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05 Prius - No Electrical Power To Dash, Doors, etc.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by myflightdeck, Jul 24, 2019.

  1. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    Background: 05 Prius, Just purchased form a title company - it was a repo. Dead when I purchased it. Paid $500 and figured what the heck...Title company said the guy drove it in before the lended so something went wrong by the time it was repossessed.

    So here is the current condition:
    No power at all in the interior of the car except for the OBD connector and hazard lights. Bascially the clock, the Keyfob area, Headlights, door locks, window regulators, screens, instrument panels...all dead.

    I started by
    1. Testing the battery in the rear. (12.5 volts- right on the money).
    2. Checked jump terminal under hood (12.5 volts)
    3. Proceeded to check all fuses in the fuse box under the hood both visually and with a meter. (all good)
    4. I then inspected the fuse box under the steering wheel..and I found several of the fuses to have no power going to them. (not sure if that is normal).
    5. Plugged my OBD sensor in and it received power.
    6. I was going to see if I could program a second key - Thought maybe it was the key. Anyhow, my key guy could not get his computer to recognize a connection using the OBD. He said, in most cases you need to turn the key in the first position to power the car to make that connection. Anyhow...please help.

    I am wondering if a main fuse or relay or something may be preventing the lower fuse box from getting power to the fuses that do not have power or if anyone has any other ideas to get this up an going.
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Did you plug the key into the keyslot? Now all Prius cars have a smart key that works without putting the key into the keyslot.

    I don't understand the comment # 6. "turn the key in the first position". There is nothing to turn
     
  3. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    I am sorry for the confusion on the key. You are correct. I believe what I meant to say was that you put the key in and then press the button to ready the vehicle. We did put the key in the slot. The key I have was a new key that the locksmith was going to program to the car. I also have proximity keys as well. It is so weird becuase next to the slot that you enter the key you see what looks like is supposed to be small light of some sort. Everything is just dark. The windows, the locks, the mirrors, the lights (except hazard)...all dark. Do you think it could be the fusible link? I read in some posts where that was an issue but with all the fuses having power under the hood...I was not too sure if this was a possibility.
     
  4. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    Should all the fuses under the dash have power to them by default?
     
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    No, some fuses will have power only when the car is ACC-ON or IG-ON. For example you do not need your cabin air fan to remain running when the car is IG-OFF.
     
  6. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    Any suggestions on how to get the dash to come back to life?
     
  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Off the top of my head, make sure the key fob is live. Red light in corner should light any time a button is pressed. If not, install a new battery. The prius keyfob has an RFID chip in it, so the fob can be inserted into the slot, in case of a dead fob battery, and still allow you to operate the car.

    If inserting the fob still results in no power, there's a couple things to look at.

    Does the door ajar light turn on when the driver door is open. Is there a red car symbol with a key inside of it lit up on the dash? If those lights are on, then the car is not recognizing the fob and not recognizing the RFID chip that is (supposed to be) inside the fob. Make sure the "KEY" button under the steering wheel is pressed "in". This enables the SKS system. If the button is out, it disables the sks and requires the fob to be inserted into the slot. BUT, if the PO purchased a new fob cover at some point in the past, he may not have known to also swap the rfid chip to the new cover. It happens.
     
    SFO likes this.
  8. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    Thank you for taking the time to reply and share your expertise with me.

    The FOB is not live. No red light in the corner. The battery is showing a good charge, volts etc., I also verified there is power to the jumper location under the hood. Reads the same as the battery. Could it stilll be a battery, if I am showing a gold volt? Should I still replace it?

    The door ajar light does not come on when it is opened. No red car symbol iwth a key inside of it.
    I verified the "KEY" button is pressed in but still have the same issue.

    So I am thinking if I can get power to the dash, then they key FOB should light up etc...
     
  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    what would a good volt be?
     
  10. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    12.5 - 12.6
     
  11. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If you are serious about fixing this problem yourself, get the electrical wiring diagram at techinfo.toyota.com

    Make sure the 100A DC/DC fusible link is good. That is located in the 5" long clear/white plastic box in the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter.

