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Key fob an rear hatch trouble shooting

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Dummy, May 4, 2024.

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  1. Dummy

    Dummy Member

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2019
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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    I've currently got two issues that are annoying me

    1 - Both of my key fobs are draining the battery every 30 to 40 days. It's been going on for about 6 months now. I've tried both Duracell and Energizer, but it doesn't matter which brand I use. I'll go to the car and the fob is dead, so I go back to get the spare fob and it's dead too. I'll buy a two pack of batteries and replace them in both fobs at the same time. It's strange that both of them are draining at the same rate while one of them is used daily and the other is left in the house the entire time.

    2 - My rear hatch is rattling while driving. I've read that it could be the lift assist cylinders but mine lift the hatch just fine. I haven't done any troubleshooting yet other than search this site. Is there anything I should check before replacing the cylinders?


    Thoughts appreciated
     
  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    How are you handling the batteries when you install them? Most people will pick up the battery using their thumb and forefinger with one placed on the negative terminal and the other on the positive terminal. While the resistance through your body between these points is high, it is nevertheless not zero so a short is caused. Ideally, insulated tweezers should used, but careful handling by picking the battery up on the sides (pos) and being careful not to bridge to the top (neg) can work.

    I always measure the voltage of new button cell batteries and have found several CR2032 batteries to measure 2.9 to 3.0 V out of the packet, which is nearly flat. Sometimes these are straight from the store and sometimes I've had them sitting in a draw for a while. A new battery should measure 3.3 - 3.4 V if it is to last a long time.

    I'm not saying that is your problem, but it is something to consider.
    There was a recent post here recently where the hatch rattle issue was solved by shimming the latch receiver. Maybe try and locate that thread.
     
    #2 dolj, May 5, 2024
    Last edited: May 5, 2024
    Dummy likes this.
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Some of these hatch latches and what not slide on their mounts they'll move a little there's a slightly an adjustment in the body shop some places will even slot the holes on various catches and latches The hatch can also bend look at where your hatch goes from slanting towards the back of the car to the down part where the back little glass is that can actually bend not a lot I mean we're not trying to move it inches to millimeters to make it tighter sometimes hat support struts can be so difficult when you lift the rear of the hatch you rip off the lift plastic that houses the plate lights and all of it You see people driving around with that piece just dangling That's how that got to dangling usually didn't just fall off somebody tried to pull the hatch up and had Coke honey something spilled and got on the hat seal or the hatch lift supports are real tight and rather than grabbing the lip of the metal as you start to open the trunk they pull harder on the plastic and rip it right off That's why you see a lot of those dangling You can spray some liquid slide on the silver shafts of the lift supports and then lift it up and down by the very bottom metal part of the hatch near the latch a few times and see if that helps to stop that and then clicking noises is also can be when people change bulbs and do some work behind the black plastic panel that covers the hatch and the tail lights and all that A lot of times when you lift the hats from closed to up you'll hear something roll down to the other end of the hatch of bulb a nut something that can also rattle when the cars bouncing up and down going down the road over things.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    How are the buttons on both of the fobs are they able to stay in the depressed position or something are they all screwed up that may be a thing that needs to be looked at I mean if you have SKS maybe depress the SKS button. And see if it dies then because then you're turning off one of the communication systems for the remote and alarm and all that disable everything in the text software the beats the light flashings all of that related to the security and the entrance system and that should make the system use minimal to no power until a button is pushed on the remote or what have you but it sounds like excessive communication calls from the remote to the car and vice versa or buttons are stuck on the remote I imagine the board could be cleaned with contact cleaner Don't know
     
  5. Pioneerscot

    Pioneerscot Junior Member

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    How far away from the car are the fobs being stored ? If in constant communication by being close they will die easy. Had this happening with another car