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2005 Prius wheel stud

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by JohnPrius3005, Jun 9, 2023.

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  1. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    Greetings y'all of great experience. Yesterday I snapped one of the rear wheel studs on my 2005 Prius. I'm guessing there was a fault anyway since I did not use much torque, nor did I use an impact gun. Regardless, I need to replace the stud.

    Any advice or suggestions on how to most easily remove the wheel hub, and how to remove the broken stud would be appreciated. Alas (??), I'm located in Kauai presently which has no junk yards or I'd probably just replace the wheel hub.

    Always happy to learn from those who have been there before. No wish to "re-invent" the wheel. Aloha.
     
  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I just replaced a stud on the front hub of a 2008. Maybe it's similar.

    New stud was available at NAPA (or any parts store) for a couple dollars out the door.
    I disconnected the 12v battery since I was going to be disassembling brakes.
    I removed the front wheel.
    Removed the brake caliper and it's bracket.
    Removed the brake disc
    Looking at the hub (Passenger side front), the area behind the hub around the 2 oclock position is contoured to allow room for knocking a stud out or installing a new one. Every other position has too much interference. I had to put everything back together and power up the car to get the hub in the correct position for that stud and then disassemble it again.
    Broken stud popped out easy with a couple good raps. New stud was slid into position and I used several flat washers over the stud as spacers and screwed on a lug nut to fully seat it.
    Worked great.

    Hopefully this will at least help you a bit, even with the rear certainly being different.


    EVEN BETTER, here is the repair manual section that covers stud replacement. Starts on page 8 for the rear.
     

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    #2 TMR-JWAP, Jun 9, 2023
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2023
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  3. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    Hi TMR, This is awesome! Thank you so much. Some really great tips both in your explanation and the manual. With rust and corrosion issues in Kauai I don’t expect the broken stud to just fall out or the brake drum to drop off, so knowing the procedures is very helpful.
    Aloha.
     
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  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    It ought to hammer right off with a dead blow mallet be very careful replacing the stud the little splines that are on the new stud are not very good on the hub assembly that's in the car they very easily will strip out and cause you to replace the bearing and hub assembly I'm driving around a car with one right now that spun right out of the splines and I can't undo the nut off the stud and will have to grind it off and possibly ruin the wheel which is of no consequence. And then I will replace the hub bearing with new lug nuts in place and a new wheel this also happened to one of the rears same thing.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I would draw attention to the stud removal tool shown on the second page of those instructions attached above:

    stud.png

    Such a tool presses the stud out, which I would favor over banging it out, because you're also banging on a ball bearing if you do that.
     
  6. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    Hi Chap, Thanks. As always, wise words from you. I much appreciate your reply. Always best to avoid causing more damage. Aloha.
     
  7. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    Stud removal task completed. Thanks to TMR and Chap no hammers were used!

    I followed all suggestions and advice. Thank you.

    As I expected the brake drum did not just “fall off”. But happily there are 2 threaded holes in the drum in line and a couple of inches from the center. I inserted what I think were #18 bolts in these holes and tightening them forced the drum off. Again, no hammer!

    I Mickey moused a version of the SST stud removal tool from 2 smaller C-clamps and a heavy piece of 1 inch thick steel. The tops of the c-clamps easily fit behind the axle plate through which the studs are inserted. Luckily for me the stud had broken leaving about 1/4 inch protruding outboard. The Mickey Mouse tool steel piece could press on this protruding end of the stud and it took little fastening of the clamps to force the stud inboard. Then there was enough space between the head of the stud and the axle plate to pry out the stud with an old screwdriver.

    Thanks again guys. It’s people like you who make PriusChat awesome.
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    M8 x 1.25 bolts there for the win. :)
     
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