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'09 Rav with 78k - Transmission "Glitter" & Codes

Discussion in 'Fred's House of Pancakes' started by Cdgreg, Dec 28, 2017.

  1. Cdgreg

    Cdgreg Member

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    2020 Prius Prime
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    XLE
    I'll try to keep this short, and appreciate feedback/advice!

    We were driving my wife's '09 Rav4 AWD Base Model (2.5 liter 4cyl VVT-i, 4AT transmission, attached full spec sheet) with 78,000 on the thruway on Christmas in NY with very high winds in single digit temperatures with cruise control at about 74mph when all of a sudden cruise dropped and the check engine, 4wd, and traction/vsc (little car with skid marks) lights went on. I brought it to Toyota and they said it showed P0741 and P1578 (one tranny related, one brake related). Toyota felt strongly it was the torque converter seal and contacted my extended warranty company (not through toyota) for approval for the expensive job. The extended warranty company pushed back and made them run a number of brake diagnostics and after a day and a half of extra diagnostics going back and forth with the extended warranty company, Toyota cleared the codes, drove it, said no lights came back on, and the only thing of note at this point is the transmission fluid has metal shaving that look like "glitter" and they recommend a transmission fluid flush. I had the transmission fluid flushed by the same dealership on 3/11/17 with 63,472 miles at the time. 24 hours ago they were pretty sure it was the torque converter seal, but now with the codes not showing back up, they recommend either simply doing the flush, or doing nothing and driving it to see if anything comes back up. Here's what worries me the most, is why are there metal shavings that look like glitter only 9 months and 14,000 miles after a flush? If it matters, we bought it used from a non-Toyota dealership about 2 years ago with about 36k miles and are completely up to date with diff fluid, transfer case fluid, ATF, and oil changes. We prefer to drive our cars into the ground when fiscally appropriate - my 07 prius has 194k miles on it.

    I guess I'm looking at 4 options here:
    1. Pay the diagnostic fee, do nothing, drive it and see if it throws the codes again
    2. Do the flush, drive it and see if it throws the codes again
    3. 1 or 2 and drive it up until right before the extended warranty runs out and sell it based on tranny failure fears
    4. Sell it now based on tranny failure fears

    Thoughts? Am I missing any viable options? Thanks!
     

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    #1 Cdgreg, Dec 28, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2017
  2. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Who is the extended warranty company?

    I get letters from them every so often and I'm thinking of returning your experience. ... not really. Any response positive or negative is treated as a sales lead.

    Bob Wilson
     
  3. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    I'd lean away from having the company do another flush, presuming they did the first one, and I'm with the warranty folks on waiting to see if the codes recur.
    I'm a little suspicious of a company that donked you for a transmission flush at 63K (caveat: I do not know what the schedule of maintenance calls for) and then wants to do it again 15,000 miles later.
    WHY?
    First of all....people who use the words "flush" with transmission fluid change bother me a little.
    Yes.....it has a torque converter and so it's a little more complicated than changing the engine oil, but you're still essentially removing the "old" fluid and replacing it with new......and in your case the fluid is only 15,000 miles old!
    So......this means that it's very unlikely that the fluid is in any way worn - which is the only reason that you would change it out!!
    If your transmission is manufacturing glitter.....and I'm a little suspicious about that(!)....then I would let the manufacturing process continue, since it's going to get you to the same place in the end..........transmission replacement.....fluid and all.

    Swapping out the fluid now will not alter the trajectory of this outcome, and anyone in the business of repairing automobiles who would recommend such a procedure with your described circumstances is guilty of gross incompetence AT LEAST....or.......worse.

    My recommendation: (street price <$0.02) Evaluate your 12v battery for possible replacement. Drive until the codes recur and see if there's any repeatability in the symptoms.

    Fire your dealer and establish a relationship with an independent mechanic.

    Good Luck!
     
    RCO likes this.
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    if they did a flush in the spring, and are recommending another, since they can't find anything else, i have to assume that that is their standard operating procedure. flush your wallet to buy more glitter.
    time for a new dealer, methinks.
    also, another blow to extended warranties.
     
    RCO likes this.