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06 Prius not starting, low battery?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by cardana24, Oct 12, 2014.

  1. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Do not worry about starting the car while it is on jack stands. That is not your problem.

    The problem is that you have a fault with the resolver sensor which monitors the rotational speed and direction of MG2. So once the front wheels start to turn, the HV ECU recognizes it does not have a valid speed signal regarding MG2 and logs the three DTC you reported.

    That sensor is located on the driver's side of the transaxle, facing the radiator. It is named "motor revolution sensor". If you obtain the repair manual subscription, you can get an exploded parts diagram of the transaxle so that you can identify the various parts. I think that would really help you.
     
  2. cardana24

    cardana24 Junior Member

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    I think you are right, I am just trying to get my ducks in a row before I pay for a subscription...that's all.

    Could any of the problems that I am having possibly be caused by removing the rear (driverside wheel area) transaxle cover? The reason I ask is because I had to remove this in order to swap over my MG cables. The junkyard trans I got came with cut cables so I had to swap mine over. The cable that bolts in under the access cover more towards the top of the trans was very straight forward...the other one not so much. I had a tough time (I need to take pics because I don't know the names of all of this stuff) getting the rear cover back on with the three bolts in the center that bolt to a ring that goes over the trans shaft.
     
  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I assume you are referring to the two high voltage, orange-insulated cables. I believe the main issue is that the polarity of the three wires within each cable must be correct. Those cables provide power connections to the two three-phase AC motor generators (MG1, MG2) and the wires are typically labeled W, X and Y.
     
  4. cardana24

    cardana24 Junior Member

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    yes, the two orange high voltage cables...the junkyard cut the cables on the replacement trans...so I had to swap over my old cable to the new trans...I'm just wondering if any of the process could be causing my problems. Because I had a heck of a time getting the rear cover put back on correctly because the three bolts in the center were had to get put back in to the ring that they screw into.

    Which HV cables hook up at which location? Which one is the easy one to access behind the access door on the top front of the trans....MG1 or MG2? Then which is the one that you have to open up the rear cover of the trans to access?
     
  5. cardana24

    cardana24 Junior Member

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    I don't know if this is the same trans that I have but it looks very similar. If you look around 3:10 in the video they have the rear cover off on the bench....I think that is the same ring I am talking about when I was having trouble getting things back together.
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I will leave it to you to answer your own questions, which can be accomplished by referring to the transaxle exploded parts diagram.
     
  7. cardana24

    cardana24 Junior Member

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    Okay, here is a pic of the old trans that I took out. See the ring that has the wiring on it. This harness is the one that goes to the plug on the side of the trans closest to the driver side wheel well. If this sensor was not reading correctly would this give me my dtc's?? The reason I ask is because I think I could have I stalled it wrong. I did not bolt it down to the rear cover before I bolted the cover back on. But rather I put everything in place and then tried to pull it to the cover with the bolts.

    Here is a pic of the trans with the cover taken off
    [​IMG]

    Here is how I am thinking it should have been bolted to the cover before I tried to out everything together. Any input?
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes. If any of the MG2 resolver sensor wires were damaged that certainly would cause the DTCs. Toyota does not designate the resolver sensor parts as field-replaceable. If a sensor has failed their solution is to replace the entire transaxle. Perhaps the difficulty you had with the reassembly helps to explain the reason for Toyota's service policy.

    You can test the sensor via ohmmeter checks, per the repair manual.

    I take it then, that this sensor is not related to the wiring harness connector that you had to splice (photos of which were in your post #54)? If that is true then I suggest you identify that damaged connector by referring to the repair manual. Once you know the function of that connector, test the integrity of the wiring harness and your splices, via ohmmeter checks.
     
  9. cardana24

    cardana24 Junior Member

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    Okay guys, I have an update. I replaced the battery with a new yellow top, then I decided to take the rear cover off of the trans again because that was the only area I really had an issue with when swapping the trans. Here is what I saw when I first cracked the cover...the round sensor was not mounted flat against the cover.
    [​IMG]

    So I finished pulling the cover off and pulled the sensor and mounting ring off. I'll let the pics do the talking.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So I got the sensor and mounting ring off of the original trans that I pulled and installed it flush on the cover. Then I put the cover back on.
    [​IMG]

    When I went to "start" the car for the first time I saw something I had not seen since I started the swap...the "Ready" light! And the dash was not all lit up. The car actually went into D and R.

