FINALLY, someone who understands how neutral works. now i would agree with you that perfect gliding in D is better than N BUT its far too much work keeping the pedal in the sweet spot, so shifting to N [ONLY at slow speeds in safe areas like streets] is much easier
Keep in mind pulse and coast will never be as efficient as pulse and glide. (done right) You want to just barely power the wheels to extend the glide and use up battery power. N does none of that.
coast = no power input? glide = very little power input? so for a long flat street glide is better? but wouldn't that only be if i want to continue forward? I was thinking of a long flat street where there is a traffic light ahead [or stop sign] and i want to keep as much speed in case it turns green but without any power input in case it is still red. I have a 3/4 mile and 1/2 mile stretch like this every day. I TRY to feather the pedal for perfect coast in drive but thinking of using neutral instead
I too coast to lights if my sightline is limited. Where i know a stop sigh is coming and no one is behind me to get annoyed, I glide for 3/4 of a mile 60 to 0.
I'll note for the sake of a valuable reason to shift into neutral for those who are having an overcharge situation and want to keep pushing their bad module HV pack useful life longer, run the Dr. Prius app with the Fan Override temp setting something low like 69'F or lower to assure the Fan is typically always on. One can keep resetting the HV Battery Codes, as much as every city block, if the pack is not overheating and then shift to neutral before something like 65% SOC when braking if the MFD battery level is going up really fast so never full green bars. This hack prevents the MFD, and HV pack, from going to All Green Bars and over the maybe ~75% SOC where the engine begins over revving and runs poorly as well as forcing MG's to turn to discharge the pack. Running the HV battery fan override, clearing HV battery codes routinely and the shifting into neutral with monitoring of the SOC to keep below 65%, thus prevent overcharging, is a successful way I've found to never blow up a bad module having pack and keep using until you can replace. I've driven months testing the above method and does work from my experience if you follow. Usually freeway miles hours at a time at times, though some city driving. Beware, if you forget to shift into neutral before say 65% SOC IMO and keep resetting the codes you can blow up the module(s) from overcharging causing overheating and overpressure. A friend of a friend told someone how to do and I later asked if she forgot to shift into neutral and she clearly was not routinely monitoring the SOC charge indicator on the MFD and shifting into neutral. She said she was braking at a railroad stop when happened. Plus was revving strange prior.
