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2003 Prius Won't Start after HV Battery Replacement

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by jmotley, May 18, 2016.

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  1. jmotley

    jmotley New Member

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    I have a 2003 Prius and replaced one of the failing batteries in my HV battery pack in hope that would fix the car. It now will not start, with the battery reinstalled, and I have a p3030 code being thrown. Also, after sitting for a night, the main display goes black and has 'waves' in it when it does show. When I turn the switch on there's a clicking noise coming from the area around the battery.

    *It may be worth mentioning that I used a power drill to remove/reinstall screws and bolts on the battery pack itself, including the bus-bars.

    Any help I thank you for in advance!

    20160518_113111.jpg

    20160518_113124.jpg
     
    #1 jmotley, May 18, 2016
  2. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    #2 S Keith, May 18, 2016
  3. jmotley

    jmotley New Member

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    12V As in the regular 2 post car battery? Also, I edited my original post to include the fact that I used a drill to remove/reinstall parts on the battery, could that have 'snapped' a high voltage line connection?
     
    #3 jmotley, May 18, 2016
  4. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Yes and Yes.

    If you over-torqued the nuts (48 in-lb), any number of bad things can happen including module damage.
     
    #4 S Keith, May 18, 2016
  5. jmotley

    jmotley New Member

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    Thanks for your help!!!
    The 12V battery has 11.5V, last night it was 12.5V. I left everything connecting hoping that it needed to "sit for an hour" as I saw in another thread on this forum.

    If I damaged one of the connections to the bus-bar, like what happened in the article you linked, then is it possible to replace that tabbed connector piece or is the entire bus-bar required in that case?
     
    #5 jmotley, May 18, 2016
  6. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    The bus bars are the small copper pieces that join adjacent modules. The issue you have is with the sensing wires as described in the article. You can attempt to repair the connection yourself. First, you have to locate which of the 19 connections is at issue. If you have techstream, you should be able to see which block is the problem Torque Pro for Android with the Gen1 extended PIDs will also get you that information. A more permanent repair is to replace that harness per the article.

    A fully charged healthy 12V battery shouldn't be much below 11.9V when initially loaded. I recommend you charge your 12V to be certain.

    Good luck,

    Steve
     
    #6 S Keith, May 18, 2016
  7. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    I would really suspect whether or not the orange safety plug is properly installed. Search the forum for the correct procedure.
     
    #7 usnavystgc, May 18, 2016
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  8. jmotley

    jmotley New Member

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    Thanks for the reply, I am pretty sure I did this correctly, and I did a search when I started having problems last night and found the correct procedure for a 2nd gen Prius but couldn't find the same information for a 1st gen.
     
    #8 jmotley, May 18, 2016
  9. jmotley

    jmotley New Member

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    I am going to charge the battery and hope for the best. Is the p3030 code like the p3006 code at all, in the sense that it could be thrown for some general issue? Or is it specifically in reference to the connections? Thanks again!
     
    #9 jmotley, May 18, 2016
  10. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    According to that article, it's very specific. Again, with techstream or torque pro, you could confirm it.
     
    #10 S Keith, May 18, 2016
  11. jmotley

    jmotley New Member

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    By torque pro do you mean the Android app? *Sorry didn't see it in the above post.
    What kind of device do I need to run that software? Will any OBD2 to bluetooth scanner run that software?
     
    #11 jmotley, May 18, 2016
    Last edited: May 18, 2016
  12. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Yes. and Yes. I use this one:



    Not sure if it matters as I suspect they're basically all the same cheap chinese clones inside, but these have served me faithfully.

    Note that I have modified the extended PID file available on this site. I edited the descriptions with a "G1-" prefix, so I know it's G1 specific and doesn't overlap with the Gen2 file... which I have edited with a "G2-" prefix...

    Note also that I have had trouble on my own '03 and another with BOTH techstream and this reader. They have both worked periodically. I don't know if it's the connector or what. I just haven't cared enough to dig deeper.

    If you go that route and want to use my CSV file, it's here.

    Again, it's identical to the original with the exception of a "G1-" prefix to every label.
     
    #12 S Keith, May 18, 2016
  13. greasemonkey007

    greasemonkey007 Active Member

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    I remember finding a burnt wiring harness in a couple of 01 models. You need to check the wiring harness that runs down the side of the battery pack for burnt or broken wires/connectors.

    Also, I've found that most of the 1st gen modules that I've tested are no good any more. When I rebuild a 1st gen pack, I use 38 2nd gen modules. You need to test all your modules or you may be right back in there soon. You could even burn another harness or connector, if that is what it turns out to be in this case.
     
    #13 greasemonkey007, May 18, 2016
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  14. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    These are excellent points, and not just on Gen1 but Gen2 as well. Just as important as evidence of burning is the presence of corrosion. Inspect the harness connector where it plugs into the ECU for evidence of corrosion on any of the pins. Additionally check the ECU pins for similar corrosion. Presence of corrosion at this interface is believed to be the predecessor to fires at the ECU. I use a 20X jeweler's loupe.
     
    #14 S Keith, May 18, 2016
  15. jmotley

    jmotley New Member

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    I tried charging the 12V battery up and I'm getting the same result, no attempt to start by the car and funny clicking noise.

    I ordered an OBD2 to USB from Amazon today, it was included in the list of supported models on Torque Pro's website.
     
    #15 jmotley, May 18, 2016
  16. jmotley

    jmotley New Member

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    The wiring harness wasn't burnt, but there was some buildup on the terminals of some batteries. Unless that is what you're referring to?
     
    #16 jmotley, May 18, 2016
  17. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    OBD2 to USB? Why?

    Please link.
     
    #17 S Keith, May 18, 2016
  18. DRACO

    DRACO Member

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    It really sounds like you will need to tear down and re-vist your steps, those module nuts require specific torque, maybe a nut is loose if you are lucky.
     
    #18 DRACO, May 18, 2016
  19. jmotley

    jmotley New Member

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    I have a hunch that my drill broke one of the tabs that go behind the nuts on the bus-bar, especially since that is what my code indicates. I am going to try the OBD2 tool. I will look at them when I tear down the battery again thought, thanks for the reply.

    added picture of print screen because I can't add links to my posts yet.

    Found those two on the same site, plus it was much cheaper than the OBD2 bluetooth units, it supports Torque pro. Had to buy a USB to Micro-USB adapter for my Android phone.

    Ctrl+f this --> "Working USB Adapters"
     

    Attached Files:

    #19 jmotley, May 18, 2016
  20. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    I've just never tried USB on a phone for that interface. It makes me nervous.
     
    #20 S Keith, May 19, 2016
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