2006 CEL question

I don't care for these instructions. I respect the effort and intent, but I prefer a lot less narration and simple instructions. Also, flipping the pack like a pancake while the base is still attached is not fun and not necessary.

Disclaimer: You could die doing this. Do so at your own risk.

Here's what I do:

1. Remove case cover
2. Remove rubber vent hoses off top.
   
3. Remove black plastic covers from bus bars (BE CAREFUL!)
   
4. Remove nuts and bus bars.
   
5. Remove two main power cables from relays.
   
6. Disconnect inlet air temp sensor from far end of pack (needle-nose, pull up and twist while preventing mounting tab from moving and unfasten hooks holding wire to bar.
   
7. Disconnect everything from the ECU/coil
   
8. Remove ECU bay (3 nuts and a few connectors). Carefully lift the bottom of the foam spacers to clear the cables.
   
9. Remove two nuts holding plastic clamps to base at two opposite corners.
   
10. Stand pack on non-ECU end facing the bottom.
    
11. Remove all mounting screws from bottom of case
    
12. Remove bottom of case
    
13. Note installation location and routing of wires and remove temp sensor harness CAREFULLY lifting tabs with tiny screwdriver. Remove harness and black snap-on plastic pieces as a single unit.
    
14. Now you have all your modules clamped between the two plastic ends.
    
15. Flip clamped modules to other end (now sitting on ECU end)
    
16. Remove 4 bolts securing top clamp
    
17. Remove/rearrange/replace modules as you see fit.

This seems like a lot of effort, but it's WAY easier than futzing around with trying to insert a module. Tear down takes about 15-20 minutes with an impact driver if you take your time. I'll try to video it next time.

You also build the pack back up vertically in the same manner. make sure you get the orientation right. The inlet temp sensor mounting tab will be at the top during build-up. When you're ready to tighten the clamp bolts to solid height, lay the pack flat so you don't get any twist.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

 

modules nuts and relay nuts, 48 in-lb. If your 3/8 goes that low, it's fine.

 

Wear gloves so you don't get cut from the sharp metal edges.....and get help lifting it out, it's a heavy piece of metal

 

Vent hoses. Modules have a blow-off valve if pressure gets too high. The vent hoses direct the gas outside the car.

The bus bars are the copper pieces that connect all the modules together in series.

For the love of all things holy, PLEASE do not mimic what that guy is doing in that video.

Those are not the two main power cables. Those go to the safety interlock switch. When you install the safety plug, you complete the circuit in that location as if another bus bar were there. When the safety plug is out, the pack is "split" at that location, i.e., the serial connection is interrupted. The main power cables are on the other side of the battery, one at each end and connect to the relays as described in my dissassembly instructions.

Yes, they are removed just like the bus bars.

 

You do this stuff for a living apparently S Keith. For me, it's only a hobby. The instructions were intended for zytra since it seems he needs all the help he can get. Next time I'll send him instructions in a private conversation so you won't be bothered reading and critiquing mine.

 

Complete instructions are provided in my earlier post from yesterday. Good luck.

 

No that's probably good then. Not having to buy replacements is a great place to be. I just went back to read your DTCs. The last four modules nearest the BCU - which I've been calling the ECU, have the weak ones. The modules are numbered 1-28 from the cooling fan side to the BCU side. I mentioned this somewhere I think. If you started at the BCU and didn't find weak ones, I think it's because their no load voltage is good but their voltage drop under heavy load is excessive.

 

Not likely, two battery blocks were weak that means at least one module in each block is weak.

 

Well, you should read what I posted today. You should drain the modules to a lower voltage to find the weak ones, if they exist.
The BCU does not lie. Blocks 13 and 14 have issues. Your job is to troubleshoot it. BTW, something is fishy still P3013 and P3014 are for the last four modules but your results show the bad module in block 12? Strange. I guess the BCU makes mistakes after all.

 

Not at all. I just take my hobbies very seriously. I wasn't bothered by it, and I would hope you try to be less sensitive when others express their opinions. It can't feel good to walk around that way.

Blocks 3 and 4, not 13 and 14. His problem module is in block 3 per his chart, i.e., P3013. If you're going to help, please try to be accurate.

The ECU doesn't lie, but it doesn't diagnose either. A weak module with a weak cell does not necessarily mean bad. It can also mean imbalanced - something a grid charge/discharge will readily correct.

However, I do agree that the discharge on the modules in block 4 should be taken deeper/longer to confirm correction or an issue (modules 21 and 22).

3 decimal places is in the ridiculous zone in terms of useful diagnoses. Do yourself a favor and stick with 2 decimal places. True problems are obvious.

You are looking for outliers. Continue via another discharge and look for "one of these things is not like the others."

Steve