Engine swap Trouble codes

About one year ago I bought a 2012 prius with a blown head gasket and swapped that engine out for a JDM engine (see here) and after diagnosing running rough as counterfeit plugs it has been running great.

2 weeks ago I bought a 2011 prius, this time with legit holes in the engine due to a head gasket failure followed by hydro lock in cylinder #1. I got another JDM engine and looked it over inside and out. To me the cylinders seemed to have very little carbon, and the oil I drained out was in good condition. The EGR cooler was still really clean (could see light through it) so I went ahead and dropped it in yesterday.

I finished hooking everything up this morning, and just pressed the start button. The engine ran really smoothly for the first few seconds, but then got very rough. The car said "check hybrid system" and "oil maintenance soon".

When I scan it I get several codes:

Permanent:
P3190 Poor Engine Power
P3191 Engine does not start

Others:
U0073 Control Communication with Bus "A" Off
U0123 Lost Communication with Yaw Rate sensor Module
U0124 Lost Communication with Lateral Acceleration Sensor Module
U0126 Lost Communication with Steering Angle Sensor Module
U0293 Lost Communication with Hybrid/EV Powertrain Control Module

When I bought the car it had the p3190 already. I did not scan all the modules, so it could have had the U0XXX ones as well.

I of course am wondering "Did I plug everything back in?" I did take my time with hooking things up, and I have done this once before. From the top of the engine I can't see anything that is disconnected. I am using the plugs, coils, and injectors from the JDM engine. The condition of the plugs looked fine to me, and they looked legit, but I of course have been fooled before. I DID put oil in the engine, something that I somehow forgot to do on the one last year and quickly realized my mistake. If the oil pump did not work it would say "low oil pressure" right?

The communication codes make me think that there is some kind of ECU or electrical issue. This did sit for about 9 months before I bought it. I just put in a new 12V battery

 

Ok, so I tested the 12V voltage, 12.6 so that's fine. I disconnected it for an hour or so. I started it again, ran rough. I thought that maybe something was up with the EGR valve, so I did the putty knife trick. Started again, ran rough....for like 15sec and then started to even out and became pretty smooth. Turned off and on and this time no real issues! I took the putty knife out and still ran fine, even turning off and on. I ran in maintenance mode for about 10min without a problem. YAY! I think the putty knife was a red herring, and that some other part of the car needed to be reset/get used to an engine without literal holes in it. Fingers crossed for a smooth sail from here! I do wonder if those communication codes will resurface, and then I will be back for thoughts!

 

So everything still seems to be going well with the car, but the communication codes are still there. Does anyone have any ideas of where to start with them? The noticeable things are that the smart key does not let me unlock the rear hatch by touching the button on the garnish, and that when I press the lock or unlock buttons on the remote the car does not beep at me, I just hear the physical locks moving.

 

All connections were good from the get-go.

Interesting thought about the injectors. I thought about low pressure, but popped off the gas line near the engine to check, and there was plenty of gas that sprayed out!

I remember reading somewhere about the ECU needing 10 reboots to reset something, and that sounds like about the number of times I turned it on and off. I can't say anything for sure, but that is the best explanation I can come up with at this point.

 

The U0 codes are still there, but it does not seem to affect anything so I guess I will leave them?

Here is more of a writeup for this car, followed by a question for you all.

The original engine had a head gasket leak, and then hydro locked and the rod was eventually blown to pieces. I will be taking it apart in my garage. Please enjoy the pic of the coolant coming out of the oil pan. I put in the new engine, and it runs great now. Before I put it in I scoped each cylinder, and it was the cleanest pistons I have ever seen. There was no sign of any fluid at the gasket or scoring on the walls either. I took off the EGR cooler, and it was still pretty clean. Carbon bulidup yes, but I could still see a lot of light through it. I put on a cooler and intake I had already cleaned.

The transmission bolts gave me a run for my money. I broke the bottom 3, two at the heads and one where the engine meets the transmission. Yes, I used penetrating oil and MAPP gas. It's a lot of thread to loosen, but I was unable to. I got the engine out and then tried to get one of the broken studs out with vise grips and heat. That one broke off. I then drilled one all the way out and re-tapped, and the other one I was able to drill out and tap about half way (drill bit broke too). I left the third as an extra alignment stud. I figure that 1.5 bolts and an alignment pin would be fine for that connection.



The HV fan was the dirtiest I have seen. I reconditioned the HV pack with a grid charger while I was in there.



I hedged my bets with the water pump, and bought a new impeller from Dasbecan on Amazon. I am reusing the housing from the old engine. I installed a scangauge and will show my friend how to use it. Never let that temp number get above 205ºF!



The brakes seemed to clean off fine from some driving, and the tires have a good amount of life left in them. I expect it to pass inspection tomorrow.

I used woolwax to undercoat the car and tie wire as "temporary" fixes for some failed exhaust hanger welds. Also, I used the bottom of same coke cans as big washers to hold up the heat shield that is mounted above the catalytic converter. There is another heat shield back above the muffler, but it is missing the ones in between. I found a picture on this thread, and I am missing the one starting over the resonator and the one with the elbow around the gas tank.



My question for you all is: should I try to run down these heat shields and install them? Is the car fine without them? I am glad that there is at least one above the Cats. The pipe does pass by the plastic gas tank in a way that is a little close for comfort.

Also, could someone tell me how to change the title of this thread to "2011 Engine Swap and Restoration"?