    Then pick one simple system to start with. For example, the clock. Three fuses feed that system: 7.5A PANEL, 7.5A ACC, 15A DOME. The 7.5A PANEL receives power via the T-LP relay. The 7.5A ACC receives power via the ACC relay. The 15A DOME fuse should have power at all times.

    If you are not able to restore power to the clock then find professional assistance. Good luck.
     
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  12. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    If the door ajar symbol does not light when the driver door is opened, and the car/key symbol lamp does not light/flash, you may want to verify the DOME fuse again. It's in the engine compartment fuse box, passenger side of box, 15A fuse. 4th from the bottom.

    If the fuse is good, verify there is 12v available at the driver side tabs of that fuse holder. There's a bit of plstic at the top of the tabs, so you need to stick the meter lead in kind of angled from the side. If you have 12v at the jump point, you should have 12v at that point also. If you don't, you'll need to determine why, because that's a problem.

    If fuse is good and you have no 12v at the driver side tabs, remove the AM2 fuse and check it's tab also. The AM2 should be the 2nd 15A fuse from the top on driver side of the fuse box. (this one is very easy to read because the tabs don't have a protective plastic at the top.

    IMG_3938.JPG
     
    #12 TMR-JWAP, Jul 27, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2019
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  13. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    Thank you... I am out of town but will be back Tuesday and will do as you suggested. I will report back. Thanks again.
     
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  14. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    ok so it turned out to be what you suggested (the dome fuse). once I replaced it the car lit up like a christmas tree. Now when I go to start it, it does not start. All the warning lights turn on. I scanned it and I am getting the following codes.

    P0A94
    P0A78
    P0A94
    P030A
    C380A
    B140A

    Looking to determine next steps...
     
  15. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    tech stream and subscription to techinfo.toyota.com
     
  16. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    P0A94 and P0A78 each have like a zillion possible subcodes. Are you able to look at freeze frame data with your scanner?

    B14xx is usually an AC system DTC

    Without digging into it a bit, I'm not even sure the P030A, C380A and B140A are even legit prius codes......

    Personally, I would record any info I have, disconnect the 12v battery for a minute or two and then reconnect it. Just like a computer, when in doubt, or when it's acting stupid, just reboot it.

    And you probably want to verify the 12v has a decent state of charge before you get to crazy involved with troubleshooting. No sense chasing your tail.
     
  17. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    DOing as you suggested. I am putting the battery on the charger and checking volts. I did disconnect the battery and rescan. I have a cheap scanner that does not display sub codes. When I rescanned after disconnecting battery. Same codes. I will make sure the batter is fully chargeds and try to start it again.
     
  18. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    Ok...so here is an update. I noticed the "Low Fuel" message was on. I read some forums where low fuel can keep the car from running. I put 5 gallons in it and it still would not start. I watched another video where the guy had to disconnect the batter after putting fuel in it as well as remove the orange plug in the big battery unit. I did as he said and then pushed the start button (led on it was green).

    The dash lit up but this time showed the speedometer with the READY next to it. I thought "Sweet" clicked the button to start it and I heard clicks in the back near the battery and clicks under the hood but the car did not start. After doing this the speedometer and ready dissappeared and I was back to the original warning lights etc. Could it be the large battery is too drained to start it? I believe the 12.5 volt battery is good based on me charging it and testing it but sometimes you just never know.... Please if you have any ideas it would be great. I do not recall if I mentioned it but I do have the big red triangle on the dash...

    I am going to do the reset again but this time try and jump the car just in case it is the 12.5 battery. I will let you know what happened.
     
    #18 myflightdeck, Jul 31, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2019
  19. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    did you purchase this car because you're broke, and hoped it would just work?
     
  20. myflightdeck

    myflightdeck Junior Member

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    Tried again, disconnected everything but could not get the ready to appear again. I even disconnected everything and tried jumping it as well but no luck. Any other suggestions?