2018 Prius 3 engine vibration on decel and low throttle input

Discussion in 'Gen 4 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by michaud85, Apr 19, 2026 at 6:30 AM.

  1. michaud85

    michaud85 Member

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    Just bought a decent gen 4 with 81k miles. Drives great for the most part. When you accelerate to speed and then take foot off the throttle 95% of the way and hover rpm just above where the ICE is on, the engine will vibrate if you hold it right above the transition zone. In ev mode and at higher acceleration it drives well.

    I was thinking of cleaning intake manifold ports, egr pipe and egr valve and skipping the cooler (it looks like you have to move the inverter)

    I also thought maybe spark plugs but AI said it’s most likely not spark plugs because it would show symptoms through the full rpm range and to try cleaning the egr system.

    only posting because I saw on here that some people don’t have egr problems even at 300k

    coolant was at the low line when I bought it, just topped it off and drove about 200 miles yesterday for the first time.

    57 mpg average over the 200 miles.
    Edit:

    just saw another post where it’s doing the same thing. He replaced his egr valve at just 40k miles. Neither of my scan tools can detect if the egr valve is stuck open. So I need to buy a third smh

    I’m going to buy all the gaskets and try cleaning EGR valve. It may be sticking from sitting around on the lot
     
    #1 michaud85, Apr 19, 2026 at 6:30 AM
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2026 at 8:57 AM
  2. michaud85

    michaud85 Member

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    @BiomedO1 this is my thread and I dont have any check engine codes or pending codes.
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    There is no scan tool that will tell you whether the valve is sticking open. You have to use other diagnostic skills for that.

    If you have roughness continuing at idle, when the EGR valve is supposed to be fully closed, that could be a reason to think the valve might be sticking open.

    If you have roughness that goes away at idle and at heavy load, both times when EGR is off, but the roughness is present at light/mid loads when EGR is meant to happen, then probably the valve is doing what it should, but the four EGR passages in the intake manifold are clogged up differently. That specific symptom pattern is pretty much pathognomonic of that.
     
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  4. michaud85

    michaud85 Member

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    Thanks for taking the time to read and respond. I assumed the PID for stepper motor position would tell me whether the Valve was moving or stuck in one place. I was planning on getting the computer that allows you to actuate the valve while reading the position.

    I will move forward with my plan to clean the Intake and passages this evening and take a look at the buildup in the EGR pipe and on the EGR Valve and report back.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It won't. The way a stepper motor works is you know where you think it is to start with, and then you send it a certain number of steps one way or the other, and keep track of how many steps you sent, so you know where you think it is now.

    The ECM keeps track of that by sending more than 110 steps in the 'close' direction when it wants the valve to be closed. The full range of travel is 110 steps, so by sending that many 'close' steps, the ECM assumes the valve got to fully closed, no matter where it started, and then steps counted from there will be known positions. If the valve is sticking, they'll just be wrong. That's not something you'll know from looking at the ECM's step count.

    There is no sensor on the valve that reports back its position, or tells you for sure it did or didn't step when you stepped it just now.
     
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  6. michaud85

    michaud85 Member

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    IMG_0778.jpeg

    @ChapmanF Took the intake out, the four EGR ports are very clean. I will still clean them but I’m not sure these are the problem though I was hoping they were.

    I took the actuator off and the EGR valve moves easily and springs back to closed no problem.

    EGR pipe sooty and dry

    Throttle body extremely clean.

    After I clean the intake I’ll put it back together and try driving with EGR system unplugged to see if it still shakes.

    if it does I will replace spark plugs and coils…
     

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    #6 michaud85, Apr 19, 2026 at 6:54 PM
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2026 at 12:22 AM
  7. michaud85

    michaud85 Member

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    alright I put it back together and it’s idling terribly, I know for sure PcV valve is connected on both sides. Not sure if maybe there’s still some intake cleaner in there. Supposed to dry out quickly. Maybe some coolant got on one of the lower sensors from the throttle body drippage.

    when I turned the car back on it said ICS unavailable And then when it started it was idling rough as hell. I wonder if my 12v battery is causing issues.

    is it possible to put the EGR actuator back together incorrectly? I just popped it off and pushed it down making sure it moved freely.

    tried running with EGR disconnected and that seemed to make it worse.

