Coolant loss- any connection to a fuel injector

Ah, but also a measurement of compressors capacity is pressure, so that’s air volume/time unit (normally one minute), that would end up at apx 4.5 bar/65 PSI (minute volume). Correct? That’s good enough.

 

Most people who are cleaning the coolers are first using some kind of solvent, then blowing it out with a pressure washer before finally spraying air to make the passages completely dry. Merv and many others have used wires to disengage the carbonized dust from the passages. To date I have not found a wire that works for me.

In the used JDM cooler I bought from ebay, every little passage has a slanted metal plate inside it dividing the the passage into two triangles. I do not know if that's the standard design but it makes it harder to insert wires in there. I will report back once I receive my brand new cooler today.

 

Yep, I am aware and also considered this. But as soon as you add liquid to this ash it’s much harder to blow out (with air).

 

The cooler can be clogged with a hard sticky material if the engine is burning oil. Otherwise it is fine. A good gen3 engine will show no observable oil loss in 5k miles. An oil burner can be fixed with pistons and rings demonstrated thousands of times under warranty.

A wire chucked on a drill does work on the serious sticky oil residue.

 

Can you provide the gauge or example of the type of wire you used for this purpose? A link would be very helpful.

 

A good G3 engine will therefore not have oily residue in the EGR cooler.

 

Guess I’m an outlier: dipstick never budges, and when I clean the EGR valve, cooler, pipe and the intake manifold (twice now), the “ash” is closer to anthracite coal, lol.

 

My 2012 Two has 142.5K miles. I bought it just a little over 1K miles ago. So far, my oil level has not dropped any at all and I am hoping the streak continues.

 

Yeah, until partway through model year 2014, they’ve got low tension piston rings. Kinda like being born with a heart defect.

 

I did it many moons ago (maybe 120 moons kemosahbee) but it was something like a thin clothes hanger wire - stiff but still flexible enough to make a slight bend.

Chucked in a drill, you literally bore through the gunk. Start with a short piece and progress to 2/3 length.

This was after several days in a professional parts cleaner failed and we simply bought a new one.

The clogged cooler was later cleaned by rotating wire followed by solvents over many more days as a passion project (it will not and did not defeat me!).

It found a new home on the next gen3 needing one - recovering most of the new cooler's cost. The cleaning labor was a sunk cost, something most shops can't afford to charge for and keep customers when a new one is 1.5 hours labor and much more efficient. Plus no lye in the eye.

 

Do you have to remove the head to

I haven't used that type of clothes hanger in a long time, but if memory serves right, those wires were pretty thick. I did have some luck inserting a picture frame hanging wire (the thinnest I could find) in there, but it bends too easily and it might break if I try rotating it inside. That would be a terrible thing to happen.

 

I found regular cable TV wire about the right gauge. There's a "heavier duty" version, and it was slightly too thick.

 

Hmm, what is that? Sounds dry to me.

If the deposits are dry thru the entire passage into the intake, then the PCV system works as intended indeed.