TSB EG-0127T-1014 (SW update to avoid cylinderhead gasket failure)

Techstream ($10,000 plus subscription fees) falls into my definition of a fancy OBD scanner. I've got a $40 bluetooth adapter, and an Android phone with a couple of free apps.

That's what I thought about the "shop supplies". Maybe it's what they used to do their inspection I never asked for. Maybe it was the lubricated condom so I didn't feel it when they screwed me.

I guess I'll fire up my adapter, and see what comes out of the phone when I look at it.

 

I found a free OBD2 app that works to get the CALID parameter out of the ECU. I wish I would have done this before scheduling an appointment. I would have been better positioned to know whether I needed this before spending the money, what was available, and whether they actually did the upgrade.

 

The Car Scanner app reads calibration ids for the ecu, bcm and immobilizer. For the rest of the systems it provides a four digit “part number”.



The European tsb adds credence to the thermal cycling and pinging when carboned issues, both easily demonstrated.

 

You must be looking at the full bundle that includes the ruggedized laptop and $500 dongle.

Most people other than a real-busy shop are going to pick up their own beater Windows laptop to download the software on, buy a decent dongle, and just pay a short-term subscription as needed. No need to scare 'em off with a wackadoodle price for something else.

 

There are options to have a full Techstream with online library and ecu reprogramming

1. Toyota sells a Techstream Lite package for $1645 which is a discounted bundle of the Mongoose dongle ($545) and a year of Professional ($1360) level software. You supply a Win 10 laptop.

Professional Diagnostic level is required to access and program the ecu file which is the center of this thread’s discussion.

2. One might think the $545 dongle alone or equivalent and a $70 two day subscription could work.

3. You have the dongle and buy the $70 subscription.

The question then becomes do you want to risk bricking the ecu versus letting a dealer do it for $150 or perhaps finding an independent Toyota shop who has the access and equipment.

 

I don't think I'd be worried about bricking anything just by doing a query for what calibration ID is already in there.

I'd worry more about using the setup to actually try flashing the update. But I didn't think that was the question.

I definitely go to the dealer when I want an update flashed, just so they can be the ones who get to worry about that.

 

Posts 82 and 83 already provided low cost apps for reading the calibration id.

Car Scanner App
Partial

 

My procrastination monster got hit this morning too!

I came to my Toyota dealer for inspection and oil change, but talked to them about the update, sent them the TSB before.

They did the update and I could watch!

The guy told me that there actually are no indications in my car to update, he will do it at my own risk
If something happens to the car, I take the responsibility if I insist on updating.

I insisted and kept my fingers crossed.

Scary moments, as hi did actually nothing to remedy, for example, a bad 12V battery and bricking the car, if it dies in the middle of updating...

It went well.

I have now an updated software in my engine computer and will observe its behavior.
Till now, I did not notice _any_ differences (i drove only something about 30 km).

Mat

PS.
A European Prius.
Previous ID: 34717200
New ID: 34717500
The "Calibration Verification Number - ECM-EngineControl" changed too.

 

That news does not please me, as (at least here in the US) Toyota has released a sequence of TSBs laying out increasingly stringent precautions for reflashing. The latest one that I know of (it is hard to keep up!) is T-SB-0134-16 Rev2, which includes this list:



I try to remember to pull my own fuses for electrical accessories I have added before driving in, as the dealer technicians would not know about them.

 

Oh boy!

Good, that I did not know about most of these precautions!

Now I can say, he dit it "without hands"

My 12V battery is _not_the_best_ - this is, why I kept my fingers crossed...

The AC was off (I switch it usually off before turning the ignition off), but navigation was on.
The hood was closed, the temperature thereunder was below 70 degrees C for sure.
No parking brake.
Maybe he checked the SOC via TechStream - maybe.
No DCA-8000

But - it went OK!
I doubt, he is doing the job for the first time, so, possibly the precautions are _very_ conservative?

Now, as I know, how it should be done, I will think twice, before I let them do anything like updating on my car...

Mat

 

I'm sure the recommendations are conservative.

One big attraction of letting them do the work, whether they follow the conservative precautions or not, is if the ECU doesn't work when they're done, they have the honor of supplying a new one.