Key fob an rear hatch trouble shooting

How are you handling the batteries when you install them? Most people will pick up the battery using their thumb and forefinger with one placed on the negative terminal and the other on the positive terminal. While the resistance through your body between these points is high, it is nevertheless not zero so a short is caused. Ideally, insulated tweezers should used, but careful handling by picking the battery up on the sides (pos) and being careful not to bridge to the top (neg) can work.

I always measure the voltage of new button cell batteries and have found several CR2032 batteries to measure 2.9 to 3.0 V out of the packet, which is nearly flat. Sometimes these are straight from the store and sometimes I've had them sitting in a draw for a while. A new battery should measure 3.3 - 3.4 V if it is to last a long time.

I'm not saying that is your problem, but it is something to consider.

There was a recent post here recently where the hatch rattle issue was solved by shimming the latch receiver. Maybe try and locate that thread.

 

Some of these hatch latches and what not slide on their mounts they'll move a little there's a slightly an adjustment in the body shop some places will even slot the holes on various catches and latches The hatch can also bend look at where your hatch goes from slanting towards the back of the car to the down part where the back little glass is that can actually bend not a lot I mean we're not trying to move it inches to millimeters to make it tighter sometimes hat support struts can be so difficult when you lift the rear of the hatch you rip off the lift plastic that houses the plate lights and all of it You see people driving around with that piece just dangling That's how that got to dangling usually didn't just fall off somebody tried to pull the hatch up and had Coke honey something spilled and got on the hat seal or the hatch lift supports are real tight and rather than grabbing the lip of the metal as you start to open the trunk they pull harder on the plastic and rip it right off That's why you see a lot of those dangling You can spray some liquid slide on the silver shafts of the lift supports and then lift it up and down by the very bottom metal part of the hatch near the latch a few times and see if that helps to stop that and then clicking noises is also can be when people change bulbs and do some work behind the black plastic panel that covers the hatch and the tail lights and all that A lot of times when you lift the hats from closed to up you'll hear something roll down to the other end of the hatch of bulb a nut something that can also rattle when the cars bouncing up and down going down the road over things.

 

How are the buttons on both of the fobs are they able to stay in the depressed position or something are they all screwed up that may be a thing that needs to be looked at I mean if you have SKS maybe depress the SKS button. And see if it dies then because then you're turning off one of the communication systems for the remote and alarm and all that disable everything in the text software the beats the light flashings all of that related to the security and the entrance system and that should make the system use minimal to no power until a button is pushed on the remote or what have you but it sounds like excessive communication calls from the remote to the car and vice versa or buttons are stuck on the remote I imagine the board could be cleaned with contact cleaner Don't know

 

How far away from the car are the fobs being stored ? If in constant communication by being close they will die easy. Had this happening with another car

 

Well that's a generation two whether you have a silverback remote or a black back remote only you can tell they're inexpensive and cheap to get on eBay You can buy used ones that the light still works on them from the seller and program them Do your car as long as you have one working remote in your arsenal this can be accomplished so you want to do this before you screw up all the remotes and you have nothing now might be a good time You don't want to play any of the games and do all the hoopla slide the back off your remote take a picture of the gray sticker on the remote that works take that to a locksmith maybe with your VIN just because and the locksmith worth his salt will be able to get you fixed up with the remote You may not like the price but you know that's the luxury of handing the problem off to someone else for turnkey.

 

Another vote for "check the battery voltage before installing it". I too have encountered "new" batteries which were basically flat. The advice applies pretty much everywhere a battery is used. Were all of these batteries purchased as a batch? They might all be crappy and just fade away quickly.(I once bought a box of 10 brass faucet valve seats which were defective. They worked at first but then in a very short time frame corroded to produce tiny channels water could get through. Drip drip drip. Didn't figure it out until I used one from another source, and that one kept working. )

As for what is draining them...

Is this an SKS system? If so turn that off and see if it makes any difference. (Probably this isn't it, but it is easy).

Carefully take apart the fob. Blow any dust out of it from an oil free source. Make sure the buttons move easily and don't stick in the down position. Clean the electronics with CRC Electronic Cleaner. MAF cleaner should work too if you don't have the former. Especially clean the battery holder. A sufficiently thick layer of scum there can act like a big resistor in line with the battery. If that is what's going on the "failed" batteries will show a higher than "dead" voltage, but probably less than fully charged. That's another reason not to touch the battery with your fingers - the finger oil is transferred to the holder. Finger oil can corrode some surfaces, and at the very least, it attracts dust. Reassemble. Be careful that the little RFID chip doesn't fall out and get lost or the fob won't work.