    I never tried running for more than 10 second, all I did was back out of the garage.

    Looking online it says it’s fairly common to have rough idle after battery disconnect and to try to let the car warm up. I didn’t want to cause any damage to the engine so I didn’t try that yet
     
    #7 michaud85, Apr 20, 2026 at 12:24 AM
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2026 at 5:46 AM
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    There’s been no reports here of carbon-clogging with gen 4 EGR, one report, an owner had Tampa Hybrids clean the EGR with over 300k miles: it was a waste of time, only light carbon. The 4th gen EGR system has crucial revisions, with what they learned from the half-baked, gen 3 implementation
     
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  9. michaud85

    michaud85 Member

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    I can verify this as well at 80k miles the valves are still shiny, throttle body clean and almost no carbon at all in the intake passages. Im kicking myself for pulling it apart now especially since its running poorly. I wish i just did new spark plugs as a good measure, but at least we can rule out the clogged ports haha
     
  10. michaud85

    michaud85 Member

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    OK so I saw another post on here where a guy said to run it in maintenance mode for a while and I tried that for about five minutes, but it was still running really rough

    I ended up taking it out of maintenance mode and then just backing out of the driveway and as soon as I hit the gas driving forward on the road. The car was fine.

    I still have the same vibration, but it seems to be a little better actually and it seems to be running smoother under power as well

    it’s idling fine now.

    cleaned the mass airflow sensor and I still have the vibration

    I’m going to change the spark plugs as a precautionary measure and report back
     
    #10 michaud85, Apr 20, 2026 at 7:18 AM
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2026 at 7:46 AM
  11. michaud85

    michaud85 Member

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    Disconnected the EGR valve and drove around.
    Still had the same symptoms of Rumble at low throttle inputs. It’s the easiest to make it happen when going up an incline.

    reconnected EGR valve and reset CEL and have the same symptoms.
     
  12. Variush Dafaee

    Variush Dafaee New Member

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    Hello Mendel,

    Thanks for the info you provided. I'm having a similar problem as OP and I'm wondering what you think the source of the problem could be if not EGR related?

    Thanks!

    Variush
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    No clue. My comment is merely that EGR is not problematic in gen 4.
     
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  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It's possible (in fact, hard to avoid) to put it back together with the valve slightly open. You can start by spinning the rotor all the way down, which is the fully-closed position, but at some point as you're putting the stator back on, your fingers have to come out so you let go, and the spring pushes the rotor back up a little bit, and the upshot is by the time you're done bolting the stator back down, the valve is now slightly open.

    If the valve is off the car, I just turn it over then and put my thumbs on the valve pintle and shove it closed. This doubles as a nice test that I didn't get anything wedged on reassembly: you can feel/hear the rotor whirring inside while shoving the pintle closed, and if everything is good, that's all smooth and easy.

    If the valve isn't off the car, there's no easy way to shove the pintle closed after you've reassembled it. For the life of me, I've never thought that should be a problem, because according to the manual, the ECM is always sending steps in the 'close' direction whenever it doesn't want the valve open, and so even if the valve is a smidge open when you go to start the car, it should end up closed right away.

    And yet ... and yet ... I've seen one or two reports like yours where it seems like, for some reason, that isn't what's happening. I don't have an explanation for it.

    If you have scan tool active tests, maybe you could try (with the car IG ON, not READY) sending the valve up to step 110 and back to step 0 and see if that changes anything.

    You could also do the old "physically block off the EGR pipe" test. If the roughness goes away then, you'll know EGR is the right place to be looking, and if it doesn't, you can broaden the search.
     
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  15. Variush Dafaee

    Variush Dafaee New Member

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    This is still very helpful. Thank you
     
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  16. Variush Dafaee

    Variush Dafaee New Member

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    Excellent info. Thanks Chapman!