12v battery questions

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by misterdean, Nov 19, 2018.

  1. misterdean

    misterdean Junior Member

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    thanks for the information. just goes to show how little i know about my car. learning quite a bit from this forum. no alternator was another shock. in all my years of driving i have always changed according to miles. do you guys actually follow this 5K or 6 months? to be honest i don't think i'm going to. i've read plenty of threads from mechanics and car enthusiasts that say full synthetic can be good for 8-10K and the manual is too conservative and doesn't take in to consider what type of oil you are using. some studies even say up to 15K and if you look at mobil website is says protects for 15,000 miles between oil changes
     
    #41 misterdean, Nov 20, 2018
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2018
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Titanic Social Director

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    Time vs distance does start to fall apart, if you've got a near-mothballed car. But if you're doing light but regular use, where months would come up first, I would play by the rules: it's miles or months, whichever comes first, for a crude but reasonable reason: if you're low miles, chances are you're not getting the car warmed up half the time, and/or the effects of protracted downtime are impacting the engine: oil drained off cylinder walls, rust, whatever.

    Our Canadian 2010 has oil change interval same as the second generation States, so every spring and fall I slam in fresh oil and filter, and it's only 5000 kms, at the most, these days for us.

    Honda has a cool system, called the Maintenance Minder. It apparently monitors multiple factors, not just miles, and counts down in percent to the next maintenance. And when that conter gets down to 15% remaining, it not only says service is needed, but displays an alpha/numeric code as to what services. Keeps the service departments honest..., well honester.

    There is one proviso in the Owner's Manual: if the Maint. Minder does not reach zero within a year, do an oil change anyway.
     
    #42 Mendel Leisk, Nov 20, 2018
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2018
  3. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    What they are selling is lower frequency/inconveience and overall cost with the "high mileage" programs. They utterly fail to consider that there are two and only two ways to rid engine oil of accumulated moisture (which I guarantee you have in spades living in FL); they are: 1) Drive it to full operating temperature EVERY trip, and/or 2) Drain the oil (oil change). The type of oil is completely 100% irrelevant to that factor.

    More to the point, the only miles that *really matter* are those operated with oil temperature lower than about 200*F, all those above are essentially "free" when it comes to calculating oil change intervals. Therefore, ultra-low mileage vehicles should actually have their oil changed MORE than "normal" or high mileage vehicles for many technical reasons.
     
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    with mobil one, i'd poly go every other year. how much life does an '06 have anyway?
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    At the risk of belaboring what's been covered upthread, the point is, you can have a tool as accurate as you please, and if you use that accurate tool to measure the voltage at two places in the car where the voltage is different, you will get different readings. If you didn't, the tool wouldn't be accurate. :)

    The MFD is located at a place in the car's wiring where the voltage (when the converter isn't operating) is about 0.6 volts less than at the battery terminals, and that is the voltage it shows you.

    I'm saying "about 0.6 volts" but the true offset is (a) larger in ON than it is in ACC, (b) larger with more electrical loads running, and (c) may be slightly different from one individual car to another. You can learn what it is in your car one time by comparing to a multimeter at the battery, if you feel you need to pin it down more narrowly than "about 0.6". Then just remember it, along with whether you were in ACC or ON at the time, and what electric loads were on. Match the conditions and it's pretty consistent.

    -Chap
     
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  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    on the plus side, you're doing a little load test at the same time

    gen 3 does not have this feature, does it?
     
  7. misterdean

    misterdean Junior Member

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    here is the results of the previous battery which was tested while not installed and the new battery which was tested in the vehicle. keep in mind both of these batteries were recently slow charged. i asked why it shows measured was higher than rated. dude told me he just put 400 as the rated CCA without checking it. the battery i have is 325. could 478 be realistic? he acted like what he entered for rated didn't matter measured was what i care about.
     

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  8. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    That confirms the old battery was no longer serviceable.

    Yes, it matters! Well, it *might not* matter if the tester does not change the test based on the capacity entered, however most modern "smart testers" very much DO alter the test regimen to ensure the load placed on the battery is comparable with it's rating.

    However, it is not too uncommon for new, fresh batteries to test above their rating. The manufacturer's do warrant them, so they benefit by having some "extra" capacity in the battery when new, as long as the warranty savings are not outweighed by the added costs.
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Titanic Social Director

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    I've tested our OEM Yuasa battery with my Solar BA5. There nothing on the battery indicated rated CCA. I've searched, and I think it might be 310~325, something like that. I usually enter 325 when testing it. I've kept it around, just out of curiousity, charge it up once in a while. And yeah, it's not uncommon for batteries to better than rated. My current Yellow Top indicates close to 100 than higher (CCA) IIRC. The old Yuasa measures maybe 290~300 still.

    It's still odd, the tester indicates the new battery has voltage of 12.43, kinda low.
     
  10. misterdean

    misterdean Junior Member

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    i'm not happy about that either. dude also said some brand new batteries flirt with 13v. not sure if this is relevant information, but if you look at the bottom of that print out you can see he tested the charging system and he said that looks good.
     
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  11. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    it is relevant if it is a new battery. fully charged should be around 13 with no load, otherwise defective

    mine still measures 12.7 after 6 years
     
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