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2005 Prius 180kMi Service Recommendations?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by GregAZ, Feb 5, 2014.

  1. GregAZ

    GregAZ Junior Member

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    Friends,

    I've been a member of this forum since 2005, but I think it's a testimony to the Prius that I so rarely post - been enjoying driving it too much! :)

    Anyway, my car is about to hit 180kMi (runs GREAT - had NO problem with it). Previous to this, I have had ALL the scheduled services done at the dealer. However, at 175kMi I switched to doing my own oil changes. I intend to do all the oil changes myself going forward, but I know that 180kMi is a BIG service for the Prius (like the 90kMi).

    So, my question is - what have you done to your Prius when it hit 180kMi? What should I do? Timing belt? Trans fluid?

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Can't really make comments on maintenance other than to follow the normal routine. There is no timing belt on the Prius, it is a chain. I would suspect you would do the recommended maintenance for the 60K interval @ 180K. If all other maintenance has been done so far as scheduled simply consider 60K to be the same for 180K and so forth. It is my understanding that the coolant should be changed at 100K and then every 50K after that. It is also recommended to drain and refill the transaxle every 60K, even though Toyota does not specify this in the schedule. Spark plugs every 120K. There are other items which I have not mentioned, but that is the critical stuff that I am aware of. Some also suggest changing PCV valve while doing the spark plugs.

    Best of luck to you, sounds like you have done everything right so far!
     
  3. JimboPalmer

    JimboPalmer Tsar of all the Rushers

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    There is no timing belt (it uses a chain) so you may never need to mess with timing issues. I would do the tranny fluid drain and replace, Use the Toyota fluid and find one of the many how tos.
     
  4. GregAZ

    GregAZ Junior Member

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    Thanks all. Hit 180kMi today, so it's service time on Saturday. While getting the ATF and washers from Toyota, should I do any of the air filters or anything else? What exactly is part of the 60kMi service?
     
  5. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    60,000 Miles or 72 months

    Replace cabin air filter

    Replace engine air filter

    Replace engine oil and filter

    Rotate tires

    Inspect the following:

    __ Automatic transmission fluid

    __ Ball joints and dust covers

    __ Brake lines and hoses

    __ Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs

    __ Drive belts

    __ Drive shaft boots

    __ Engine valve clearance

    __ Engine/Inverter coolant

    __ Exhaust pipes and mountings

    __ Front differential oil

    __ Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses

    __ Fuel tank cap gasket

    __ Radiator, condenser and/or intercooler

    __ Steering gear box

    __ Steering linkage and boots

    Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions 2

    Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:

    Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body



    Above was copied from PDF file found at Toyota's owner website. This schedule is from the 09, your 05 should be similar.

    You can register your Prius and get the manuals and maintenance info there.

    Toyota Online Owners Manuals and Warranty
     
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  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The engine and inverter coolant change should have been done at 100K miles, then at 150K miles. If more than 50K miles have elapsed since the last coolant change, that should be done now.

    If the serpentine belt is original, I would suggest that it be replaced now. Check the radiator and heater hoses.

    Look carefully at the engine coolant pump, for coolant seepage at the pump bearing. This often deposits on the inside of the pulley bearing and upon the air conditioner compressor housing. If you see seepage, then replace the engine coolant pump.
     
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  7. GregAZ

    GregAZ Junior Member

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    Excellent advice - thank you all. As I mentioned, my car was 100% dealer serviced with ALL recommended services performed since new (I am the original owner). At 175kMi I decided to do it myself (after I got the "this old clunker again" vibe from the dealer AND after they backed into my car on their lot). So, 180kMi is the first big service I will be doing myself.

    This makes me realize - I have two inches of records, but why isn't there an easy way to organize and index this stuff, so I can know what's been done vs. reading through all the records like it's 1985? Sometimes the dealers and their dealings are SO backwards ...
     
  8. JimboPalmer

    JimboPalmer Tsar of all the Rushers

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  9. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    I strongly suggest you register your Prius online as illustrated above. It is very useful in more than one way.

    It is of no cost to you and will benefit you in several aspects.
     
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  10. GregAZ

    GregAZ Junior Member

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    After all the helpful advice here, and looking at my service records, I have decided to do the following for my 180kMi service:

    - Oil change (I have Toyota filters and Mobil 1 5W-30)
    - ATF drain and fill (need to buy four quarts of Toyota ATF WS)
    - Engine coolant drain and fill (need to buy Toyota SLLC coolant)
    - Inverter coolant drain and fill (need to buy Toyota SLLC coolant)
    - Cabin air filter (need to buy)
    - Engine air filter (need to buy)
    - Aluminum crush washers for the coolant drain plug and transmission drain plug
    - Anything else?

