User Danica posted this dealer's test of her 12V battery apparently done on a DCA-8000 tester. At 96F 12.37V is below 50% SOC. If I'm reading this right they pushed 16.2 Ah into it (Ah Replaced) in 54 minutes (Charge Time), which works out to 18A or 0.4C exactly. The thing is, these batteries aren't supposed to be charged over 4.2 A, it says so right on the battery. In any case, assuming my math and interpretation of these fields isn't off, how come the dealer can push 18A into one of these batteries but nobody else is supposed to use even 1/4 that much current?
How much did they charge you? The amount of output a battery can handle isn't much different the amount of input it can hanlde, at least in short bursts. Can you post a photo of where it says not to charge over 4.2A ? Because most chargers at an auto shop that are on wheeled carts can pump out more than 120amps when needed and my 10amp and 20amp smart chargers have sensors to only pump out what the battery can handle and during much of the charging it's pumping max amps.
It also states that the battery plates are sulfated or there's a sulfation issue I didn't think that went on in AGM ?
It wasn't me, this was user Danica who posted it in another thread. The DCA-8500's manual is here: https://www.midtronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/167-000837EN-A-DCA-8000-Charger-Instruction-Manual-Midtronics-SM.pdf but it never defines "Ah replaced", just shows it on the example outputs. Here is a link to the sticker on a Yuasa battery (same battery I believe): https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/ddrWoS4xb64aIPjR.large and here is the same battery but branded as TrueStart It says: That limit is peculiar since AGM batteries are normally fine charging at higher rate than a flooded battery, as long as the charging voltage is kept within specs.
AGM sulfates too, supposedly less of a problem than in flooded. The flooded battery method of boiling to remove those crystals won't work on an AGM battery though.
Friends shop has the 8000 it monitors battery in full auto mode he does nothing pretty much . Battery fails it reds up bigly.
It can be run with manual settings (page 35 of manual) to restrict current. Whether any shops actually do that though is another matter.
An amusing aside, check out this pair of videos from Yuasa. The first is how to fill their (motorcycle) batteries, the second how to maintain them. These gave me an odd vibe because the set consists of an odd assortment of tool boxes, and even what looks like a chemical glovebox, but there isn't a hand tool to be seen. The only objects on the work surfaces are those that have been carefully staged there for the video. There are a few motorcycles around, carefully posed. Everything is spotless, like it has never been used. Anyway, in the second video at 3:50 they pull out one of those cheap POS Harbor Freight voltmeters to test the battery, the kind HF used to give away for free. Really? Serious battery company can't spring for a Fluke or even a Uni-T? I have used a lot of those HF voltmeters (hey, they were free!) and the probes always break in short order. The one here works though, probably because they picked it up at the HF on the way to the shoot!
