2005 CLUNKING and SQUEEKS while negotiating corners/speed bumps at low speeds

THE PROBLEM: Put on your problem-solving hats and come along with me for another joyous journey rehab-ing my old 2005 Prius: sleuthing CLUNKING and SQUEEKS while negotiating corners/speed bumps at low speeds. I did a good amount of research to narrowing down and framing the problem prior to tackling it. In fact, 4 months since APR17 of observation and living with the noises, helped me better understand and categorize what issues were consistent, pervasive and more important urgent. A good friend recently reminded me to "take care" of the problem before it "took care" of me. So here were the symptoms:
- Heard these and other idling noises since day1 I bought the car; as I slowly made car fixes, these noises are what has persisted
- Occurred 50% of time turning in and out of entry-dipping parking lots and making turns over speed bumps
- Clunks and squeeks were loud underneath front right & left wheel axle
- Not heard in faster turns on exit/entry ramps
- Former owner said he recently and personally swapped out front right passenger gas strut; he used a tool to hold the coil compressions down, however the coil systems wasn't exchanged.
- Steering column also exhibited a bit of clicking/thud under the same condition bumps at low speeds
- Nothing notable on straight-aways at highway speeds of 70-80mph
- Loads of dried cracking within rubber bushings of control arm
- Loads of cracking of both sway bar rubber bushings



The problem was def around the wheels. My assessment was deduced from mass of repairs i had already conducted. Funny how car maintenance is at times: deduction vice induction. Now to the deduction of what it may be. Those that like problem solving, like myself, value its therapeutic value. I estimated that it was either one or all of the following:
- both front strut shock assemblies,
- both control arms,
- sway bar bushings

WHAT I FIXED. Since I intend to open up everything in both wheel wells, I figured I’d tackle all 3 items and order the parts. While I was down there I sprayed every rubber grommet and boot with silicone spray (WD-40) in order to maintain proper material health.

1. FRONT STRUT SHOCK ASSEMBLY. These were the same strut shock assemblies I purchased for my other silver 2005 Prius. They worked well and assembled easy, so I went with them again; ~$65/each. The task was straight forward in removing the windshield wiper and cowel tray in the engine bay and both front entire wheel systems. Mendel Leisk had a pretty good diagram ref 37ftlbs torque for 3 top bolts in engine bay—thanks big guy! Torque setting for strut bolt?? | PriusChat


2. CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY; ACCESS TO ONLY DRIVER-SIDE. So I attempted to swap out both control arm assemblies. The rubber bushings were dry rotting and the cost of replacing both entire sets ($25/each) were close in price to only paying for the bushings ($~20/each side); so i bought the entire set. I started with driver side, but for access to the control arm I had to remove everything on that wheel: wheel, brake system to include disks, knuckle, strut shock assembly, CV axle bolt, etc. Key was use of thread lock and knowing torque specs for all the bolts I removed. I relied heavily on torque wrench usage (see attached specs pdf). The other passenger side control arm, i ultimately I gave up on. I could not remove the retaining bolt attached to the forward isolator bushing of the control arm. Unscrewing it only butted up against a lower part of the engine; as seen in the picture it was not possible to remove that bolt unless I removed that engine portion. So, I gave up and only replaced only the driver-side control arm.

3. SWAYBAR BUSHINGS. I replaced both sway bar bushings. Getting to these items was tough, with minimal access; thus wrench movement was slow and tedious. A look at the old and new bushings showed how in dire need replacement was justified. Noticeably worn and loose as I removed the wheel components and revealed the obvious creeking .


* BONUS ADDITIONAL CHALLENGE. No good deed goes unrewarded and no task goes as smooth as planned; so I experienced a problem tightening a tie rod end. Both right and left tie rod bolts kept spinning as I tried to tighten the 17mm castle nuts atop. So i had to invest in a ball joint remover set. This squeezed the entire tie rod joint together, allowing me leverage to tighten castle nut to the loose bolt.


SUMMARY. Success, all the noises are are no longer present, less the clicking/thud in the steering column under these same slow conditions. Not urgent, so that would be something to tackle for another day. I believe the swaybar bushings were the greater cause of the original squeeking and clunking noises originally experienced. I estimated that over the 12 years and 248k miles, the bushings just wore away from the center out and provided too much loose play for the sway bar. The control arms and strut assemblies didn’t hurt but being I only replaced one control arm, me thinks it was less of the originator of the clunks and squeeks.


BACKGROUND. From a recently purchased 2005 Prius I (APR17; 248k miles) I found many things that required more urgent fixing/attention; ranging from idling issues, oil burning, HV battery corrosion maintenance, etc. Then there were the non-urgent issues of interior cabin cleanliness from former owner had 3 kids), gas mileage inefficiencies (~25mpg), tire tread wear challenges, and the CLUNKING and SQUEEKS while negotiating corners/speed bumps at low speeds. Since I purchased the car in APR17, I have prioritized maintenance to include: engine oil& filter, iridium spark plugs, engine valve cover gasket, PCV, ATF fluid replacement, MAF sensor & throttle body cleaning, fuel additives and injector cleaners, HV battery & fan corrosion cleaning, all 4 new brakes (disk/drum), 2 stabilizer swaybar links, all 4 new bearing assembly hubs, 4 new shock struts, shampoo-wet vac interior, etc. My girlfriend redirected my attention to tackling the CLUNKING & SQUEEKS, long after living with the inconveniences for ~4months-- thanks Kimber.

 

ISH----and not to forget a homemade WHEEL ALIGNMENT. Anytime I remove the tie rod, I risk wheel de-alignment. I used twine to perform a homemade wheel alignment procedure.

 

PW,
I haven't thought about it. Great idea. I didn't think i could perform that camber without dropping $ into sensitive equipment. Up to now I've been doing over a half dozen without the thought. Thus risk mitigating the camber alignment. Tires still look good so far on both my 2005 Prii.
Cheap Front End Alignment | PriusChat

However NOW that you mentioned it, this will be my next task. After recently reviewing a few quick YOUTUBE vids, I see that i could do this with new camber bolts/nuts and a special magnetic leveling tool.

ty

 

JJ,
Great alternative idea with using carjack and the car's weight to tighten the tie rod ends. That was such a pain at the time.
Yeah, I am a fan of stacking and doing all car maintenance at one time when i have Prius all opened up;
however at times it runs counter to piecemeal work that allows me to methodically listen & fix car symptoms/problems.
I definitely will consider retackling that right control arm down the road if it acts up; until then all current car underside noises have subsided.

 

Patrick,
I just ordered a $13 magnetic camber tool and some of those spiffy camber bolts and . As mine now are just those straight plane jane ones.
Thanks,
Angie