2004 Prius Won't Turn On

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by daghofshi, Oct 30, 2019.

  1. daghofshi

    daghofshi New Member

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    We've had battery issues before - batteries can be finicky in Alaska - so we keep a Battery Tender Jumper with the car to start it, but it's been a few years since we've needed to use it, and certainly not with any regularity.

    The car won't start, and even with the jumpers hooked up and power flowing, no hood light nor interior lights come on.

    I pulled and inspected (as best as I know how) the fuses next to the post under the hood and saw no breaks, although the larger units aren't transparent, so I just inspected the plug prongs on those.

    I have held down the power button for 45 seconds with and without break to reset computer which did nothing, but started with easiest solutions first.

    Should I buy an OBD/OBD-II to get better readings? Don't have the money to get towed to shop. I do not have a trickle charger...yet.
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    Has the vehicle actually been sitting for three (3) years?

    How old is the 12v battery?

    Did you also check the dome fuse?
     
  3. daghofshi

    daghofshi New Member

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    It is used daily.
    I believe the 12v battery (the driving battery in the back, right?) was replaced in 2013.
    I checked all of the fuses under the hood for visible damage, but am not sure if checked dome fuse. I will find that and learn to check it. Thanks!
     
  4. daghofshi

    daghofshi New Member

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    I checked the dome fuse and it is unbroken.
     
  5. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    If the smaller 12v battery in the rear passenger corner of the vehicle is 6 years old, it would be time to replace it.

    Do you have a multi-meter or a voltmeter for testing your used 12v battery?

    You could also remove the 12v battery and take it into a local auto parts store, most will test and charge for free.

    If you are thinking about picking up a tickle charger, it should be AGM compatible and have an output of four (4) amps or less.
     
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  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    why would you not test the battery first, before going to all kinds of more difficult testing?
     
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  7. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Forest amongst the trees;).
     
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  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The car won't start, and even with the jumpers hooked up and power flowing, no hood light nor interior lights come on.

    I'm going with the assumption you have 12v at the underhood jump point, so you may want to verify that.

    With the car completely off, and you have your charger connected to the underhood jump point is the red flashing key visible on the dash? If you open the driver door, does the door ajar light come on?

    If the answer is yes, then check the AM2 fuse again. It's the second 15A fuse from the top on the driverside of the underhood fuse box.
    If the answer is no, then it's likley the dome fuse is smoked.

    If it ends up being the AM2 fuse, then you've likely experienced an inverter cooling water pump failure, which blows that fuse about 50% of the time. Disconnect the pump before you replace the fuse or it will probably just blow again.
     
  9. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Following on from TMR-JWAP's excellent post, when checking fuses, don't just look at them to decide if they're good or not. Use a DMM (digital (or can be analog) multimeter) on the resistance (Ω) setting; use this to check for continuity. This same meter, set to the 20 VDC scale, will be handy to check voltage at various places, including at the jump point in the front and at the actual battery in the back.

    Here are some pictures:

    This is the AM2 fuse:
    Prius Gen II Inverter 2 AM2_Fuse.jpg

    This is the connector to disconnect to isolate the inverter cooling water pump (ICWP):
    Prius Gen II Inverter 3 Power Connector.jpg

    This is where the ICWP is located.
    Prius Gen II Inverter 1 Pump.jpg

    All the best.
     
    #9 dolj, Oct 30, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2019
  10. JayRock_PHX

    JayRock_PHX Member

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    There has been times where I had to replace the fuse panel. Because the main fuse burned out or the whole unit burned out.
     
  11. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    What....? Are you saying you've had to replace the entire underhood fuse box multiple times?

    If that's correct, you have a serious situation going on with your car(s). What kind of situation/symptoms were you experiencing?
     
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  12. JayRock_PHX

    JayRock_PHX Member

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    Not for my own car but for cars I fixed for customers. Sometimes the fusible link burns out or gets damaged possibly somehow related to the AM2 Fuse. Usually when the fusible link burns out it’s easy just to swap out the fuse panel
     
  13. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    That is usually due to a reversed (or otherwise incorrect) jump procedure and doesn't usually require the replacement of the entire fuse box and board, just replacement of the fusible link.
     
  14. daghofshi

    daghofshi New Member

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    You guys have been a great help and are testaments to the community! Unfortunately, I'm essentially useless with this car and diagnostics and don't know anybody nearby with tools/knowledge to teach.

    I'm going to head over to NAPA and see if anybody can help. If they can't, without diagnostic tools, is there a cheap way I can buy a part and replace it to diagnose?
     
  15. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    If you can't test the 12v battery yourself, then take it to NAPA and hopefully they will be able to test it for you.

    Which part of Alaska are you in or near?

    How will you get to NAPA if not driving the Prius?

    The AM2 fuse would cost less than a new battery.
     
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  16. daghofshi

    daghofshi New Member

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    I'm in Anchorage. I drove spouse to work so I have a car to drive. I'm not to the point of pulling the battery out, especially since I've only seen videos of it done... I also emailed this conversation to myself so we can explore it together at the auto store... :)
     
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  17. daghofshi

    daghofshi New Member

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    That was quick. I bought a fuse tester and those are all good. I've resolved to pull the battery and have it tested but new problem: I can't open the rear hatch. I'll keep this updated.
     
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  18. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    When you previously connected a jump to the car, where did you connect it? To the battery or to the underhood jump point in the fusebox? Connect a jump pack or other 12v source to the underhood jump point. That should allow you to open the trunk.
     
  19. daghofshi

    daghofshi New Member

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    Connecting power to the jump point wouldn't allow me to open the trunk. It is dead dead dead. Oddly, there were no warning signs. Wife just turned it off one day and now it's a paper weight. I'm going to call around today - looks like I'll have to get it towed somewhere.
     
  20. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    You can open the trunk from the inside, though it involves folding the backseats down and removing some stuff to get at the lever.
     
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