2001 shuttering to start, won't move in drive.

Jump start the car and disconnect. As the car runs, measure the 12V voltage. If it is 13.8-13.9V from the DC-to-DC converter that charges the 12V, drive home but have the jumper car follow.

Bob Wilson

 

That's not what I mean. There is a scangauge XGAUGE for retrieving the State-of-Charge of the traction battery - the 274 volt one. Have you ever programmed any XGAUGEs into your scangauge? You would remember if you had - it's like trying to send a text message of like 40 numbers and letters using an old flip phone with four buttons. The only good thing about it is only having to do it once.

You can give each XGAUGE whatever name you want, but if you stuck with the suggestions, that one would be named "soc". It reads in a percentage, usually around 60, normally not below 40 or above 80. This number will go down with every unsuccessful attempt you make to start your car, and when it gets down below 20% or so, you won't be making any more attempts, successful or not.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to check what it is right now.

-Chap

 

Post 145 still strikes me as being on the table, no?

-Chap

 

I'll have to defer and hope somebody chimes in who's dealt with wet fuel IRL. I'm sure it can cause misfires in certain proportions, and stuff like HEET helps (again in certain proportions), but I just don't have any experience with what the limits are.

If it were me, I would probably want to satisfy myself about whether wet fuel even was or wasn't the problem, by getting some to pump out of the fuel rail into a glass and letting it stand to see if it separates. But actually getting to the right connections to complete that test is a knucklescraping PITA....

-Chap

 

Try and obtain the subcode (INF code) for 3120.

 

Sounds like a plan, C clay.
Sorry to hear how things have progressed.

 

That was me, last night. Purchase + new exhaust + new front tires + new MFD (salvage, thankfully) + replaced cluster finish panel (broke when I did the MFD) = ~$7000 car that's worth damn near nothing, and has a power steering problem (which I can't get Toyota to address) to boot.

I feel like I'm throwing good money after bad with this car.

 

Unless you work on the Gen1 yourself and have access to cheap salvage parts (or have a cheap mechanic that uses salvage parts) Gen1's are pretty much done at this point in time (June 2015). If you live in an area where dealer service is your only option I suggest you sell the car.

They are all getting old and need lots of love to keep running happy.

 

Usually folks wait until after purchase to read my essay on who should own an NHW11.

Bob Wilson

 

It is too bad this thread did not have a good ending. I am having similar issues after a huge rain storm and suspecting water in the gas tank. I guess I will find out soon enough when I run the codes.