A/C compressor wiring harness / connector

I'm going to suggest a simple fix that Toyota would Never endorse. Peel back the tape on both ends of the connection, find the right wires (the ones going to both sides of the broken pin), and solder a jumper wire between them. You don't even need to cut either cable, just remove some insulation to expose the metal wire an inch of two from each end of the plug and make your splices.

If you want to get fancy, put a little bullet plug in the middle of the jumper so you can disconnect it later. Regardless, make sure your jumper wire is at least as thick as the original, solder it properly, and cover the splices with good electrical tape. You just saved $1000.

 

Isn't one "end" of the 12 volt control connection the compressor itself? Peel back the cast aluminum on that side?

Sometimes the issue at a dealer is nobody at the parts counter knowing how to look up the parts you want or wanting to take the time to learn. Have you tried going in with the housing shell and repair terminal part numbers (from the wiring diagram) and asking for those?

It is still possible to strike out, as the wiring diagram does warn that not all the numbered parts are available separately. But it takes the maybe-I-just-don't-wanna-look-it-up parts person out of the loop.

-Chap

 

there is no way to crack the connector on the compressor -- get to the contact and solder something to it ? I would do anything possible to reconnect to teh existing compressor before I opened up the system

 

Mmm, not a good idea.

 

So, in this other post over here, I go through how to find that information in the wiring diagram. Once you get to an image like this one (note this isn't A/C, just a different example):



you see there is a link up in the corner, Wire Harness Repair. Click that, and the details of the actual terminal are shown (here, for confusion, is a different random example).



That's telling you this (example, not yours) terminal would be a 0.64 mm size designation, in the second (II) family of that size, and of a non-waterproof style. (When you find your compressor terminal, it will surely be a waterproof style).

You can compare those specs to other connectors in the car looking for terminals to cannibalize, but it's usually easier to go to the dealer and ask for (in this example) part number 82998-24290 and have them sell you the exact terminal, already crimped onto (in this example) a 160 mm pigtail of wire that you can crimp to your harness (in this example, you could use the 82999-12020 blue crimp sleeve).

-Chap

 

2010 prius ac cable | eBay

nd11 | eBay

This was too easy...............Maybe I'm looking at this wrong and dont understand.

 

The more I look at this, the more curious I get. Can you post a photo up?

Found it after a bit of looking. Sure seems like a lot of wires for an AC compressor. Modern technology I suppose. Other vehicles with the connector:


Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007-2014 6 Cyl 4.0L

Toyota Land Cruiser 2008-2017 8 Cyl 5.7L

Toyota Prius 2010-2015 4 Cyl 1.8L

Toyota Sequoia 2008-2017 8Cyl 4.6L, 8 Cyl 4.7L, 8 Cyl 5.7L

Toyota Sienna 2011-2017 4 Cyl 2.7L, 6 Cyl 3.5L

Toyota Tundra 2007-2017 6 Cyl 4.0L, 8 Cyl 4.6L, 8 Cyl 4.7L, 8 Cyl 5.7L

 

Well, your profile says you're driving a Gen 2. Your compressor just has a dumb 3-phase motor and three orange wires from a motor-controller/inverter that is built into the car's main inverter box.

A Gen 3 takes the motor control and compressor inverter circuitry out of the main box and into the compressor itself. The orange cables to the Gen 3 compressor are just straight power feed. It gets CAN bus commands over the low voltage connector and controls its own motor accordingly, and reports back its own status. Main inverter price goes down, compressor price goes up.

I would consider removing from the existing connector housing all of the terminals (or as many as will come out, observing the instructions in the diagram for how to release them), and evaluate their condition. Any that are good enough, I might simply click into the new housing in the proper positions, rather than cutting them all off and making six splices just because you can.

The prices they charge for their 160 mm repair wire segments never fail to make me shake my head.

-Chap

 

Hello, I wanted to post my experience on this topic. I had an issue with the pins being broken on the ac compressor. I could have gotten another one, but my curiosity got the best of me and I wanted to see if it was possible to fix the connector…I was hoping it was as simple as some wires inside I could connect to a new harness. Turns out it was a circuit board, I removed the top of the 12V side (the oddly shaped bolt heads were simply hex afterall), removed the solder and pins, and soldered in a new 6 pin connector. Then I sealed it up with high temp silicone and it works!

Anyway, just wanted to share in case this may help anyone…

 

Not advice, just sharing my experience. If you do try at your own risk, be sure to disconnect all power to compressor and allow capacitors to discharge

 

Nice work. What did you use to suck up the solder? Did you do all this with the board still in the housing?

 

I used the device you can see in the 1st and 3rd pics, small hand suction device from HF. Yes, removed the top cover & had access to the front and back sides with the circuit board still attached to the lid.

 

Just getting my bearings here ... I assume the part sticking out to the lower left in the photo is the connector for the incoming high-voltage DC, and the three circles in a row at the top center are sockets that connect to the three motor phase windings by just slipping over three internal contact pins? So, after removing the bolts, this assembly just lifted straight up off those pins?

Is the space below this assembly open to refrigerant, such that imperfect sealing of this part when bolted back down would be a refrigerant leak?

Or does this part bolt down onto a still-closed top compressor surface, with just the three phase winding pins sticking up?

Are those traces of thermal interface paste I see around that flat central area, where it might be clamped against a flat compressor surface that's cooled by returning refrigerant? If so, what kind of paste did you use when reinstalling it?

 

I don't have any issue with the connector on my car's compressor,

I did, however, unplugged the connector and filled the connection with dielectric grease,

The position if the connection is an apparent moisture trap which promotes corrosion over time.