2 x 12" Kenwood Subs and 750w Inverter

i love it.... was your inner speaker wire tapping against the cone or was that the mic clipping because it couldn't pick it up?

 

You and your late night tailgate parties.

 

Is that porn or a rap/reggaeton video? lol

 

cool. you've never had the 12v feed clip out on you?

do you hear your battery fan a lot?

i assume you leave the car fully on. do you leave the hood up so all the heat doesn't built up around the inverter? (the ice can get pretty hot too)

i would leave the rear passenger window open too. (can't tell in your photos) since heat is being generated in the rear, it makes a pocket in the cab if the windows are closed. opening that window should pull cold air in for the battery.

any clue how many watts you're using overall?
from what i've tested, a prius will take 10 to 12 hours to burn a gallon of fuel while sitting... (maybe radio and screen on too... results didn't change too much)
if i'm pulling 900 or so watts out of the inverter, it can burn a gallon every hour and a half to 3 hours. (a few blackout test powering heaters and vents for a quadriplegic through the night)... everything in between those loads tends to be semi predictable based off those two.

i've tested a few other things too. a lot of work tools, heaters, radios, tvs, air compressors... (small one)

 

You are speaking in terms of peak wattage. That is not what you actually drive the subs with. Rated power for those subs is 400w/ea. continuous power or also called RMS power. So when you purchase a quality amp that is the number you are looking for. Peak wattage doesn't mean squat. Therefore, what you need is an amp that puts out as close to 800w RMS as possible for maximum woofer output without damaging it.

Peak power is basically just a spike in power output. It's like seeing your MPG indicator jump to 100+ when you go down a slight incline but it is very short lived and quickly returns to 50. Overall your mpg is 50.

 

ok...

most tv's pull 240 to 360 watts... and your speaker system probably doesn't pull too many amps as a steady load. even if the tv did pull 30 amps (dc), you have roughly 60 amps left over for the system and i doubt it pulls that.

i give the heat warning because i've noticed the system does get hot overall and those little methods keeps it pretty cool. (almost seems to charge better)

on a full load, 12 hours later, the ice sound like it's lost oil, and things get hot, so fans run more, which is wasting more electricity in the end... both in running the cooling equipment and inefficiencies because everything is warmer...

the test isn't your gas gauge.. it's your end mpg numbers for that tank. if you were pulling a constant heavy load, you would notice your mpg average for the tank drop up by about 10mpg. once you figure that out, it's backwards math to see how much fuel you've lost.

 

That has nothing to do with underpowering the subs. When an amp overheats like that is is usually due to a few problems:

1. Undersized wiring. The power and ground cables are not correctly sized to the amp. A true 1000w amp will require a 4ga if under 10ft. in length. If over 10ft. you should be using a 2ga or 0ga wire.
2. Poor grounding. grounding to sheet metal may not be good enough for high powered amps. Try grounding somewhere else.
3. Amplifier is not getting sufficient airflow across the cooling fins/heat sink.
4. The subwoofers are wires in such a way so as to create a low ohm load that the amp cannot handle. Cheap amps claim 2ohm capability but that is in stereo mode. If you wire it bridged mono it cannot handle the lower ohm load and will over heat. e.g. you are running a cheap amp and it has a 2ohm capability but you wire your subs (4ohm each) in parallel which will now create a 2ohm mono load. You now run those two wires to your 2channel amp and the amp is now running mono/bridged and it cannot handle the thermal load because it is putting out too much power. The amp will routinely shut down when driven hard.
5. The signal going to the amp is too high and causes the amp to clip which could trigger the thermal shut down. When setting the gain controls on an amplifier, you should have the stereo volume at approx. 3/4 or just below maximum volume, no bass level adjustments and playing a bass heavy song, then you start with the gains on the amp at 0 and slowly increase the gain until you hear the subs breaking up or you have achieved your desired volume.

If you are having trouble with the subs and amp at 50% volume then you did not adjust your settings correctly. I worked in the high end car audio business from 1993 to 2005.

 

What amps are you using?

 

I have a technical question: How do you ghost ride that?

 

Ok, that makes sense.

I think you are right about under powering the subs. I looked up the 1200w version of your amp and it actually puts out 480w continuous power. That means each sub only gets 240w. What exact model do you have and are you running it bridged or is it a monoblock amp?