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'02 Prius, Not starting, P3125 Code

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Jerry G., Oct 7, 2014.

  1. royfrontenac

    royfrontenac Member

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    Jerry - my e-mail is [email protected] for manuals
     
  2. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Gentlemen,
    I placed the parking brake on, cleared my P3125 code, turned the key and the gas engine started.
    Approx 5 seconds later, the motor raised in rpm and the "triangle of death" appeared. I cleared the code while the engine was still running and switched the Prius display to the charging diagram. Nada going to the HV battery. I started my wife's Prius and the display shows the engine charging the battery. I took photos of the tests I did. first is the Prius display while engine running, 2nd screenshot of computer while the engine was running and 3rd engine was off. I tried to do a battery test, but all I got was ads on the bottom after the test was run. image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg I rest the code again, unplugged the 12vdc battery, plugged battery back in and attempted to start the engine again. Nothing. Trouble code immediately came up. I'm at a loss at this point. Everyone says it's not the inverter unit. If it's not, why do I consistently get this code? I cannot run any test just as the engine is started as there is not enough time prior to the p3125 code coming up. Any ideas??
    Thanks in advance.
     
  3. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    Engine revving up as fault code comes up sounds like inverter problem. If inverter can’t send power from MG1 to anywhere then there isn’t anything to hold engine rpm down.
     
  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The flash makes it very difficult to read all the values. I think Windows has a screen capture technique that would have eliminated the camera shot of the screen. At work, I use "print screen" and then paste the buffer into 'paint.' No camera and a good capture. To read the screen photo, I have to load it into a photo editor and take sections for image analysis.

    Still, this is what I found significant in the first screen:
    • SOC ~21% :: Holy crap! The traction battery is severely discharged. The normal low limit is 40%
    • IW -2 A :: The car electronics are being powered by the traction battery
    • 12V battery is OK
    • The shift sensor says it is "P" but it acts as if it were in "N" or something really bad is going on.
    If you ever get the engine to run again, try shifting into any other gear except "N" while watching for a charge going on the traction battery. If you see evidence of charge, hold it for at least 10 minutes to get the traction battery back up.

    The second photo shows SOC 24% which is consistent with battery rest recovery.

    Ok, I'll go out to my car and use the safety interlock to induce a code and subcode. Then I'll make some screen shots that will show what we're looking for.

    LATE: Subcode 345 from the freeze frame -> "Abnormal current value of generator"

    "If the information code 344 or 345 is output, check if other DTC or information codes are recorded. If they are recorded, check and repair those codes first.
    If the information code 344 or 345 alone is record, replace the converter & inverter assembly."

    Bob Wilson
     
    #44 bwilson4web, Oct 12, 2014
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2014
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  5. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Thank you Bob,
    No flash, just reflection off the screen. I was outdoor in the car on those shots. I did do a couple screen shots in paint but unfortunately the capture cut off some data. This is why I just did photos. If I had Windows 7 I could just do snipping tool, but I understand miniVIC runs better on XP. So, I can do screen shots but it may cut important data off.

    IW-2a: So is it bad that the car electronics are being powered by traction battery?

    If I do get the engine running, won't the computer shut off the inverter via the P3125 code even if I did get the shifter into something other than P?? Also, won't this further discharge the traction battery?
    The 12v battery does get 13.7 v when the key is on, so part of the inverter is working, correct?
    This has really got me frustrated. I'm lost at this point. Thinking I may cut my losses at this point.
     
  6. royfrontenac

    royfrontenac Member

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    Your battery shows a state of charge of 20%
    When I have had a state of charge that low I have used my charger to bring the state of charge up to 60% before I ask the car to take over charging. The inverter may still be the problem but it also may be the voltage to the inverter is so low from the battery it is causing the inverter code to appear. The inverter code 3125 has many sub codes that may shed more light on the problem. Maybe Bob knows where the sub codes appear in techstream windows. Swapping hv batteries may be the answer lf his other car is a 2001 to 2003 prius. That way his other car could bring the low battery up to charge, if it would not start or charge the low battery then he would know it is the battery and not the inverter. It would take a few hours to do that and leave him temporarilly without a car to drive.
     
  7. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    No problem but you can see how the reflection makes it . . . difficult. As for the screen shot, perhaps a PC wizard might have a suggestion. I run Virtual PC on a Mac and my screen shots are a lot easier.
    Without power, the car would not run but in this case: (1) some charge to spin up the engine, and (2) DC-to-DC converter applying charge to the 12V circuit. The 12V circuit looks good!
    Cycling through the shifter positions is just a wild-nice person guess that maybe you can trick it into charging the battery. If it works, GOOD. If not, nothing but one more engine start event for a traction battery going only one way, weaker.
    Only you can value your time.

    Now over in the Yahoogroup Prius Technical Stuff, some have described using light bulb as a current limiting resistor and a rectifier (aka., Radio Shack) as a 'Hill Billy' traction battery charger. But I would recommend talking with Eric as his solution is probably a lot less risky.

    Bob Wilson
     
  8. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Allright. So keep in mind the original issue was the engine stopped while being driven, the hybrid system trouble icon came on and the car was driven back 1/4 mile to a parking lot where after trying to restart a few times pulled the P3125 code, i had it towed home, front wheels up.
    So, there was charge left in the hv battery, enough to start the engine 3 times, all times throwing the P3125 code. If there was a problem with the shifter i dont think i could have driven it back.
    At this point ill take a gamble and replace the inverter unit. I dont think my wife will let me pull her hv battery to charge mine. She's just that way about her car. Unless someone can show me how to obtain sub codes for the P3125, i have to go where most of the evidence is pointing; The inverter.
     
