2005 Prius Died While Driving - Diagnostic Help Needed

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by miscrms, Jun 22, 2017.

  1. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Looks like good news. Got the new pump in, reset DTCs and everything looks back to normal. Will do a test drive this weekend to be sure, but looks good.

    FWIW here's what I did, based on a combination of sources online. The video from luscious garage was quite helpful as an overview.

    1) removed two inverter bracket bolts at front to slide the inverter over a few inches. Removed drivers side bracket from inverter.

    2) removed bolt from back of fuse box near firewall to let it move a little to help with clearance.

    3) removed 1 bolt and 1 nut securing pump bracket. Removed one bolt from bracket over stud through pump bracket to lift off and out of the way.

    4) lifted pump assembly up as far as possible and unplug from wiring if not done already, clamped off both hoses with vise grips. Opened hose clamps with needle nose pliers and pulled back past end of pump inlet/outlets. Used small flat screw drivers to help carefully break seal and pry hoses off.

    5) It's tight, but once hoses were off and set aside could maneuver pump assembly out between inverter and fuse box with both having some give.

    6) Normally I guess you'd have to remove the bracket from the pump and transfer to the new pump, but mine from Amazon came with a new bracket attached.

    7) As recommended in one thread I read, I used a 12V battery and some test leads to briefly spin up the new pump to make sure it's good.

    8) Wiggle new pump assembly down in to where you can reconnect the hoses, plug in wiring connector and reset over the stud.

    9) work pump bracket in under fuse box leg, replace bracket over stud and replace its bolt, replace nut and bolt that hold pump bracket down.

    10) replace inverter bracket and bolts, and bolt at top of fuse box.

    11) remove inverter coolant tank cap, top up coolant to make up for loss. Power car to ign on, listen for pump and look down into tank for fluid movement. Replace cap.

    12) connect miniVCI and use techstream to read and clear DTCs. I had C0200, C0205, and C1242 related to ABS errors from when the AM2 fuse blew. When first started up ABS, VSC, BRAKE, and (!) warning lights were lit on dash. All cleared after resetting DTCs. If you don't have a means to reset, I believe they will clear after several restarts. Maybe require some driving in between as ABS may not rerun it's diagnostics until you are moving over some low speed?

    All said and done it took me about an hour. All nuts bolts were either 10mm or 12mm. A long socket extension helps get at the ones down on the pump bracket in particular.

    Rob

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  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Next time just take off the drivers headlight, you'll save 30 minutes
     
  3. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Good to know, thanks! I assumed that would be a pain, but given how tight it is in there I can see now how it's probably faster.




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  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Just slip the front bumper cover off, it's only held on by a few bolts. Headlight is held on by 3 bolts. Then once you remove the headlight, the pump is right in front of you.
     
  5. Mrs.Diamond

    Mrs.Diamond Junior Member

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    When my 2005 had the blown am2 fuse it also had key codes as the am2 also runs the smart key features.
     
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  6. Angry Andy

    Angry Andy Junior Member

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    Bringing this thread back because I just had this issue on my wife's 2005 with only 105k miles I bought from the original owner that was 88 years old when I bought it, so I assume its been barely driven since purchased.

    When I bought it I did all fluid changes, and pro-actively changed out the inverter coolant pump from amazon....

    well only five months passed, and the prius probably only had 600 miles put on it since my wife rarely uses it.

    I drove it to work and coming home it gave me the red triangle and just lost all power, luckily I got off to the side of the road and couldn't even get it back into ready mode or put it in neutral for the highway patrol to push me off the freeway....had to wait one hour for the AAA tow truck who towed it home for me. I thought for sure it was the 12v battery, since when I bought it, it had been sitting in the garage dead, but I had 'reconditioned' it with my harbor freight charger and all has been fine since then. I make sure to drive it once a week.

    So I get it towed home, and plug in my techstream, and pull codes B1260 and B2271.

    I get on google and search those codes, many links lead me to think the transmission ECU is done because I couldn't get it in ready.

    search more, read more.....turns out Matt @ Texas Hybrid Batteries response was spot on!

    I had a blown AM2 fuse, I didn't read all of his post and just changed the fuse, then got more progress on the dash because I didn't disconnect the shorted out coolant pump. I went back and re-read again, and remembered I had smelled some burning around the fuse box....well I put two and two together and went out, disconnected the power to the pump with some Longnose pliers and replaced the fuse again....the car started up! I could move it, I went back into teachstream, cleared the codes, and no more triangle.

    So for those out there searching for those codes I posted, I hope this thread will help you as it helped me thanks to Matt nailing it on his first reply to this post.

    Now I need to order another pump and swap it out, easy peasy the third time for me this time, but Im not buying from amazon again....

    Thanks to all for helping out! Im slightly less angry now.
     
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