2 Time Alignment Fail, Right Front Caster Off.

Stuck again. Gonna take a break for today. My dog looks like he feels neglected and he was diagnosed with terminal cancer...

Upside down castle nut ALMOST gave me enough surface for my 6" C-clamp. Emphasis on almost! Maybe I need to buy a smaller clamp...

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This is getting pricey tool wise. Found a ball joint separator now on loan from AutoZone, (had to drive to one somewhat far away to borrow it). I needed the inverted castle nut to get get a grip as the fork is not wide enough to straddle the ball joint. Unfortunately eventually the tool bent the lip of the nut, and shot outwards. Luckily I was thoughtful enough to not have any body parts in the area. Tool is fine I just need to clean up a little grease and can return it. I drove to the Econo Super Store I mentioned yesterday and picked up the $94.99 plus tax press kit. It has a piece that lines up really nicely with the large bushing. Now I found a Ball Joint Separator kit by Baum Tools for $287.07 which has wider forks: 24 mm, 27 mm, 31 mm, and 36 mm. Seems likely this would work but it's the ONLY ONE I can find.

Thoughts- With the lower arm removed there is a lot of play with what is left. Almost like a pendulum it can be rotated around quite a few degrees from center. From this I deduce any castor issue is due to the lower control arm or it's attachment to the frame. Nothing else is to blame. Either the arm is bent, those bushings got distorted, or the attachment to the frame or frame is bent. The arm has an interesting "218" scribed on it. I wonder if this car was in some sort of accident before we took (new) delivery, and it was replaced. I guess the strut could be bent but given it flexes around seems highly unlikely...

Ugh, my parents will be out of a car for a few days more. Not too bad though they are retired...

 

The Baum 31mm tool and the other screw did work and it's out! The original screw you crank down on had some thread damage but while I wait for a replacement the other screw fit and worked! Be careful it can shoot out once it gives....

Now to retrieve my new castle nut from the dealer. Parts guy ordered the wrong part I will walk the dog there...

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Debating on the brake pads. I have a set in stock. For less than 35k mi this is extreme wear for a Prius v as I understand!

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Ball joint back in couldn't fit a torque wrench on a crows foot (19 mm), tightened as tight as possible with a long box wrench, had recently purchased a set from Harbor Freight.

I'm stuck:

Installed the caster bushing as instructed to +0.5 degree. Gave up trying to remove the intact front bushing lubed it with silicone spray and tried to install. No go. Already dark for a while removed the two nuts and one bolt from the arm to ball joint and pulled the arm back out. Gonna try to find my VHT chassis paint, scratched up some areas trying to get it back in. When morning light comes I guess my only hope is to try to compress one rung on the strut spring to relieve pressure. The polyurethane bushing won't bend to fit back in like the rubber one, or maybe after a break while I paint and let dry...

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Whatever you do if you attempt this job do not compress the spring and lift the bottom of the stabilizer bar link. Looks like I bent the rack and pinion. Hopefully nothing else. Costly mistake.

The assembly is now significantly toe out. On the bright side I got the arm in. But didn't try to connect the ball joint/knuckle anymore.

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View attachment 201528 View attachment 201529

 

Just ordered the rack and pinion from my beloved AutoZone online. To save 20% it has to be shipped to your home. For my home address it's 3-5 days. Out of town for a planned Thanksgiving getaway I looked up the part here. AutoZone online says free next day shipping available around here! I tried to order to have it delivered to our hotel but the AZ app says the address here is invalid. Maybe it is concerned about not matching the billing ZIP or recognizes this as a business. Gonna wait the 3-5 days I submitted. Wonder if they'll accept my bent core, that's $90 worth....

There is a possible concern between 16" and 17" tire versions. Turning radius spec is wider on the 17" tire optioned v's.

