Gen5 PHEV AC intermittently blowing warm during battery cooling

Discussion in 'Gen 5 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by p3p5p, Jul 19, 2026 at 10:50 PM.

  1. p3p5p

    p3p5p New Member

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    Car: 2025 Prius PHEV XSE with 8000 miles on it, purchased 3 months ago at 5000 miles.

    Problem: When the battery needs cooling (such as half an hour into a highway drive in EV mode), AC alternates blowing cold and warmish at 20-30 second intervals. This seems to happen when the scan tool indicates the battery is at or above 104 degrees Fahrenheit. Today that took me about 25 minutes of 65-60 mph driving, at an ambient temp of 78-80 degrees F.

    Additional info:
    - This isn't during extreme cooling load -- happened today when it was only 78 degrees F.
    - Per the scan tool, the compressor is cycling on and off, maxing out at about 1 kW draw. So, it doesn't seem to be at its capacity limit at all: I've seen it draw 2-3 kW when cooling down a heat-soaked car on a hot day.
    - I'm aware this model has a refrigerant-cooled battery -- but I'm very surprised cooling the battery causes such a hit to interior comfort, especially in such mild conditions! Such a system should presumably be able to cool the cabin evaporator and the battery at the same time?
    - It cools fantastically well under all other conditions. Long HV mode drives have been fine (battery presumably doesn't get as hot.) EV mode drives at lower speeds / stop and go have also been fine (so it's not like it just happens when I've been driving for more than half an hour.) It cools down a hot car in 95 degree weather excellently.
    - My scan tool doesn't show any codes. It's possible it can't talk to whichever module is responsible for the AC, though.

    Does anyone know if this is normal behavior for this car? If so, that's unfortunate! If not, I probably have to convince my dealership I'm not delusional. Also, what battery temps do other gen5 PHEV drivers tend to see?

    IMG_1149.jpg

    Thank you!
     
  2. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    Your HVAC system is probably set to ECO mode; which minimizes current draw and maximizes EV miles. If that bothers you, switch the HVAC to normal mode. That will most likely get rid of that 30 seconds of warm air and ramp up the compressor.
    Whenever I'm traveling 55+ mph for a while; I usually force the car into HV mode. It exercises the ICE components and warms up the ICE; so it's there if I need to floor it. It's not good to whine-out a cold engine and your gas isn't going stale.:)
     
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  3. LRO

    LRO Member

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    For sure, it's designed to take care of the battery and cabin simultaneously. I wouldn't give that a thought.

    But look over your manual about Air Conditioning Eco mode ... it's probably on by default but can be turned off. Also check what driving mode you're using (Normal/Sport/Eco) ... choosing Eco driving mode will turn on Eco Air Conditioning mode. Eco as I'm sure you gather just prioritizes fuel economy and Toyota algorithms control/adjust compressor and fan speeds to achieve that. I use eco mode in my 90+ sweltering humid weather and have never had a complaint but am not that particular or pay that much attention to temps (or mileage). But others sure do and that's why it can be changed.
     
  4. p3p5p

    p3p5p New Member

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    Neither the HVAC nor the car are in eco mode :(
    Normal drive mode, normal HVAC mode.
    Mild weather outside. And yet, something starts cycling the HVAC air supply temperature when the battery gets hot.

    Attaching a recording of my drive. You can see I start out on local roads, with the windows open and no AC (enjoying the nice weather!), get on the highway, and as the battery temp gets up to 104 F (40 C), the AC compressor starts ramping up, and then goes into that weird cycling mode. That cycling continues after I run out of charge and go into HV mode.

    Weather outside on this day was between 78 and 80 degrees F (26 C ish)

    Unfortunately my scan tool doesn't seem to be able to pull any of the interesting data from the heat pump system. No EXV positions, temperature readings, or anything.
     

    Attached Files:

    #4 p3p5p, Jul 20, 2026 at 12:44 PM
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2026 at 12:50 PM
  5. p3p5p

    p3p5p New Member

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    Hey, I got a PHEV for a reason, and that reason wasn't to run on gas when I didn't have to :D

    I totally understand this approach if you're saving electricity for local driving at the other end of your highway drive. But if you're just driving on the highway, it seems to make sense to want to use up the battery, especially if you can charge at your destination.

    I'm not so worried about it being hard on the engine when it switches over to HV, because I've observed that it still lets it warm up before wringing it out, even when you run out of EV range, as long as you're not doing any crazy acceleration.
     
  6. p3p5p

    p3p5p New Member

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    I'm curious if anyone else with this same vehicle has noticed similar? @LRO, looks like you also have a 5th gen Prime, so I'd be curious whether you notice anything like this. Even better if you have a scan tool :)
     
  7. LRO

    LRO Member

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    See post #3 and while I have a scan tool I'm not monitoring the HV battery temp sensors. Just no reason to go down that path when things are working absolutely fine for me. And like I said to notice a difference in A/C output on my body as often as every 20-30 seconds is beyond my ability to detect. I have a temperature set for the cabin and like any HVAC thermostat they don't waste computing power or compressor life by adjusting the cabin temperature that often. There's got to be some kind of reasonable delta before that would make sense. Between the variable speed compressor, fans, sun sensors, fresh/recirculation venting and ECO mode logic there's a lot of Toyota undocumented algorithms in play.

