12V battery group size

Discussion in 'Gen 4 Prius Main Forum' started by christiandflores, Nov 9, 2017.

  1. ekpolk

    ekpolk What could possibly...

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    Jesus complex or not, today's "back from school" mileage caused me to do a double take!
    [​IMG]
     
  2. alanclarkeau

    alanclarkeau Senior Member

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    To be honest - I wouldn't worry about sourcing another battery till it dies - which could well be another 5 years. As you said, it's got a long warranty - I'd be heading down that path and have it replaced with an identical battery to the original.

    As I said - my FOCUS sat in the caryard for much longer than yours did, and the battery lasted for a long, long time.

    You ask "Why aren't other batteries available" in USA (I assume in Australia etc too)? I'd suspect because non-genuine manufacturers wouldn't see it as commercially viable with PRIUS 4 being so new, and only sporadic failures at this stage, most of which could well be warranty - so they'd have stock sitting around just "waiting" for months or even years. Which nobody will want to buy. Like other non-genuine parts for any car, you can't buy them till well after the car has been released - I've seen them not being available for 3 or 4 years.

    Also remember the PRIUS 4 comes with a NON-AGM battery.
     
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  3. katpat23

    katpat23 New Member

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    My 2016’s just died, too - similar to yours where it was dead from kids playing music in the car without the motor running one day and started a series of lesser and lesser ability to cope with, say, groceries being unloaded from the car or doors open a short time.

    So before I go further with today’s 5-hour saga about getting it replaced, let me just praise this thread as the ONLY sane bit of crucial information anyone told me today out of a battery shop, a Japanese car repair place, and my local Toyota service center.

    NOT A SOUL BELIEVED ME THAT THE 12v BATTERY WAS IN THE FRONT ENGINE COMPARTMENT.

    I had to drive to them all, pop the hood, and say “Look! A battery!”

    Making matters worse is Toyota had none in stock and the part was on back order with NO idea when they’d get one.

    They were on the verge of renting me a vehicle for free while I waited for one to come in, but while waiting in the lobby (with coffee and yummy just-baked cookies) for them to run the in-depth battery test, I came across THIS thread that FINALLY made sense.

    I told Toyota I’d get back to them about the $300 estimate for their parts and labor, drove 2 miles down the road to the Advanced Auto Parts store, purchased a gold H4 as mentioned in THIS thread for about $160, which they then fitted for free, and from entering the door to driving away, took 12 minutes.

    So thank you thank you thank you!!

    (Pic is factory-installed battery label)
     

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  4. ekpolk

    ekpolk What could possibly...

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    Great to hear that you found a readily available solution! Situations like this prove the value of these forums!

    Fairly irritating, isn't it, when someone believes they "know it all," -- and don't. . . Of course, I would never exhibit such arrogance. I used to be conceited -- but now I'm perfect! ;)
     
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  5. ATHiker

    ATHiker Senior Member

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    How about a real simple question?

    What does the owner’s manual mean when it warns not to disconnect the negative (-) terminal ON THE BODY SIDE ??? 3C114758-9356-4229-A126-B916BE3D1917.png
     
  6. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Each cable (+) and (-) has two ends. One end connects at the battery and the other connects on the car. Typically the (+) cable connects at a main fuse box/distribution panel, and the (-) cable attaches somewhere on the car body/frame.

    It means to disconnect the negative cable at the terminal of the battery, NOT to disconnect the 'body' end of the cable instead. The concern is the cable is long enough that if you disconnect the "car body" end, it could reach the positive terminal of the battery and cause a SIGNIFICANT current discharge, resulting in sparks, molten copper flying, etc, especially if the cable end welds itself to the terminal, which I have seen happen. It takes a lot of current to make a 2 gauge cable act like a fuse. The insulation pretty much instantly burns off and then the copper cable vaporizes, with small liquid copper balls flying everywhere.
     
    #186 TMR-JWAP, Jan 27, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2019
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  7. ATHiker

    ATHiker Senior Member

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    Stil confused.

    Chargers have the cables hard wired to them, right?

    If they were talking about regular 2-ended jumper cables, I am even more confused about “body side”.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    I think it's a real long shot, that the negative cable would snake around and contact the positive terminal. Still, I'd agree, play it real safe and disconnect at the post. I also like to stuff the loose cable end into a heavy leather work glove, insulate and prevent it moving around.

    Electricity never sleeps: one time I was tightening a negative cable to a post with a ratchet wrench, the wrench handle touched a wire that was running back to the positive cable: loud bang and puff of smoke, that wire half gone, yikes.

    Wearing a face mask is a good idea. Also don't wear rings or watches.
     
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  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    the manual is not talking about a charger, it is talking about the cable that goes from the 12 volt negative to the body (ground)
     
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  10. ATHiker

    ATHiker Senior Member

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    OK, I think I have got it.

    I did not appreciate that one might remove a car battery in any way other than by sliding the collar with wires off the respective battery terminal.
     
  11. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    If it is written in the manual I bet someone shorted out the battery with the ground lead.
    Everything has to do with liability.
    I always thought that some day they would pass laws to keep people from working on their own cars kind of like an airplane.
     
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