Starting this as a new thread. This is going to try to be as "Step by Step" as possible. Also so I can look back if I need to. Everything "small" is being put in ziplock backs and being labeled with a sharpie. Day One: 1. Start with removing battery plug and disconnect the aux battery (10 mm on the wall of the car) 2. Moved the lock of the hatchback so that it will not lock 3. Disconnect bolts holding hood and line for windshield wipers (12 mm) Note that when I tried to replace the hood before I put a plumbing fixture in to make it easy to remove 4. Remove wiper arms (14 mm) The double one you need to wiggle around a little to get it off. Prying does not really work. Wiggle it 5. Remove plastic cover on windshield wiper "tray." Came off easy. 6. Disconnect the wiring harness to the wiper motor assembly and remove bolts holding motor in (10 mm) Remove plastic clip from wiper motor "tray" Wiper motor should come out easy 7. Remove bolts holding relay box on tray (10 mm), remove clips holding relay box to tray, and then tray on (10 mm). Should come off easy once bolts are removed. Waiting on the electrical system to drain completely so covered engine compartment with plastic so that no water, or at least little water, gets in the engine compartment. Going to try to do just a little a day.
This is cool I want to see engine n trans split whilst in car . Haven't had to do this gen2 yet on a keeper in my junker w trans in position in car and engine hanging from boom and front mount removed pass side. I still couldn't get enuff room to slide engine to pas side to let go of trans output shaft. Sucked . So on this junk car I undid trans. But in my keeper I'm always hoping not to drop trans. But I've not looked at any vids or anything but looking at it quickly I saw trouble . Maybe undoing trans mount at driver side w jack under and tilting trans output side towards over pass fender at angle not there's enough room for that angle . I just hate to disconnect suspension . But if I have 2
The insulation is falling off the underside of metal wiper tray where it is over the engine. I worry about fragments falling in the spark plug openings when I am working there. I think I can use my 2009 tray but what is the next best option? Remove the insulation completely?
I removed mine completely after it fell apart. I would think it would quiet engine noise a bit... But I havent had one on our white Prius for 4 years now.
Day Two: 1. Removed air box. Two 10 mm screws on engine. When I last removed the air box, the hose clamps were not worth trying to reuse so replaced with new ones. If you are reusing the old ones, may need a lot of PB Blaster first. Wire harness holding the MAF sensor. Used a pick to get it loose. Spraying down the bolts / screws to the MAF sensor in hopes of replacing the screws. 2. Disconnected fuel injector and coil connectors. 3. Disconnect wire harness in front of brake fluid reservoir. I don't think it connects to it but the position 4. Unbolted, slid out intake manifold Five bolts, all 12 mm. Sprayed them down heavily with PB Blaster. The outer ones however will need a deep socket to remove. Of note, the two hoses that go into the manifold just use butterfly type clips. The bolt on the driver's side was crazy to get to and why it took so long. Could have likely just removed the two hoses and gotten to it far easier. Also like 100 degrees outside. Ended up prying a bit with a large screwdriver to get the intake manifold off. Some wires still are attaching the intake but have not removed yet. I removed a clip holding the wire to the driver's side of a bracket on the intake manifold and then that bracket to get to the driver's side of the intake manifold. 10 mm holding bracket and royal pain to get to. What you do that is pry outward on the other side of where the hose / wire bundle is. Removed wire harness on passenger side of manifold. Carefully used need nose pliers to unlock. Fourth image is really blurry Stopped at that point. Covered engine with plastic and put away my tools. A few questions 1. Using a video. Not trying to overwhelm myself by watching the whole thing. Will I be removing the fuel rail at some point? Will I want to use these fuel injectors. Not had any problems with the old ones from the 2009 but these are just rebuild. I am planning to replace the spark plugs of the replacement engine when I get there. 2. I assume that I want a new intake manifold gasket but just checking? 3. May actually be crazy but can I put the engine hoist in the back of the ranger instead of on plywood? Thinking then once the engine is out, could just drive forward with it.
Yer hoist should pick up engine enuff to push car back . Or this hoist I'm using swivels 280 or so degrees once engines up I swing it from front of car to beside it by pushing on the beam. .
Day Three: Yesterday it was my birthday, so wanted to spent one day not working on things. Did not study either. Studying for a cyber security certificate with planned test day of first week or second week of July. Felt that Wednesday I did not do enough pictures, so trying to do better today Also saw that the video I have been following completely removed the manifold / throttle body. Better picture of the top of the engine with the manifold loose 1. Disconnect this black and red wiring harness connector 2. Disconnected lower hose clamp on manifold / throttle body on engine side of throttle body 3. Trying to remove oil dipstick pipe but actually broke off near the pan. Hose in the way but needed to remove the hose anyway. Passenger front side of manifold / throttle body Ended up mangling it when getting it off so likely try to replace with a screw on hose clamp if I can get it to fit Note, started leaking some kind of red looking fluid after removal. Can see it in the picture for #4. Put pan under car to catch it. Does anyone know what the fluid is? 4. Removed oil dipstick pipe from exhaust manifold / throttle body (10 mm bolt) 5. Removed white wire harness connector from driver's side of exhaust manifold / throttle body. 6. Unbolted wire harness from driver's side of exhaust manifold / throttle body. Some one as white connector (10 mm bolt) 7. Released wire harness that is kind of under exhaust manifold / throttle body. Driver's side I believe 8. Disconnected hose clamp on driver's side front of manifold / throttle body 9. Bolt holding wire harness on passenger side of manifold / throttle body Picture is not great but look later picture of location. Removed bolt (10 mm) 10. Removed plastic clip holding final wire harness on manifold / throttle body Passenger side Engine compartment with no manifold / throttle body Put away my tools and covered up engine at this stage Only about 50 minutes of work but need to review next steps first
Day Four: Another short day due to working last night and working tonight as well Need to get sleep for work tonight. This website is also the journal for what I am doing however so want to post this. I do figure it may help others though. 1. Pushed the plastic shield out of the way. Released Hose that goes to back side of driver's side of engine block that came from the throttle body. Also released the hose that went to the front side of drives side of engine block. Labeled both hoses with tape. 90 degree angle side goes to engine side. There is a plastic clip that was loose and while I suspect it held the two hoses together under the plastic but not 100% sure. I guess check carefully for that clip when taking out the second engine. 2. Removed bolt holding wire harness to upper part of engine. (10 mm bolt) 3. Removed clip holding fuel line on - Do I use an easy connect / disconnect to remove the fuel line? 4. Removed wire harness from driver's side of engine 5. Four bolts holding grounds and or wiring to driver's side of engine. Removed the four as well but had issues getting pictures due to being pretty cramped. When I remove the second one, I will at least show where the socket was. (10 mm bolts) Called in for dinner at that point so put away tools and covered engines Questions 1. Is the fuel line disconnected with a quick disconnect? Know what size if so? 2. Will I be able to tell where the ground wires go by where they can reach to or will I have an issue. Reconnecting them in that enclosed space is going to be a pain in any case