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2006 Gen II Prius died while driving, Red Triangle, trac Control and CEL all came on

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by chavezone, Apr 13, 2014.

  1. Easy Rider

    Easy Rider Active Member

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    I think everybody is overlooking the obvious here.

    6.7 Volts for a 12 Volt battery is BEYOND dead.
    There may be a shorted cell or two.
    That might cause the onboard charger (inverter) to stop charging......or drag the voltage WAY down.
    Continuing to try and run the car with that battery in it might fry the inverter.

    GET A NEW BATTERY. Charge it up then install it.
    Only then will you know if you have other problems or not.
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes, this is obvious, was not overlooked, and is why, in post #16, I suggested to the OP that the failed 12V battery should be disconnected. Then the car could be jumpstarted while the Prius 12V battery remains disconnected to see if the car will become READY and can be driven, or not.
     
  3. Easy Rider

    Easy Rider Active Member

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    Sorry.
    I meant to say that everybody seems to be overlooking it except YOU !! :whistle:
     
  4. chavezone

    chavezone Junior Member

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    Thank guys for all the input, I got in touch with the local Carquest in Cedar City Utah I was able to talk the nice gentleman into delivering and installing the battery where her car was left stranded yesterday.
    They installed the battery which come to find out is not a yellow top, I assumed all replacements were yellowtops.so I am not too happy about that but since I was getting special treatment that I otherwise would have not gotten and I wasn't sure she could replace the battery herself.
    I could have gotten the yellotop battery from Amazon for about $150 but I would have to have driven 2 hours each way to install myself.

    I didn't have her test the Ready system because the new battery was on its way so I figured if the new battery didn't fix the problem I would have to continue looking for a resolve.

    I wanted to let everyone know that contributed here to help me help my daughter get on the road again how grateful I am for your help , I really appreciate it.
     
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I'm glad to hear that a new 12V battery was installed and your daughter's Prius is again operational.

    It is unclear whether the root cause of her car's failure was running out of fuel; or the 12V battery deciding to develop a shorted cell or two, thus depressing voltage on the 12V bus, at a time when the fuel gauge happened to read two bars.

    If the 12V battery had not died, then DTC would have been stored which would reveal the car's problem. For example, if the car had run out of fuel, DTC P3193 would be logged. However, if the battery voltage drops too low, or when the battery is disconnected, all DTC will be erased (except DTC logged by the skid control ECU and SRS ECU.)

    To eliminate the possibility of running out of fuel in the future, I would suggest that she consider changing her refueling habits so that she buys gasoline no later than when the fuel gauge shows three bars.
     
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    as long as the battery fits, that's the important thing. yellow top is not necessarily the best.
     
  7. chavezone

    chavezone Junior Member

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    The fueling habits possibly stem from me so I think she picked up that habit from me , I tend to run it until the light comes on sine I have to log miles for work that way I know for sure how many miles I have driven on that tank,
    The car has always registered the correct amount of fuel left in the past so I wonder if the failing battery contributed to the car showing the incorrect remaining fuel because it appears she did run out of fuel because now that the car is running it registers 3 bars and she put in 3 gallons of gas so it must of been out of fuel
     
  8. chavezone

    chavezone Junior Member

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    OK guys I'm back, so the car started right up no issues so she left the car sit a while for a few hours, she tried to leave and now is exhibiting a different problem, when she started it the second time it made a rattling type sound which was really loud and soon shut itself off and the red triangle of death showed its nasty face again.

