05 Prius No Start After HV Batter Cell Replacement - Clicking

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by mirzster, Jun 21, 2020.

  1. mirzster

    mirzster New Member

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    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Hello All, I'm having an issue with my 05 Prius after replacing a bad cell in the main HV Battery Pack. The car won't start after replacement and I'm not sure what to do. Here are the events:

    - Car had a OBD Codes for Bad Battery and Weak Block 6 (P0A80, P3016)
    - I removed the battery pack
    - Volt tested each cell
    - Replaced the one bad cell (6.3v) (all ofthers were around 8.05v)​
    - Put everything back and verified the orange interlock was secure (at least 5 times)
    - Verified all plugs are secured in their correct locations
    - The car will turn on and "Ready" will just flash on the screen for about 1-2 seconds and then just stays in "Ignition On" mode
    - There's a clicking noise that comes from around where the HV Battery plugs are
    - After clearing the codes (multiple times), the codes that come back are P3000 (HV Battery Fault) and P0AFA (HV Battery Low Voltage)
    - Left the car for about 2 hrs. and when I tried again, same thing


    What should I do??
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    How are you currently reading the OBD2 codes (DTCs), as DTC P3000 has five (5) associated INFs. Knowing the three (3) digit INF can potentially save time and effort when attempting to diagnose the problem.

    Here is the work for DTC P3000 with INFs 123, 125, 603 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3000123.pdf

    Here is the work for DTC P3000 with INF 388 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3000388.pdf

    Here is the work for DTC P3000 with INF 389 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3000389.pdf

    Here is the workup for P0AFA : https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2019/02/161942_2006_Prius_RM_-_DTC_P0AFA_Inspect_Proc.pdf

    Likely, if you didn't replace the sensing harness (wire frame #2), there could be a broken connection at one of the modules.

    Were you able to toque all of the module nuts to 48 inch pounds with the 1/4 inch torque wrench?

    Have you checked all of the connectors for corrosion around and inside the HV battery ECU?
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Are you able to post a photo(s) of the electronics portion of the HV battery? We can at least look to see if everything is connected correctly.

    As mentioned above, may also want to verify all the busbar fasteners are tight. If no torque wrench, then just make sure they're tight, but don't overdo it. Last thing you want to do is snap off a terminal stud.
     
  4. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    Does this mean you know to push the lever straight down after it is rotated up?

    Can your code reader see the 14 block voltages? That would be very helpful.
     
  5. mirzster

    mirzster New Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Figured out the issue. SFO, you were right. The busbars were not tightened correctly. I noticed on by scan tool that some of the blocks were showing intermittent negative voltages and I figured that must be it.Took it apart again, tightened it down and put it all back. Pushed down the orange lever of course and it started right up no codes. Thank you guys very much. Hopefully this thread becomes of use to someone else in the future.

    Tips to Remember (For other DIYers):
    - Tools Need: Trim Clip Pliers, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, Ratchet, Extension, Multimeter, OBDII Scanner ($25 from Amazon) Needle Nose Pliers, Drill (Optional to make the process go faster) and a sturdy Work Bench (you have to loosen bolts underneath so the ground won't work)
    - Check with scanner what voltages the blocks are reporting when the car is off, in "Ignition On" mode, and in "Ready" mode.
    - Label and separate all your screws. Take pictures before unscrewing things.
    - Check and record (write down) all the voltages from each cell after removing the battery. Do NOT just replace the block with the fault code. (It's possible that a different fault is the actual faulty one)
    - Confirm Busbars are tight when putting the nuts back on. (Torquing is good but not really necessary if you tighten by hand nice and snug)
    - Hand start all screws at least half way when putting them back.
    - Verify all plugs, hoses, ducts and screws are in before putting the next cover or trim back on.
    - Push that orange lever down when finished. You can almost hear a click.
     
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