04' ICE won't start

Welcome to Priuschat! In no particular order:

That fuse you replaced is the "AM2" fuse. The most common reason for that to pop is the the electric coolant pump for the inverter system has failed and shorted. AM2 also supplies power that's needed to turn the car on. At this point does the dashboard and speedo turn on when you step on the brake and press the power button (you may have to press twice).

If not then check that fuse- it may have blown again. If so you can temporarily unplug the electric coolant pump. Look at the fuse box underhood. Just behind it and slightly to your left are some wires- including a single wire connector- white with a black trace. Unplug that and it will "open" the pump circuit. (Many here recommend getting a "genuine" Toyota part from a dealer or reputable online source. Aftermarket brands can have poor reliability and ebay-amazon is known to have problems with counterfeits.) For short periods you can operate things without this pump working.

I am fairly confident that the scanner from AZ isn't capable of talking to most of the 16+ ecu's on a Gen2 Prius. My suggestion is to get the Autel Maxi AP200 bluetooth device and app for your smartphone. For about $70 or less you can get access to ALL codes and data for ALL systems on the Gen2 . Only a "dealer level" scantool such as Toyota Techstream will have more overall functionality (bidirectional controls and tests, custom settings, etc), but the same codes and data as the Autel. No other app is even close.

Or if you are computer savvy you can get a copy of Techstream and a VCI adapter (special dongle from the OBD2 port to USB). Most get a mini VCI (and bootleg Techstream) from ebay or amazon for a beater windows laptop. Some get a better VCI (Tactrix openport 2.0 or VCX Nano - more $$ but more reliable) and get genuine short term access (rental) to Techstream from Toyota direct. (Also includes access to as much technical info as you can download in that time frame).

Once you have a good idea of what the car thinks us wrong (ie codes), then we can give better advice.

Side question- you replaced the orange battery harness that goes to the battery ecu. Did your old ecu have corrosion damage at the pins? Did you have to replace the ecu?

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You haven't said whether you checked the inverter coolant pump is operational, but you may need to disconnect it until you do to avoid blowing that fuse again. The pump shorting internally is a cause for blowing the AM2 fuse. It is all explained in post #2 above.

With a broken pin on the ECU, you will need to replace the ECU. These can be bought secondhand from a scrapper relatively inexpensively. In addition, you will need a new Wire Frame Harness, No. 2 (as it is called – Part Number: 8216547040). These are available from Toyota and should cost $65 to $85. Shop around the online parts stores to get the best price. Toyota Parts Center Online is a good place to start.

I would replace these two parts, clear all the codes then rescan to see what codes come back.

 

As mentioned you need to replace some parts- new wire frame and ecu (used ecu from ebay should be fine). You'll want to confirm that the battery current sensor (plastic donut thing that goes around on HV battery cable) is not fully plugged into the battery ecu (3 wire connector)- because that would explain the battery current sensor code.

Then there's the power supply problem to the ABS system. Gonna need a wiring diagram and some detective work for that.

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Yes, that is the Wire Frame Harness No. 2. If you've already replaced it, then all good.

 

You can clearly see corrosion onthe main battery leads to the relay. Fix that.

Remove the orange safety plug and always get in the habit of checking hi voltage terminals that now should be dead. Voltmeter on DC should have no DC across those terminals. Don’t ever assume.

Remove all those leads ONE BY ONE lightly wire brush the connectors and relay pads clean it with carb cleaner spray and then lubricate the connector with grease and bolt back up.

Make sure this is done one lead at a time so you don’t get mixed up.

Then when done reinstall the orange safety plug and before starting the car carefully with your dc voltmeter measure across the battery leads that go to the relay. What ya got there? Should be at least 220 volts.