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  9. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The subcode is in the freeze frame, 345.

    We know three failed starts sets an inhibit code but disconnecting the 12V clears it. You didn't know and that is just part of the Prius lore.

    I do not know how low the traction battery can go before it won't try to start the car. But at this point what do you have to risk?

    Disconnect the 12V one last time; reconnect, and; try to start. If the engine runs, try cycling through the shifter positions. If you see it charge, stop and recharge the traction battery. If not, you'll have a decision to make. Leave the wife's car alone.

    Bob Wilson
     
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  10. royfrontenac

    royfrontenac Member

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    The toyota manual says with subcode 345 replace the inverter assembly, since you have a spare inverter change it out and see if this corrects the problem. Be interesting to find out how this all ends --- like a mystery theatre with everyone making a guess who committed the crime. We are all amateurs (I think) who trying to help and giving our best guess as to the cause and correction of your problem and will learn from your experience once you get the car going. Please don't give up.

    Roy from Canada
     
  11. slimfrancis

    slimfrancis Member

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    It only takes about 20 mins to remove the hv battery out of the car. There's YouTube videos on the process. You'll at least be able to test your hv battery first hand and eliminate it as the problem. However, I've had over 20 priuses with dead hv batteries and not one ever through a 3125 code. Every 3125 code I've had was a burnt transaxle.
     
    #51 slimfrancis, Oct 13, 2014
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2014
  12. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Thank you once again gentlemen for your insight. I will be pushing my Prius into my shop and, as stated, I will be replacing the inverter hopefully today (found a good thread with photos to assist me). I will keep everyone posted on the outcome. It seems futile to try to start the engine one more time just to find out that it may do the same exact thing it has done half a dozen times before; not charge the battery and throw the code again. With the new inverter, odds are in favor that if it DOES fix the issue, I know it will charge the battery. Chancing trying to shift the shifter in 3-4 seconds so that it fools it into charging seems "foolhardy", not to downplay that it may work. The "Information Code" or subcode I guess, is a 345?? This states clearly to replace the inverter in the manual.

    Slimfrancis, I am keeping my fingers crossed that its not a fried Mg2 stator. Otherwise I may just sell the car for parts. Not sure I want to tackle R&R'ing a stator. I can get another used Prius that is working for about $3500, sell mine for $1200-1500. I paid $2000 for this current one. Cut my losses and I have a working car.

    Roy, Bob, thank you for the direction you have given me so far. Again, I will keep you posted on my progress.
     
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  13. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Further research referring to Pg. 449 of Prius shop manual:
     

    Attached Files:

  14. aswresm

    aswresm Junior Member

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    So what happens when you hear this winding sound because I have that in my Prius when I decelerate?......I don't have any codes or a check engine light?
     
  15. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    When the stator develops a short, it becomes a permanent, unregulated, heat source that proceeds to burn and short more windings. But other noises such as bearings and CVT joints can also make speed coupled sounds. For MG2, there are other diagnostic techniques:
    1. ICE temp > MG1 temp > MG2 temp :: if MG2 temp is greater than MG1 or ICE temperature, it is failing.
    2. Sample transaxle oil :: if black and smells burnt.
    [​IMG]
    This was the last one I saw being removed.

    Bob Wilson
     
  16. aswresm

    aswresm Junior Member

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    @bwilson4web I get the same sound noted in the Youtube video above only when braking and it stops when the car stops.....Wouldn't that be considered as simple as a regenerative braking system sound ?
     
    #56 aswresm, Oct 14, 2014
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2014
  17. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The speed and pitch relationship will be simular. However, a shorted stator can never be turned off and over time, it has substantially larger, unlimited current. Regenerative braking is managed by the power electronics and limited to avoid hurting the traction battery. It is often described as a 'humm' suggesting a substantial mechanical stress.

    Bob Wilson
     
  18. aswresm

    aswresm Junior Member

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    @bwilson4web .........Thank you Bob.....You are our Prius Icon....
     
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  19. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The real icons were the first adopters in 2000-2005 who taught me. I just share what they pioneered. Folks like Doug, Hobbit, Davies, Patrick, and others who 'cracked the code.' I'm just glad to pass on what little I've learned from them.

    Bob Wilson
     
  20. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Alright so here's my update: I went to replace the inverter. In the process, I noticed the large round 3 wire plug had not been secured with 3 bolts and was not making connection. The 3 connections were arc'd badly so I cleaned them up with emery cloth. I found 3 bolts and reassembled the inverter correctly. I was sure this was problem causing the P3125, sub code 345.

    I proceeded to remove the HV battery and service it by pairing the weakest cells from the middle with the stronger cells on the ends. Cleaned all the bus bars, used anti corrosion compound (vampire blood) on all connections. Reinstalled the battery and it was showing 50%. Wow what a difference good connections make!

    Then the big test. I turn the key and the motor starts and the display shows the battery being charged. I'm home free I think. No codes, no warning triangle. Yaaay! Then I proceed to put the car in drive, press the pedal and I get nothing, no movement. The brake is off and I feel the car trying to move but it doesn't. I put it in reverse and get the same thing. I'm thinking what the hell!!! This car drove perfectly before all this P3125 stuff happened. No noises, no warning symbols or lights. I noticed when I push the pedal and the shifter is in drive, the motor cranks up and revs with my pushing the pedal then dies.

    Honestly, I've never in my wildest dreams would have predicted this outcome. I am absolutely Speechless at this point. What do I do....? I still have the key not releasing from the ignition problem, but now this car is pretty worthless.