    Is there a better source than the local dealer for these parts?
     
  11. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Your local dealer is the best source for the coolant and ATF since they are quite heavy and it makes no sense to pay for freight.

    You may consider buying the filters and aluminum washers from one of the Toyota dealers that sell discounted parts over the Internet. Usually that makes sense if you buy a sufficient quantity to leverage the shipping charge over a relatively large purchase, such as $100 or more. For example if you need to buy a serpentine belt, engine coolant pump, wiper blade refills, etc.
     
  12. GregAZ

    GregAZ Junior Member

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    Update for those who have helped and for those who may find this thread in the future.

    I called my local dealer (Larry Miller Toyota), and they were willing to sell me the parts at retail. The parts person was COMPLETELY not interested in earning my business. No coupons, no nothing! Based on some reading I have done, Camelback Toyota (about 30 minutes from me, right next to where I work) has amazing Internet parts prices. I called in and got everything at a 32% discount. At first the rep said I had to actually place the order over the internet, but then took it over the phone anyway and gave me internet prices. No shipping, I picked up the parts in person.

    So far I have done:

    - Oil Change (Mobil 1 5W-30, Toyota Filter)
    - Transaxle Drain and Fill (Toyota ATF WS)
    - Cabin and Engine Air Filters (Toyota)

    To be done:

    - Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses (recommended by the dealer a while back - still look good to me, BUT for $20, and since I am already draining the system ... may as well)
    - Radiator Coolant and Inverter Coolant Drain and Fill - this is the most intimidating part - I hear bleeding air can be tricky

    Quick Observations:

    I can't believe it took me this long to start working on the Prius. I think when I bought it, I was in a different state of mind, it was the first (and likely the last) new car I ever bought, and I thought it was too complicated and too new to work on. Plus, it's so convenient, and you have the warranty (where they train you to go to the dealer), etc, etc, etc.

    Mind, you, I have ALWAYS worked on my own cars, just not on the Prius. So, once I saw how easy it is to do the oil change, I am kind of blown away. I mean, this is probably the easiest car (of close to a dozen) to change the oil in I have ever worked on (and it's the newest)!!

    The prices at the dealer ... I just went through my records, and I am kind of feeling sick ... The number of times they have charged me $52 to replace the cabin air filter is more than I can count. We're talking $8 part and 5 minutes of EASY labor!! AAAAAARRRRRGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!! And then there is the $55 oil changes (takes 15 minutes), and then there is the $60 engine air filter (takes 5 minutes), and on and on and on. What a RIP OFF!

    My recommendation to those of you who are considering working on your Prius, or having an interest in it - GO FOR IT!!! This car is amazingly easy to work on, the parts are cheap and the online support is AMAZING!
     
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  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The inverter coolant drain/fill is not bad.

    The hard part is the engine coolant drain/fill because of the coolant heat recovery system. You may find my posts #22 and #42 in the following string to be of interest, along with the accompanying discussion.
    Changing engine coolant | Page 2 | PriusChat

    Since your car has logged 180K miles, perhaps you may want to replace the engine thermostat while you are working on the engine cooling system. If so, my string here may be of interest:
    How to replace engine coolant pump and thermostat | PriusChat
     
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  14. GregAZ

    GregAZ Junior Member

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    Awesome stuff, Patrick!! I printed out both posts and will use them when doing the job. Any chance of a photo of what you do with the terminals and paperclip to run the pump? Seems like a critical move, but I am unsure of what exactly needs to be done. Thanks!
     
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    See my post #44 and jreed's post #56 and #57 in that string.
     
  16. GregAZ

    GregAZ Junior Member

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    Ok, I think I am getting there ... sorry for being so dense, but looking at this relay, which of the two terminals do I need to connect? The two copper ones? Or something else?

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes Greg, the idea is to remove the relay, then use a paper clip to bridge the relay socket terminals that mate with the relay's copper terminals when you want to run the coolant heat storage pump. This pump is located near the coolant heat storage canister in the driver's side front fender. Do this when the car is IG-OFF, and don't run the pump more than 30 seconds at a time.

    You will need to find the canister in order to open the drain. Remove the fasteners that attach the fender liner to the front of the fender, for access.

    If you leave the radiator cap installed, you should find that by opening that one drain, you will remove ~99% of the coolant that can be drained by opening all three drains (the other two are at the radiator and the engine block, on the side facing the firewall). The coolant in the translucent plastic reservoir will be sucked out if the radiator cap is left installed.