2005 Prius ICE not starting, no ready mode, P3000 and U0100

Is the battery safety plug installed correctly with 3 steps?

What about disconnecting the 3-way control valve and try? see post #18
Codes U0100 and P3000 | PriusChat

 

You will need a HV battery with enough voltage to turn over the gas engine, as the engine doesn't start via the 12v battery like other cars.

Given your location and potential for cabin leaks/humidity, you might try checking for corrosion in the HV battery ECU plug / voltage sense harness connector, and again at the white plug near the HV battery fan (right side of the fan in the image below).

 

First you might want to check every fuse on the car- that might be the cause for your U0100 (missing power to a control unit). You really should have a scantool that can communicate with all the ecu's on a Prius to check codes and data. P3000 is a code that says "hey, there's something wrong in the HV battery ecu- go look over there for codes". So you need to be able to get codes from the battery ecu (most generic scanners can't) Many here get a mini VCI cable along with a bootleg copy of Toyota's Techstream diagnostic software and install it on an old windows laptop.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

So i got my Cadillac converter stolen. Car sat for 6 months and i finally found the time to get it replaced. Had to get a new 12v battery too. Car started and ran solid, after about 50 miles car "problem" came up on screen and the red triangle and slowly i lost acceleration. Car eventually stopped and would not get in ready mode anymore. Car states problem.

Ran obd test and got the code mentioned on this board, i also included a snip of it in the pictures. I replaced the 12v battery 2 times since, even though car not starting and everything off, it is pulling power from somewhere. Keeping the 12v unplugged for now.

Found some corrosion in the wiring to the right of the HV fan in rear. There was some leakage into the rear of the car when it was parked for those months. Am i gonna need a new HV battery or should i just sell it, someone offered me 4k for it. Can this be as simple as the corrosion i found?

2008 Prius
140k miles
New HV battery 3 years ago

 

1- Decide if you want to try to fix it or sell it and be done

2- If you decide to fix it, get techstream, a laptop, a vci cable, and a 12 volt battery charger to keep the aux battery up while you diagnose the car.

3- Use techstream to do a health check and find out all you can, it will also let you check voltage on the HV battery, it sat for months so need to see what condition it is in.

Check ALL the fuses.

I got a Yueku Mini VCI J2534 TIS Techstream Cable Car OBD2 Diagnostic Cable off amazon and i just checked and bidenflation has hit it too since i got it in june, over 50 bucks now, others may have a cable they might recommend.

 

One quick Update:

I noticed the far top right fuse looked a little off, cant be sure it was blown. But i replaced and the car finally started without the triangle and everything was fine. 10 minutes in the red triangle came back on with a PA080 code. Smh

 

@tracy ing if i get the VCI and techstream, do i really need the battery charger if my 12v is brand new. Should i just take it in, i feel like all these codes and ill have no idea. Maybe best to take it into a shop and get ripped off? Man hybrids really seem like a headache now.

 

did you check that fuse again? what is it for?

they're always a headache when broken. i would sell it, if you can afford another car. how many miles on her?
keep in mind the value of the new cat

 

Well, you are going to be running down your 12 volt battery unless the ICE is now running ?

With the techstream you can get all the info an know more about what is going on.

 

@bisco only 137k and a recent 3 yr old hv battery.

@tracy ing so i found the 0100 error code and the blown fuse on 15 efi. It was being caused by a wire that was degraded. I changed the fuse and that code is gone.

New problem:

Block #9 PA080 p
P3019

I have some experience in changing modules, could this be as easy as buying 2 modules and changing block 9. Since battery is fairly new but car was sitting for 8 months. Will it need rebalancing after? Worth trying to replace the modules or just have someone make a new used balanced hv battery?

Appreciate all the help.

 

is it oem or remanufactured? i'm assuming a new battery wouldn't fail in 3 years, so then the modules are all old

some people have luck for a time just swapping modules, but the more care you take selecting modules and balancing, the better the odds get

 

It MAY be possible to short cut the module repair, if it is like one or two bad mods, if u have techstream, and can get to the HV battery screen where you can see the voltage pairs, its possible to find the state of the pack and the confirm the suspect module(s).

This is a video of my car, it is sped up like 20 times speed, but you will get the idea, i let the car run like with ac on and let it cycle the ice on and off and watch the voltages, and the resistance, using this it is possible to confirm the suspect mods and go from there.

I downloaded a free screen recorder called free cam 8, after i get techstream up, i record the screen and post it, if you did that you may get lots of opinions on what to do.

If you find the bad modules, and replace them, then you need to put a load on each module and get it drained to a common voltage so all of them are balanced to each other, this assumes you want to skip all the proper steps in reconditioning the pack and just get running again.

 

Here is a good TS HV video, this pack works, I assume it has no codes, but the pack is showing age, the resistance while not bad is all over the place, but not too high. If you see 30's when cold, the pack may need work.

The other thing to watch is the Batt Block Max Value and Batt Block Minimum Value, when they start getting to 0.3 or more difference take note. These are close. In one frame while under charge at top of charge, at 00:53, it shows batt block 7 at 17.94 and 1 at 18.43 a diff of 0.49 then the charge stops and the volts drop, could be a fluke, could indicate a module in block 1 has reduced capacity so it hits the wall under charge and jumps way up.