    But given you got a very recent Prius with low mileage I might be doing exactly what you're doing if I didn't know the history of why it wasn't kept by the prior owner.
     
  8. p3p5p

    p3p5p New Member

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    You'd be surprised, with the air blowing right on you, even if the overall cabin air temperature doesn't change, it can be very noticeable if the supply air temperature itself changes!

    I agree with you that it would make no sense to obsess about it if it weren't affecting comfort -- just trust the car to do the right thing. But in this case, it's doing something that feels not quite right to me.
     
  9. KMO

    KMO Senior Member

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    I've never observed any deficiencies in AC performance in EV mode.

    Is the observed behaviour actually causing a problem in the interior climate? I'm not sure if I'd notice this - I don't expect the vents to be outputting a constant temperature of air, rather than maintaining a steady overall climate. So I don't generally point the vents directly at myself to avoid being bothered by their variations while controlling the climate.

    If it the system had a problem, I'd rather expect it to be indicating some sort of error report.

    The refrigerant circuit passes through both the battery and the cabin - I'm sure it has quite a juggling act to do to cool the battery sufficiently without excessively cooling the cabin.

    I'd guess that what you're seeing is a mode toggle that's trying to keep the average temperature going into the cabin what is necessary for climate - equivalent to the steady 0.4kW from earlier in the graph. It looks like a control graph for something trying to keep a 0.5kW average with a minimum 1kW output. Not sure why those are the rules though - maybe the minimum is coming from a need for higher pressure? I suspect it may be flipping some valves as well as flipping the compressor on and off.

    As an experiment, when it starts doing this, try pushing the cabin temperature lower, or even to max low. I suspect that would stop the toggling.
     
  10. p3p5p

    p3p5p New Member

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    That's a good idea, would be interesting to see if that changes its behavior.

    I do think in general cars try to maintain a fairly constant evaporator temp. Certainly even on cars with engine-driven compressors and clutches that cycle on and off, the evaporator has enough thermal mass to keep the air fairly constant. So I'm surprised to see this behave differently, and only in this specific operating condition. One reason is that as soon as the evaporator starts warming up, you introduce quite a lot of humidity into the cabin from the condensate collected on the fins.

    For what it's worth, I don't find "I'm sure it has quite a juggling act to do" to be a particularly compelling excuse for poor cabin comfort in a vehicle that initially came out in MY2023 -- EVs have had battery coolant chillers for ages (though rarely direct refrigerant cooling!), so getting this right feels like table stakes for building an electrified vehicle. It's also got individual refrigerant valves for the cabin evaporator and battery cooler, so I would expect it to be independently controlled (similar to a multi-zone mini-split system in a home.)
     
  11. KMO

    KMO Senior Member

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    I spent a while trying to find any detailed docs on the circuit, but don't have any to hand.

    The diagrams in Car Care Nut's videos seem a bit wonky, and I don't have a copy of the New Car Features that goes into it in detail.

    The compressor is variable speed, but I think the valves are binary on/off. My suspicion is that that the valve for the cabin evaporator toggling could be the main issue here - it's decided that with the refrigerant circuit ramped up for the battery it has to shut the cabin valve off sometimes to stop the cabin getting too cool. I suspect the toggling of the compressor you see on the tool is secondary - it's deciding to only run the compressor in one of the valve configurations - presumably trying to balance things?

    I don't know how your home system would work here - are you sure it won't be doing similar valve switches to individual units? You wouldn't be standing right in front of the vents to notice.

    It could still be that your vehicle is behaving worse than it should - it doesn't seem like anyone else has noticed anything. Hopefully someone can find the time to instrument equivalent conditions to get a concrete comparator..
     
    #11 KMO, Jul 20, 2026 at 2:58 PM
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2026 at 3:03 PM
  12. p3p5p

    p3p5p New Member

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    Thank you for looking anyway, though!

    Home systems like this usually have a continuous valve for each unit, which both controls the amount of cooling _and_ acts as the expansion device in the refrigeration circuit.

    I believe our Prii also have several continuous stepper-motor valves, but I wonder whether there's some on/off reconfiguration needed under some circumstances (it also has several solenoid valves as well.) Maybe that's playing a role.

    I have a lot of the service manuals sourced from... somewhere... but not the New Car Features. Might be worth the $30 at least to satisfy my curiosity. The service manuals I have are mostly around individual sections of the system and how to troubleshoot, but are lacking an overview. There's a section for troubleshooting the air not being cold, and it doesn't mention "the battery might be hot" at all, which makes me think this behavior is unusual. I'm at work and the computer with all the good stuff is at home, so I'll check it later.

    TCCN has videos on the gen4 Prime and the pre-2026 Rav4, which are both ever so slightly different than our gen5 PHEVs, so it's hard to know quite how they differ.
    • gen4 Prius doesn't have the battery refrigeration, but does have the fancy multi-mode heat pump
    • Rav4 has battery refrigeration but doesn't have a cabin condenser, uses the heat pump to heat the coolant instead.
    • Not certain whether gen5 is just like gen4 + the battery refrigeration from the Rav4, or if it's totally different.
    Weber Auto has a battery teardown, which shows the stepper-motor valves, but doesn't get into the rest of the refrigerant circuit.