Hoping someone can help me out here.. I’ve been watching all the videos online and following along the nutsaboutbolts on Yoruba for a head gasket replacement. Everything was going well, but during the reinstall, when I was torquing the first cam bolt, it snapped! Fortunately I was able to back it out but I’m not positive what the part number is for the replacement (2012 Prius V) I did use new head bolts but none of the guides online mentioned purchasing new cam bolts (the 17 gold bolts holding the camshaft cap) 1. Should I purchase all new bolts? 2. Does anyone know the Toyota part numbers for the 16 long bolts, and the 1 short bolt? thank you in advance, this forum has been a lifesaver.
1. I would just replace the broken bolt. 2. For replacement bolt see schema 2/2 (near bottom of page) here: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-usa/prius/ZVW30L/13502/engine/1104 note: the link is to a regular, 2012, US, hatchback Prius. I believe yours is a Prius v? As far as I know the cylinder head is identical, but you could confirm by entering part no and your VIN on Toyota USA parts site.
Just replace the cam bolt you mite find at tractor supply . Not mission critical . Just a bolt. As you found out . Junk yard . A shop floor etc .
What torque value? Screen grab from last link in my signature*: * on a phone turn it landscape to see signatures
If you don't get the specific bolt from Toyota, make sure to get the same length and grade so it'll stand up to the same torque conditions.
Thank you so much! I was torquing to 20ft lbs. I’m thinking my torque wrench was off or malfunctioning. Just ordered a new one as well so hopefully it won’t happen again.
I cannot believe that anything in the vague ball park of 20lbs of torque would twist one of those bolts off..... Wow. Agree with new torque wrench. Are you new to this stuff? I ask because most of us who have "wrenched" for a while have a approximate idea of how tight to tighten a bolt and when too much is too much. Not accusing you of being dumb, but experience has its perks........
no offense taken my experience has been limited to brakes/struts/spark plugs in the past. Honestly it never felt like the bolt hit any resistance.. I think part of the problem is that the loaner torque wrench I have is this huge 24” breaker bar type and even setting it as low as 20ft lbs was difficult (first marked setting was 25) . I’ve since ordered a smaller 5-45 ft lb torque wrench. Fingers crossed it’s smooth sailing from here.
A Sears employee told me years ago, you don’t want to use a torque wrench near its extremes. 1/2” drives are good for wheel lug nuts, suspensions. 3/8” have lower range, appropriate for brakes, oil changes, and 1/4” (typically incremented inch-pounds, values 12 fold of foot-pounds) are for spark plugs, throttle body hold-down bolts, battery connections. I’ve had a 1/2” drive for about 40 years, but in the last decade acquired 3/8” and 1/4”. Made in China, decent quality/accuracy, are about $30~40 CDN. I’ve “tested” them by clamping the fulcrums in a vice, arms horizontally, suspending known weight at calculated distance along the handle, and all 3 where surprisingly accurate. There’s “factors” too, well oiled threads for example, will turn (and tension) more. did you note in pic I posted above, there’s 20 and 12 foot-pound values? Thelong versus short apparently. You’re more familiar than me, having dealt with these; I’d gather the two kinds of bolts serve different purposes?