Dreaded P0A80 Code - Car Running / Charging Good.

So after getting this car last week, I was driving today and coming to a light the “Check Hybrid System” came on along with the TOD, VSA and CEL lights. I have an Autel AP200 dongle specifically for Toyota and when looking up the HV battery / block voltage values, all 14 were very similar hovering around 16 and 17v. It also had a 0 under “times battery very low” or “very high”.

I am new to reading HV battery readings and as mentioned above, bought an AP200 (recommended by another user to buy) and have Dr. Prius app installed on my ipad. I have looked up a few other threads on here about this very common code but symptoms all appear to fluctuate. The weird thing is the car is running good, charging and holding a charge in what appears to be normal fashion. I thought to check the hybrid fan 1st but I am in unfamiliar territory with the HV batteries and will need to rely on other posts and youtube videos for now.

A little on the car:
- 2015
- 260k
- 12v Battery Replaced right before i bought it
- HV battery original or replacement or service unknown
- History showed P0300,P0302, P0303 and P0304 codes when I ran a check but CEL off and monitors incomplete (most likely due to the battery replacement).
- Car had a Multi Point Inspection at Toyota prior to sale and NO mention of failing or HV battery or current issues/codes, only random things like brakes and struts etc.
- The History codes are now gone and only P0A80 is now current code.

Lastly, I apparently saved a PDF copy of the live data for the HV battery on the Autel App but cannot figure out how to access the file as it is not under my downloads or anywhere when searching and the app wont show a saved pdf file folder.

I appreciate all the help or direction.

 

I bought it from a private party. So, usually those sales are AS-IS sales here in CA unless stated otherwise. I have been reviewing some videos and looks like the testing for the HV batteries is extensive using apps like dr. prius etc.

 

I will do that next and report

 

At this point I dont have a significant budget towards battery replacement. If determined that it needs a new battery, I would need to hold off on it for a few months if that.

I recall when my transmission went out on my gen 2, after replacing it and fixing it. The P0A80 came on as well but I was not having issues with the battery. After resetting codes, it did not come back on and it's been 5-6k miles since. So this is the reason why I dont jump directly to assuming my battery is bad until I do a bit more research.

Also, never used the Dr. Prius app but can I use my AP200 as a VCI for the app or do I need something else to connect it from my ipad to car.

 

I see, they did report to replace the 12v battery but not HV. I guess the MPI means nothing when it comes to the serious codes then.

 

Thats def true, they dont troubleshoot they just replace. Well I look forward to to taking all the help you can to help me figure this one out as unlike most mechanical issues, this is uncharted territory for me. Do you suggest i look into the battery fan possibly being dirty? I ask since some say it can cause the p0A80 code and others say it wont,.

 

I went ahead and took the back apart to get to the Hybrid battery fan and wasnt too dirty, as if it had ben cleaned before. I also noticed the 12v battery terminals were loose and not properly seated and a new 12v Duracell battery as well as the vent tube was not connected. I seated them and tightened them as well as reinstalled the vent tube. Also, found 2 loose bolts loose and 2 missing 10mm nuts.

Nothing out of the ordinary but did not go into taking the battery apart, I did remove the orange safety plug and reinstalled it for safe sake and all was well. Came back, started the car and erased the code and drove the car around the block, felt a bit stronger but could just be a placebo effect from having taken stuff apart and reinstalled. I also have the Autel Report which I will attach below of when the P0A80 code came on.

One is the freeze frame data and the other the live data

 

1. My 1st observations of the report are that the voltages range from 12.71 V (Block 08) to 14.47 V (Block 07). This is a difference of about 1.76 V.
2. Block 08 (12.71 V) and Block 05 (13.23 V) are particularly low compared to the others
3. A quick search pointed out since the Delta SOC is 6, could cause damage to the overall battery. I have heard of “balancing” the batteries, is that a task one can perform with the battery on the car? If not, can the process still be done as a DIY or only by a shop with specific equipment and what type of cost is one looking at for such “maintanance”?

I hope im not getting ahead of myself.

 

Wow, So I assume the battery has to come out for this “prolong” device to be hooked up? I will have to look into one of those. Are they pricey?