2001 Prius has 2 keys, one for door and one for ignition

Is one a valet key? I'm sure someone can re-key a door but it would be a very good idea to get a second key made from Toyota. I hear a key there will cost you about $100 whereas re-coding a set of new keys will run much higher than that if you lost the one good key. You'll need a proper key so the anti-theft immobilizer doesn't kick in when you start it with a cut key from some hardware store. Why are there two separate keys? Replaced the door after a wreck?

Somebody please correct me if I'm mistaken. In my three weeks of Prius ownership, my knowledge is limited.

 

It sounds like a lock had to be replaced and a new key was provided.

Note that the black key head includes an RFID chip that the Prius immobilizer ECU needs to recognize. Therefore, if you want to get rid of a key it would probably be easier to designate the ignition key as the one that you want to keep. Make sure that the Prius will start with the door key away from the car, to ensure that key is not the one that the immobilizer ECU is recognizing.

Once you have confirmed that, it should be possible to rekey the door and trunk locks to fit the ignition key, you may want to consult a local locksmith about that.

I also suggest that you work on getting a second key for your Prius so that you will not be in deep trouble if you lose the one working key. That second key needs to be cut properly to fit the locks and the immobilizer ECU has to be programmed to accept it.

 

We need to understand the two keys:

• DOOR KEY - locks and unlocks the doors but it won't turn in the ignition?
• DOOR KEY - turns in the ignition but does not start the car?
• IGNITION KEY - turns in the ignition and starts the car?
• IGNITION KEY - does not turn the door lock?

The door uses a mechanical lock. So if the key has the right shape and teeth, the doors and trunk can be locked and unlocked. Make sure the door key works in the trunk.

The ignition has both a mechanical and electrical RFI lock. The car can learn up to three keys using a complex set of door opening, closings, and key turning IF you have a working key that can turn on the car. So I would proceed as follows:

• DOOR KEY turns in door and ignition but car does not start - the mechanical teeth are OK. You just need to find the instructions on how to 'teach' this key to the car and follow the steps. When done, the problem is solved.
• DOOR KEY turns in door but does not turn in ignition - Patrick's post is accurate and either the ignition lock was replaced or the door. A mechanical locksmith will be needed to put in new pins to make the door and ignition identical ... door (and trunk) should follow the ignition key. Then you get a new, RFI enabled, blank; have it mechanically ground, and; teach it to the car.

GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson

 

Yes, if the remote does not unlock the doors on the driver's side, that implies that the lock actuators need to be replaced or perhaps there is wiring harness damage. The latter is especially likely if the car was in an accident impacting the driver's side of the car.

The lock rekeying is a mechanical process which should not impact the remote, which operates via the transmission and reception of a coded RF signal.

 

I'm sure there are plenty here who would like to take a look at this Prius.

Have any pictures to post?

 

Aftermarket.

 

Here is how the original equipment battery vent works: A plastic fitting is plugged into the side of the battery. This serves as the battery vent.

A short black rubber hose connects to the fitting. The other end of the hose is inserted into a hole that leads to the outside of the car.

 

When I bought my new 2001 Prius it came with three keys. Two had black covers and worked everything. The third one had a gray cover and would not work the trunk. I suppose it was a valet key.

 

You might also do this check on both keys: watch the red security LED next to the sound system, slide the key into the ignition. If the LED goes dark immediately, the car has been taught to recognize the key as a master (allowed to start car, and allowed to teach the car other keys). If it lights solid a couple seconds, then goes out, the car has been taught to recognize it as a sub key (allowed to start the car but not to authorize other keys). Otherwise, it hasn't been taught to the car at all (which could be possible for the one that only opens doors).

The programming is a separate issue from the cut of the key; the one that isn't cut to turn the ignition could still be taught to the car as either a master or a sub, even though that isn't much use while you can't turn it.

To save expense you might keep whichever key turns more locks on the car, and change the other locks to match it. Just make sure you don't get rid of the key that's programmed as master, at least not without programming the other as another master first. And if you discard either key, you might want to delete it from the car's allowed list, too.

For that matter, rather than discarding the key you don't need, you might program it in as a master and keep it in a safe place in case you ever lose the other. Even if it won't turn the locks you'll be able to use it to program in a newly cut key. Lose your last master and that gets more expensive.

-Chap