    I had her try to start it again and the sound is not as loud now and the red triangle is gone, the only light on is the CEL but the car seems to drive ok, she drove it up the block a few times with no issues, I am about to pack up some tools along with my scan tool to get the codes and find out what really is going on

    I had her send me a video which I uploaded to youtube for you guys to get an idea what the sound may be, check it out and tell me what you think

     
  9. chavezone

    chavezone Junior Member

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    Better video with much better sound
     
  10. chavezone

    chavezone Junior Member

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    omg that sounds awful, the car isn't even paid off yet, hope its not bad
     
  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    have you checked the oil level? sounds like metal on metal
     
  12. chavezone

    chavezone Junior Member

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    Thats the first thing I asked and she said it was full, right where it should be, but I'll have her check it again
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If the noise persists, besides checking the engine oil:

    Remove the spark igniters and spark plugs for inspection if the car has logged a misfire DTC: P030x where x can range from 0 to 4. 0 indicates a random misfire; 1-4 indicates a specific cylinder with a problem. Cylinder 1 is closest to the passenger-side fender. Make sure the electrical wiring harness connectors to the igniters and fuel injectors are locked, not loose.

    Smell the fumes from the portable gasoline container used to confirm your daughter added gasoline, not diesel fuel

    Remove the engine air filter and hold up to the sunlight. Replace the filter if you cannot see light through the filter. Remove the mass air flow sensor mounted on the air cleaner housing, and clean with MAF sensor spray cleaner. Look at the throttle body interior and throttle plate and if you see dark deposits, scrub them off using throttle body cleaner applied to a clean cloth.

    Check the engine coolant level, not only in the overflow tank but also remove the radiator cap and look inside. Need to first remove the large black plastic cover over the radiator, for access.

    Check the tightness of the serpentine drive belt. 22 lb force applied by your finger to the center of the longest run of the belt should deflect ~0.5". See if the noise is coming from the engine coolant pump or the idler pulley.

    Check the transaxle ATF level, which will require a 24 mm (or 15/16") socket to remove the fill plug. You may need to raise the front of the car for access. The fluid level is determined by being able to feel the fluid with your finger inserted into the fill hole. It should be within 0 - 5 mm from the bottom of the hole when the car is level.
     
  14. chavezone

    chavezone Junior Member

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    Ok guys I have no idea WTH is happening, I was getting my tools and trailer ready to make the trek 2 hours away to either fix her car or load it up and bring it home so I could work on it in my garage.
    I asked her to try the car again this morning after class and if possible drive it to Autozone to have the CEL codes given to her to help pinpoint the problem, SHe said the car started like normal with the sound from the video non existent but the CEL still on.
    She arrived at Autozone and shut off the car and went inside, the AZ rep came out and started the car and the CEL was gone with no other symptoms present and still no more knocking sound.

    The AZ rep still checked to see if there were any codes stored in the memory and he did get only one, "P3190 POOR ENGINE POWER confirmed"

    So now I think this issue has gone full circle and I am at a loss, what do you pros think?
     
  15. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The first batch of fuel you put in with the gas can, is that old fuel? Ever had diesel in the gas can?

    Either way, at this point I think a full maintenance is in order. If you haven't changed the following, you can do them now. They would be associated to engine performance/power.

    Change spark plugs
    Clean throttle body and maf sensor
    Change Air filter
     
  16. chavezone

    chavezone Junior Member

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    I just asked her and she said the tank was brand new so no diesel or old gas was ever in it
     
  17. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The first thing I would do is clean out the throttle body. Takes 5 minutes. There is no code for a misfire so spark plugs may be ok (but still recommended to change at 120k miles)
     
  18. chavezone

    chavezone Junior Member

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    Awesome , she is coming down this weekend, I hope the car is OK enough to make the 2 hour drive home.
    I will definitely get all the maintenance done this weekend

    Thanks again for all your help guys, I love this forum :)
     
  19. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    How many miles on the odometer?

    I suggest that you encourage your daughter to fill the fuel tank prior to departing for her trip home and to make sure her cellphone is fully-charged in the event she needs to call you for help along the way.

    DTC P3190 offers the following list of suspect items:

    Air induction system
    Throttle body
    Fuel pressure
    Engine
    Mass Air flow meter
    Out of fuel
    Engine coolant temperature sensor
    Crankshaft position sensor
    Camshaft position sensor

    ECM
     
  20. chavezone

    chavezone Junior Member

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    I wonder if I should have her come down in 2 cars, that way if she has problems she wont be stranded, damn it