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Okay. Rack and pinion (Toyota's aka steering gear or gear, steering arrived today). Got the back wheels on ramps and the front on jack stands. Pulled off the wheels, and I'm really worried what I actually bent was the half axle and not the rack/gear. First three pics are the side that looks bent toe out with steering wheel secured straight ahead with seat belt. View attachment 201811 View attachment 201812

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Last three are of the straight side. View attachment 201814 View attachment 201815

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Cyber Monday- Busy getting things done like returning the damaged Baum tool set in person then shopping some at the nearby Costco, I had already ordered my Cyber Monday orders for the cars. Should have come shared AutoZone bumped up to 25% shipped to home orders, but sometimes it is a crap shoot whether they honor that discount code. Not sure it helped but this time I was on a computer and tried paying with PayPal. More on concern in next paragraph.

Ordered the rack the prior Monday with 20% off code the $76 discount showed, but was not actually subtracted from the total! My poor basic math skills didn’t notice I guess, or the total changed on me... So I called customer service and was told it did not qualify! Next morning I guess she tried to help me because I did not make a big fuss there was a $11 credit in my rewards account. Rack arrived last Wednesday or Thursday. I’m not looking forward to lowering the front suspension instructions note to use a lift of some sort to support it and lower it down as it’s heavy.


Sitting there looking at things I guess it’s time to throw a whole bunch of parts at it to make sure I straighten it up as was the goal:

Rock Auto, 5% discount dug up from Retailmenot I believe:

Monroe strut and upper mount.
CV axle from the same warehouse. Hope I don’t regret this choice not familiar with the brand. Saved on shipping. None of the end links were in the same warehouse I passed. (Originally I tried to order @ 20% off the KYB strut from AutoZone but out of stock. Also tried to order the axle at 25% off it was also out of stock. Had to cancel my original Rock Auto order for just the strut and upper mount, then re-order adding the CV axle for combined shipping).

From AutoZone:

Upper control arm for the wife’s Panamera and sway bar end link for the v. Needed the extra cost as the 25% off was on orders $125 and up. The end link is only $47 so did not qualify by itself. Steep compared to Rock Auto, but free shipping.

There is a local mobile mechanic that I sometimes see outside a local AutoZone. May need to enlist his help....

 

Working on lowering the front suspension I decided to try to loosen everything before dropping it all down. Got two motorcycle lifts to help support and manipulate it down. Was able to reach the two bolts holding the rack and pinion, then loosened all the lower control arm bolts.

Toyota TechInfo lied. I tried to remove the left lower control arm so I could press in the new polyurethane bushing but the front bolt contacted what looks to me like the transmission. I couldn't manipulate it out like I worried might happen.

Looking to loosen the tie rod ends before dropping. Anyone have advise how? (TIA).

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Got the tie rod ends out, but grease leaked out so sourcing replacements. For the first time AutoZone online price is lower than in store so kind of bummed.

I am now suspecting the "suspension cross member subassembly" is the item that is bent, the part I am trying to lower. Sigh. That's one expensive part:
51201-12442 .

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Well, there are a zillion of the cross members listed on http://www.car-part.com, made a run to get one at less than $100. Not sure it is in better shape than the one that is there, at least I could feel how heavy it is. (It's quite heavy for me). Definitely have to be careful when I finally lower the setup as the lower control arms come down with it, meaning too heavy for me...

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Wondering if I'll be able to put everything back together, the cross member is down. I removed the nuts to the rack because of poor clearance with the rubber pucks. View attachment 202279

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One shot bushing replacement. Used the new SuperPro bushing to press out the old one and press in at the same time. Bushing does not change caster otherwise can't do this.

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That tool set cost me almost as much as a hydraulic press at Harbor Freight might have. It also gave me a significant workout even with the longish ratcheting wrenches I was working with. Just to clarify the old bushings stick out, and the Super Pro is designed in pieces so this could be done. It's so much easier manipulating the pieces such as the lower control arm dropping this sucker. (A picture of my salvage yard take. I put the screws there lest I get confused which ones go there. Hoping I didn't already mix up with the steering rack).

All the while my dad is without his car for the last two weeks. But kind of good because of COVID, to be stuck at home...

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Anyone might possibly have SST 09670-00010-01 FRONT CROSS MEMBER GUIDE TOOL for me to borrow. It says not in stock on toyota.service-solutions.com with an estimated ship date of 1/18/2021. I'd offer lunch or something in compensation? Thanks in advance!

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