2006 CEL question

Noted. I forgot that Toyota starts the block numbers at 3011 instead of 3001 like most would do. Also
note that these were on-the-fly comments that were not part of my instructions so I should get a pass for this error.

And I didn't take kindly to your comments S. Keith because I put in more effort in writing the procedure than others
would. I even left things out by forgetting about them - like the vent tubes on top. So my procedure was incomplete
and there are probably other things that I could/should have included. We go too much out of the way to help others
figure out what they should on their own. Maybe they would learn more that way instead of leaning on us.

Your procedure is very spartan and the first time disassembler would be prone to making mistakes by following just
what you wrote. I agree that flipping the battery upside down is more difficult but I don't like putting it on end
because I'm the only one working on it and I'm afraid that the battery will fall over and hit the floor if the wife or my kid distracts me,
which happens a lot, believe me. That's not possible when the battery is laid flat on its tummy.

 

Just so we're on the same page. Block 3 contains modules 5 and 6 not 21 and 22. The block count starts at the blower end.

It's possible that the voltage on block 4 was just undercharged and did not have a failed cell in either of the two modules. Or the
capacity of one or both of the cells is less than 3000 mah. The best way to determine this is to charge each module at 6 amps
and record the capacity reached when the voltage peaks and levels off. You'll need a one channel balance discharger/charger for that
to record this most accurately - it's not absolutely needed if you have a smart battery charger and a voltmeter.

 

Okay. You get a pass on the blocks. I was being a dick.

Per my initial reply, "I respect the intent and the effort." I contribute fairly regularly and spew forth walls of text of my own, so I was acknowledging your efforts. My dislike or disagreement in no way detracts from its value.

If it makes you feel any better... I have forgotten to put the damn hoses on during a build...

My kids are 11 and 15, and they know dad will turn into a flying pinwheel of fingernails and teeth if they come anywhere near "the battery room." I respect the challenges in your situation. We are all influenced by our own.

So, I'm calling truce. I appreciate your contributions, and hope you attribute my abrasiveness to my engineering brain and not a lack of respect.

And sometimes I'm just a dick.

 

Noted. So am I. We're men. Ape men.

 

7.83 to 7.36
7.83 to 7.37

Agreed; however, OP has numbered them in reverse order. HIS 21 & 22 are ECU block 4. HIS 23 or 24 showed the issue with block 3.

He has already conducted an extended grid charge, which guarantees all CELLS are at 100% SoC. His timed discharge test/voltage target process should be more than sufficient to identify problem module and outliers, but your technique would certainly work.

 

How much corrosion were on the bus bars when you removed the bad blocks?

SM-N900P ?

 

Corrosion can give you false readings. You should replace modules in pairs, because their capacities won't be exactly the same

SM-N900P ?

 

Not positive at all, but it's looking pretty good. Results suggest the "weak" block voltage response was due to imbalance.

Discharge to 6.3V and time it. Report back.

Just recently, theglass had a severely corroded bus bar that actually increased apparent internal resistance into the mid 30s, which cause a "weak" code. Corrosion on the sensing wires can create a similar response.

Since you confessed to not cleaning them, clean those damn bus bars before proceeding.

 

JC and I don't totally agree on the replace them in pairs part.... Run it for another 15. If you're really pulling 10A, 20 minutes run already means the modules are at least half empty. I have found with 100% consistency, the block mate to a failed module is in VERY good shape. As the weaker module in the pair deteriorated, it's voltage started to swing more hastening its demise causing the total cycle depth on the block mate to be reduced even further thus slowing deterioration.

So, should you replace both modules in a block with two well matched modules of known capacity? Not a bad idea. Should you swap out both modules in a block with modules of unknown capacity? Not usually.

Going to warn you that the more you succumb to pressure to get this repair done quickly, the more likely you'll have to do it again sooner rather than later.

 

I would replace the 2 modules in the block, but keep the good block mate as a spare.

SM-N900P ?

 

Again, I'm not at all convinced anything needs to be replaced in block 4 (21/22). Block 3 (23/24) clearly has issues.

 

I meant replace the pair in block 3

SM-N900P ?

 

You know this won't be the last time right? They'll still fail over time

SM-N900P ?