    So I drove it into work today and it did fine. I do think that the Hybrid battery is depleted because when I start out from a stop the car kinda of hickups then the ICE comes on and I start going...again the Prius is new to me and I have never driven one before this...but I thought that the battery powers the car initially. Is this a sign of the HV battery being low. If so how can I get it charged up?

    When driving in this morning the CEL did come on and I scanned it when I got to work and it was the P0420 code, which has to do with catalyst efficiency. Which has nothing to do with the trans so I was happy about that.
     
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  10. Yakoma

    Yakoma Active Member

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    Whoa. I'd say that'd throw a code. Guess you didn't notice when installing? Or was it damaged after installation?
     
  11. cardana24

    cardana24 Junior Member

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    When I installed it I put the cover on first before the 3 mounting bolts were installed. So I put the bolts in once the cover was on. I used a longer bolt to hold the sensor in place....obviously it did not work well. I knew something was probable not 100% correct because I had to use one longer bolt when mounting the sensor because the factory bolt would not reach.

    The lesson here is that if you ever do this either do not remove the three mounting bolts in the center that hold this sensor in place (again I have never worked on a Prius before this so I just assumed these 3 bolts were bolts that held the rear trans case cover on). Or if you do remove them make sure you mount the sensor in place/flush on the cover before it is reinstalled.
     
  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    your hv battery has a meter on the dash telling you the charge level.
     
  13. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Why did you have to open up the new replacement transaxle?
     
  14. cardana24

    cardana24 Junior Member

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    because the trans I got had cut MG1 and MG2 cables so I had to swap them over from the old trans to the new one.
     
  15. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Those cables should be accessible just by removing the covers to the cables (orange cables). I don't think you had to open the entire transaxle up to swap the cables.
     
  16. cardana24

    cardana24 Junior Member

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    The one on the top yes...you just pop open an access cover...the cable closer to the left side wheel well, you have to pull the cover off.
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Look at the MFD traction battery gauge to see the battery state-of-charge. If it is too low and you are impatient, you can force charge the battery by making the Prius READY and shifting to D. Press hard on the brake pedal with your left foot. Floor the accelerator pedal with your right foot.

    Since MG2 cannot rotate with the car stationary, all of the gasoline engine output is routed into MG1 which will charge the traction battery. Do not overdo this procedure because you may overheat the transaxle and stress the MGs.

    Good to see that you were able to replace the warped (failed) position sensor. Excellent photos.
     
  18. cardana24

    cardana24 Junior Member

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    I will google it but is the MFD traction battery gauge, the Battery display shown on the display while driving (when it shows engine, electric engine, battery and then it has arrows showing what is powering the car)? The car really has not been driven since July of last year so I am sure it is depleted some. I did drive the car 60 miles yesterday and it did fine....just the hesitation when starting from a dead stop. I did have to pull the wipers/cowl and inverter again last night once I got home because I am having a coolant leak. I must have damaged a hose when I was doing the trans swap. The hose just below the upper radiator hose is leaking where it enters the engine...its the hose that goes from there to the throttle body, I am going to get one ordered today.
     
  19. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yes, it is a battery shape with green horizontal lines showing how full it is. it is typically around the middle, but when it gets low, it shows two purple bars. even then, the software doesn't allow it to get so low that it affects performance. if it goes to one purple bar, or fluctuates up and down rapidly, you may have a problem.
     
  20. cardana24

    cardana24 Junior Member

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    Okay, that shows fine. What could cause the off idle hesitation? It seems that when I let my foot off the brake from a stop the ICE starts shortly after, but the initial acceleration is not there until the ice gets wound up. Is this normal? Again I am new to these cars. I don't remember this hesitation/stumble when I drove it home half a year ago, but then again I did not have to stop more than twice on the way home.