battery reassemble problem

You can stand the battery up vertically, then put the bottom plate on. it'll be much easier

 

You do realize the white clamps are bolted to frame of battery. My rebuilder guy doesn't put those screws back in the bottom those 56 or whatever it are those tiny little things those are the ones that will get to penetrating the plastic getting you iso faults . This is especially prevalent on modules that have been through cycles a few times . I've two setups like this now . Been rear ended nothing shifted . I looked very carefully . Before this we dropped a fubar gen2 off a 12 foot fork lift on its roof the HV battery did not move 4 bolts in case to frame and the 4 nylon corners of clamps bolted . The 56 lil screws not in place . We called it good car destroyed

 

Your battery rebuilder has a lack of understanding of the "why" the battery is built as it is. And although there are 4 threaded studs, the white clamps have provision for only two nuts, unless you modify them. Those nuts effectively do nothing for the integrity of the module pack.
Those small fasteners on the bottom are what make the case a structural part of keeping the module pack in alignment.
If you start getting any significant swelling, your pack will buckle upward and rip itself apart. Those small fasteners are what prevent that from happening by making the baseplate...well, ........a baseplate.

It's really just not that hard to do something right. Try it someday.....

 

Very cool when we dropped the thing from 12 ft none of it budged so good for us . Those screws on bottom will get at some point . Screwing into soft plastic Oy.

 

Don't the screws go into threaded metal inserts?

 

I don't think so it looks straight into plastic to me and my battery thinks same . I've gotta module in hand a good one . If I can find a bad I'll scrape the plastic and see if metal under plastic . But I don't see silver or gold color just grey looking sched 80nplastic look

 

Don't the screws go into threaded metal inserts?

Yes, they certainly do. And if someone doesn't know that answer, yet claim to know about the HV batteries, well, not much good to say about that.

 

Gen 1, Gen 2, Gen 3, Gen 4, Gen 5 NiMH modules all have steel threaded inserts on the bottom for those fasteners. Gen 1 has two, one on each end. The other Gens have only one, under the positive terminal end of the module. Since the modules interlock, there is no real advantage to having two on each module. here's a photo.

 

All I know is they get compromised and they leak and then iso fault . If nothing's they're I imagine it cannot leak .

 

It's a compression pack. You charge them while they were not compressed. If you compress them now you risk a fire.

 

No I don't think that's correct. My battery guy say discharge and charge racked . And monitor your temperatures don't let anything get to running away . In usually charging my whole pack 310V 2400Ma. Usually the pack is sitting at about 116 to 120° and the voltage has stopped taking for 5 minutes the pack is full disconnect . If I'm going to discharge I let it cool down to almost room temperature before I start discharging. I saw a guy one time charge them out of the nylon brackets and try n reclamp no go . Was ugly

 

Dropped in a salvage yard from a John Deere yard forklift arm 12 feet in air . I did it personally . Along with other silly things like blasting a part struts with no spring compressors all. Very uneventful . Even girls tried it .

 

The modules have to be compressed when you charge/discharge them. If you don't, they will heat up and swell and get damaged or leak.

 

That's a typo. He meant it to read:

It's a compression pack. You charged them while they were not compressed. If you compress them now, you risk a fire.