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2002 prius - battery block 8 becomes weak - which cell?

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by romanlutsk, May 14, 2015.

  1. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    After fixing the connection problem with my battery a week ago, now the ECU throws the P3006 and P3018 error codes after driving for about 5-10 mi. I bought a replacement cell on ebay, but cannot figure out which one to replace.

    I did a load testing with a 55W bulb and all cells hold pretty well at 7.5-7.8v. Techstream still reports the battery block 8 as the one with the lowest voltage in most cases, but it differs from others by about 0.01-0.05v.

    So, how would I find out which cell to replace exactly? I assume the battery blocks get counted from the driver side, proceeding to the right (1st block is right besides the fuse, etc).

    Also, is it possible that some oxidation on the terminals could case the P3006 and P3018 codes? I just cleaned it with a steel brush and some rubbing alcohol, so will need to see if the codes come back when I start driving tomorrow.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It turns out not to be necessary to know which cell is bad, because you can only replace in groups of six cells anyway - that's how many NiMH cells are in one of the 7.2 volt rectangular modules that are assembled into your battery - 38 modules total (228 cells).

    If you looked closely at the wiring, you've probably already seen that the computer only divides the battery into 19 blocks for voltage measurements - each block is two adjacent modules (or 12 cells). If it is detecting a problem in block 8, that would direct your attention to modules 15 or 16 - is that where you were looking?

    What does Techstream say about the series resistance of the different blocks, in addition to their voltages?

    -Chap
     
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  3. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Yes, sorry, I meant the 7.2v replaceable modules.

    Yes, exactly, but how do I find which one - 15 or 16?

    Exactly the same for each block - 0.2 Ohm.
     
    #3 romanlutsk, May 14, 2015
    Last edited: May 14, 2015
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Maybe shuffle a few modules so those two end up in different blocks, and see what the ECU has to say about that?

    -Chap
     
  5. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The module voltage difference is measured under load of discharge and charging at high currents (50/60 amps).
    Also check with an ohm meter the sense wires from modules 15 and 16 back to the ECU connector. These break at the point where they join the eye terminal on the bus bars, and are very difficult to spot. A broken wire gives a false reading for that module pair.

    John
     
  6. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    that's a great idea, thanks!
     
  7. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Great points, thanks. Will check and report back.
     
  8. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    I stand corrected, the battery block resistance, as reported by Techstream is 0.02 Ohm, not 0.2 Ohm, as I wrote earlier.

    Sense wires on the terminals seem ok.
     
  9. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    When you say the sense wires on the terminals seem ok did you test or just look?
    The modules are counted from the ECU end.

    John
     
    #9 Britprius, May 14, 2015
    Last edited: May 14, 2015
  10. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Both. I removed each wire and tested continuity all the way to the ECU plug - all fine. There was some oxidation/residue on the back of the eye terminals, that I cleaned.

    So, I'm going to replace one of the modules in block 8 (I'll start with 15) with the one I just got from ebay and see if that stops the error from appearing again. If not, I'll replace the other one.
     
  11. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Funny thing - after I cleaned all the terminals/contacts, the error message doesn't appear any more, even with the old battery. I drove it pretty hard on the highway (up to 80 mph, for over 15 mi) and it's still ok. The battery block 8 is still the lowest voltage, but the difference now is only about 0.15v. I guess I'll watch it for a while - perhaps buying a new battery module was too soon.
     
  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Did you move any of the modules around -- i. e. did you swap module 8 with module 15, e. g.?

    Or did you just clean up all the terminals/contacts and put it back together?
     
    #12 dolj, May 15, 2015
    Last edited: May 15, 2015
  13. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Only cleaned the bus contacts and nuts, nothing else - didn't even disassemble the battery
     
  14. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Good to know, hopefully that is enough.
     
  15. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    A little obscure, there is an "ini" (if memory serves me right) that can be edited to increase the duration of data recording. The default is ~240 seconds but a much larger value allows it to run long enough to get a good commute record.

    Bob Wilson
     
  16. 3prongpaul

    3prongpaul Hybrid Shop Owner, worked on 100's of Prius's

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    The car only looks at the block level (2 modules). It's easiest to replace both modules when you have a bad block, and if suspect modules were in the middle of the pack best to move them to the "easy end" of the pack case you need to replace them again (and to help with heat dissipation since modules in the middle can run hotter than at the ends)

    For those who cannot figure out which end of battery is which, If you look closely on the inside base of the gen1 battery enclosure there are numbers stamped into the case every 5 modules which help with orientation. There are 38 modules, each block is two modules so if "block 8" is bad you'll want to replace modules 15 & 16. There is no stamping on other Prius packs (Gen2 and 3 etc). You can also confirm which block is which by comparing sense wire color with wiring diagram.
     
  17. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    Yes, your code could have been caused by dirty or corroded sensing wires, but it would not be my first guess.

    With Techstream you can look at live battery data while under charge and discharge. To get to the the live data first run a health check, then click on the battery category, then data list. Weak module pairs will stand out with larger voltage swings. With this test you do not have to pay attention to both driving and Techstream. Static module voltage does not give a complete a picture of module health.

    Charge test : Engine on, set parking brake, car in drive, step on gas and brake fully. Your car will just sit still and charge. Give it about thirty seconds to a minute. The weak module pair voltage will rise faster and higher than the rest.

    Discharge test: Car on and warmed up, engine off, set parking brake, car in reverse, step on the brake, give it a little gas but not so much that the gas engine turns on. The car will sit still and discharge the battery. Give it about a minute. The weak module pairs will drop in voltage faster and farther.

    Brad
     
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  18. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Thanks for all the ideas.
    Yes, I did the discharge test before and watched the voltages live with Techstream. However, after cleaning the bus bars/nuts, everything works great for a few weeks already. So, it looks like it was a false alarm with the battery block failing. I still have the replacement I bought, just in case.
     
  19. Garvin

    Garvin Junior Member

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    Hi romanlutsk. How is the battery performing now after a couple months? We're there any symptoms before the errors popped up?
     
  20. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Thanks for checking-in. Surprisingly, the battery is doing great and there were no problems/error codes since.

    By symptoms you mean less power to the drive train? I don't recall anything like that.