2001 no ready light/no codes/where to go

Any module that falls below 7.2V after being charged to full needs to be replaced. Best practice is to charge all 38 modules to full, wait a few days, and look for modules that have dropped by several .1's of a V compared to their peers. By 14.4V I assume you mean battery block voltage as measured by the ECU (two modules).

What about the 12V? If it was sitting for several months, it is garbage. Have you replaced it, or at least removed it from the car and connected the terminals to a jump pack or a conventional flooded battery?

 

Welcome new poster. If not done yet, get a good 12-volt source connected before trying to start up again. My memory becomes vague, but I guess that one HV battery mark should be enough to spin up the engine.

Seilerts is right about downward drift of block voltages. it is not the only problem they could present, but the others might not impede a tratup.

Down the road from you in the SF bay area are two fine indie shops. Art's (Oakland) and Luscious garage (SF). They might, via email, be able to make some good suggestions.

Keep us posted and don't get stung by that big battery!

 

That's a good price for two Gen II batteries. Sounds like you've got it under control.

 

Re: update

A great idea to swap batteries to confirm that no other hybrid system issues exist.

Regarding "replace 4-6 of the weakest", if you are going to use G2 traction battery modules I believe you will find that the battery terminals come out of the case at a different height vs. G1 battery modules. Hence if you want to use G2 modules you'll have to install 38 - or else modify the orange bus bars which will probably result in increased internal resistance.

 

Even after recharging the modules, you may find that under load, they will not hold up. There's so much variance among the voltage measurements that I believe you will be better off planning to replace all 38 modules. Good luck.

 

For the block at 0V, are both modules 0V?

Reusability really depends. The gold standard for reconditioning is 3x discharge + charge cycles, e.g. discharge to 6V at 1-5 amps, charge to -dV/dt at 5-7 amps. Some outfits go 5 complete cycles. Plus, have a way to measure the amp hour discharge and see if it is anywhere close to 6.5 amp hours on the final round. This requires a smart charger for automation. If you are hoping to get another 10 years out of the battery, then reconditioning is pretty much mandatory. If you just want a few more years, then a quick charge and module replacement might just work. If it doesn't, then you have the benefit of already knowing what you need to do and how to do it.

Even if you are charging at a low 500 mA, you should be able to get module pairs over 16V. At 14.4V with 500 mA of charging current, they are still near full discharge. However, it ought to be enough to crank the ICE.

 

Get on ebay. There are two sellers of Gen I modules: Taylor Automotive (tautomotive) in NC , and Battery Boy (tedb8) in Healdsburg, CA. The latter are a little more expensive but have been reconditioned, and there is direct contact info if ebay isn't an option.

The batteries are rated for an average of 7.2V at 6.5 amps during discharge. I see them well over 9V when being charged at 5 amps, and still over 8V after resting for a few days.

 

Yay! A happy wife and a working Prius!

 

I know it's been awhile.. Waking thhis post from the dead.. I hope to revive a classic prius...
My wifes prius died.. 12v was dead.. and no bars on HV battery..
I put a new 12v in.. will not go to ready.. blinking gas guage.. no bars on HV in the screen...

So your HV ecu was the culprit? and the HV charged again?

 

if you have a blinking gas gauge, no bars on HV bars on the screen and it won't go into ready mode, means there is a super good chance that someone ran the car out of fuel and drained the HV battery while still driving the car with no gas.

Best of luck.