Blown Fuse on Negative Battery Terminal.

First off, do you know what caused the fuse to blow and have you corrected the fault?

If so, the main part you are looking for is:
82620-47140 - Block Assembly, Fusible Link ($31.32 MSRP)

Block Assembly, Fusible Link

 

Okay. Just checking because so many people want to keep swapping in new fuses when they blow instead of searching for WHY they are blowing.

The part number is for the whole black plastic section with both fuses. You'll have to remove all three nuts, then swap in the new part.


And don't worry about being a dumb***. I was right there with you a few weeks ago. I was fixing a friend's hair dryer in my car(long story) and I wanted to test it after the work was done. I had a small inverter in the car, so I figured I'd plug the hair dryer in and see if it worked. Yeah, didn't bother to check wattages/amps. I tried to pull 1800W through a 175W inverter plugged into the 12V power port. And I was confused when the hair dryer and inverter stopped working. lol

There was a 10A fuse in the inverter and a 10A fuse for the power port under the dash. Guess which one decided to blow?

 

I have a variable-heat heat gun that's 1100 watts at full power, but has a continuous adjustment knob on the back and does variable PWM control of the heat. I thought one time that if I just kept it dialed down far enough so the macro power draw was within my 700 W inverter's limits, it might be ok. Anyway, the inverter had a power display on the front and was supposed to shut down if it detected an overload.

Apparently that doesn't apply to a PWM load where the ON pulses were 1100 watts, even as brief as they were. The inverter never had time to show any overload or auto shut down, it just let the magic smoke right out. No simple fuse replacement for that.