search PC

Prius replace coolant control valve
Prius replace inverter coolant pump
Prius bleed inverter coolant pump

 

Update! I have drained the inverter coolant, waiting for the pump to arrive. Car is sitting on the ramp, will drain the engine coolant as well to replace the other coolant pump Anything I can do to speed up the process or prep up in the meantime? Oh one more thing, will replace the serpentine belt today. Will probably swap the spark plugs as well. I watched a video where the guy didn’t unplug the coils just removed the bolt and replaced the spark plugs, the hardest one to swap is the last one from the right I guess. Recommended spark plugs pls?

 

Probably ok to do as long as you're not putting any undue strain on the cable of each plug. If you can't get the plug out easily with the cable attached then you are as well to just unplug the coil, it only takes a couple of seconds after the first one where you figure out how the unlocking mechanism works. In any case, it's not rocket science.

 

I’ve replaced both pumps and took it for state inspection, they said there is an error code for inverter pump failure which I just replaced. He cleared the code and asked me to drive for 100 miles. Does the code go away automatically when the pump was replaced and it has be erased? There are no lights on the dash.

 

'05 Prius, no smart key. Broken thin single wire at pos terminal.
I broke a wire (accidentally). It was that very thin one with the small white plastic housing that plugs into the pos side of the battery (the black plastic housing).
Could you tell me what that is and what I should do about fixing or not fixing it. If we start there, this could get interesting.

 

Pretty sure that is the voltage sensing line for the inverter circuit that charges the 12v battery. Although there's many ways to jerry rig it, an easy option is to grab one from a salvage yard, just cut the wire far back as you can to make it easy to splice.

That small plug connects to a busbar inside the plastic which connects to the (+) terminal. It also has a 5 amp fuse in the circuit.

It can easily be made to work just by adding a length of wire to the broken wire and then connecting it to the (+) terminal. I wouldn't use it as a permanent repair, but only long enough until you get the piece to fix it properly.

 

That's the voltage sense wire. It lets the DC/DC converter under the hood put out the right voltage for the 12-volt battery, by measuring it right at the battery to sidestep the voltage drops along the current-carrying wires.

If I remember right, a gen 1 would pretty much ignore having that wire disconnected (its converter would just make a reasonable guess what voltage to put out), but a gen 2 cares a little bit more and may set a trouble code. (There is also a 5-amp fuse in that black plastic housing that goes with this sense wire; sometimes people doing a jump backwards will blow that fuse, which of course sets the same code. Sometimes a mechanic will see that trouble code and try to sell you a whole inverter instead of a 5-amp fuse.)

I would pick up the correct repair terminal at a Toyota dealer, splice it to the broken wire, insert it in the plug, plug it back in, make sure the 5-amp fuse is good, and call it a day.

For more on how to get the right terminal and do the splice repair, see, for example, this post.

Yes, picking up the complete plug and adequate length of attached wire from a salvage yard is another way to get it. The mechanics of splicing it on are the same either way.

 

My sense wire just gave up the ghost the other day from all the plugging/unplugging while troubleshooting my recent issues.

I used a dental pick to remove the metal pin tip from its plastic housing, cut a piece of 22AWG solid copper wire w/PVC insulation. stripped the tip, laid it right over top of the old factory (stranded) wire (I couldn't manage to open up the crimp wings without risking damaging the structure/integrity of the delicate pin body itself or stabbing myself), fluxed and soldered the 22AWG solid wire using my TS-100 [portable] iron, threw a couple layers/sizes of heat shrink on, then soldered my home-made pigtail onto the main portion of the sense wire coming out of the harness junction.

Not factory, but should last plenty long for the amount of life my Prius has left in it.

 

Can you identify the wires connected to the plugs?

 

There's only one wire connected to the smaller, voltage-sense wire plug. It's the voltage sense wire.

The single heavy-gauge wire connected to the other, larger plug is what carries the power between the battery and the rest of the car.