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2006 Prius - AC Not Working Suddenly

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by ydpplqbd, Aug 17, 2021.

  1. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    2006 Prius with 254k. No previous AC issues AFAIK. I have owned my Gen2 for 2 years and 54k miles. AC has always been ice cold until yesterday. I took a look this morning and had the following observations:
    1. Sight glass shows no flow in it;
    2. High pressure charging port with Schraeder valve has pressure when I depress schraeder valve momentarily.
    3. Turned AC onto coldest temp and high fan (in manual setting). I then heard fan (number unknown) spinning (unable to determine air flow direction) until I remove plastic panel at front of engine bay. I disconnected the AC pressure switch adjacent to the sight glass. When pressure switch was disconnected, the fans turned off. However, when pressure switch was disconnected/reconnected I did not hear a clutch engaging sound from the compressor.
    4. I tried to obtain AC codes a number of times. I pressed and held "A/C AUTO" button and "Recirculate" button on steering wheel while car was off then pressed start button twice with foot off brake pedal. Also tried same routine with foot on brake pedal and one push of start button. Codes never came up.

    Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    Check fuses.

    For other reasons (inverter pump out, weak HV battery), the a/c functionality can be disabled by the hybrid computer in a pro-active protection mode. These would come with plenty of codes/trouble lights tho'.

    GOOD LUCK!
     
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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    There would never be such a sound in a Gen 2, as the compressor is electric motor driven and has no clutch.
     
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  4. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    I just got back from a drive in my Gen2. I tried using the Recirculation button on the steering wheel with fan on low, medium and high. Also, tried using Recirculation button with, and without, AC on. My best guess is that clock spring is bad. Thereby, preventing Recirculation button from working. Which in turn is preventing me from obtaining AC codes.

    Before today, I never used the Recirculation button on the steering wheel.
     
    #4 ydpplqbd, Aug 17, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2021
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  5. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Only fault code found was P0420 O2 sensor ( which had been on for several months). Therefore, the P0420 is unlikely to be related to the AC blowing warm.
     
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  6. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Yesterday, when AC prroblem began I checked the temperature (F) of: i.) MG1 INV TEMP; and ii.) MG2 INV TEMP. My high temp yesterday for MG1 INV YEMP was about 138F. And, MG2 INV TEMP had a high of about 132F. Finally, engine coolant temp was in the range of 183F to 187F yesterday (after watm-up).

    I used my Torque Pro with custom Gen2 PIDs to get these readings (described above).
     
    #6 ydpplqbd, Aug 17, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2021
  7. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Onto AC fuses and removing black panel at front of engine bay: later today.
     
  8. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    Friendly reminder: use HV battery disconnect.

    I've seen instances reported here of corrosion issues at the HV cabling/compressor junction.

    GOOD LUCK!
     
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  9. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    I might suggest getting (or going to a shop that has) a scantool capable of accessing all modules on a Prius- including HVAC. Many here get a mini VCI cable (along with a bootleg copy of Toyota Techstream diagnostic software) from ebay or amazon and install it on an old windows laptop.
    Finding data or codes related to the the A/C system can speed up the diagnostic process.

    Also might want to know what the system pressures are when it's not cooling. You can have 1/4 pound of refrigerant in the system which can give you 50 - 70 psi static on a hot day. That will be enough to allow the compressor to turn on, but not enough to cool or show anything in the glass.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  10. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    According to my Toyota wiring manual (referenced in item "c") there are five ("5") fuses associated with the AC system as follows:

    a. Dome 15A: BAT (based on p.447-8 of owner's manual) is fuse 39 in engine compartment fusebox;

    b. Gauges 10A: IGN (based on p.447-8 of owner's manual) is fuse 8 in IP fusebox;

    c. BAT 40A This fuse appears to be adjacent to HV battery. As a result, fast test should be BAT supply at relay7 in engine compartment. See p.22 of book entitled "TOYOTA PRIUS ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAM 2006 MODEL" published by Toyota with ID: EM01R0U;

    d. AC (HTR) 10A: IGN (based on p.447-8 of owner's manual) is fuse 17 in IP fusebox); and

    e. CHS W/P 10A: BAT (based on p.447-8 of owner's manual) is fuse 44 in engine compartment fusebox.

    Let me know if I missed any.

    Edited to add: three ("3") pictures from pages 350-1 of "TOYOTA PRIUS ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAM 2006 MODEL" referenced above in "c."

    08172021_AC_fuses_p350._2PNG.PNG 08172021_AC_fuses_p350._2PNG.PNG 08172021_AC_fuses_p350._3.PNG 08172021_AC_fuses_p350._2PNG.PNG 08172021_AC_fuses_p350._3.PNG 08172021_AC_fuses_p350.PNG
     
    #10 ydpplqbd, Aug 17, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2021
  11. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    I am attempting to get my v13.00.022 of Techstream up and running again. Apparently, the original key expired. I separately posted a request for assistance regarding a new key for v13.00.22. Hopefully, I can get this cleaned up and read the AC codes.

    BAD (original) key: 1111111111111111111111111111111150001511111111

    Link to PC request for help with v13.00.022 key: Techstream 13.00.22 Key Needed | PriusChat
     
    #11 ydpplqbd, Aug 17, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2021
  12. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Techstream v13.00.022 is up and running. I found the following codes in the AC section of TS:

    a. 1421 (current) -solar sensor circuit passenger side;
    b. 1423 (current) Open in Pressure Sensor Circuit; and
    c. 1433 (history) Air Outlet Damper Position Sensor Circuit.
     
  13. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Anyone have a part number for the AC pressure switch?
     
  14. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    AC pressure switch has four wires. My chart for AC only shows two of the four wires as follows: pin1: red wire - power in; and pin4: white with black tracer which provides ground. My understanding is that pin 1 and pin 4 are connected by the pressyre switch when pressure is in normal range.
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That switch also contains a separately-switched contact that can bump up the cooling fans; you find those wires in the diagram for the radiator and condenser fans.

    In many cases, the B1423 code won't mean anything is wrong with the pressure switch, but only that the pressure switch has bad news for you about the refrigerant.
     
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  16. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    That looks correct. Those two pins on the switch are for dual range pressure contacts that are closed when the system pressure is above the minimum or below the maximum. So it normally pulls the signal voltage from the A/C control to ground. (The other two wires turn the radiator condenser fans on high when those contacts close at high pressure).

    IF you have voltage at pin 4 (red on my diagram) and ground at pin 1(white-black), I would want to know what the actual pressure IS in the system before assuming that the switch is bad.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  17. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Sounds like I need to do the following:

    1. finish testing fuses applicable to AC system (so far "DOME" and "GAUGES" fuses have been inspected and found to be good);
    2. test for voltage at pin4 of AC pressure sensor with AC turned on;
    3. test for ground at pin1 of AC pressure sensor;
    4. purchase new R134a AC manifold (so as to not contaminate the Prius system); and
    5. test for pressure on both high and low sides of Prius AC system using new R134a manifold.
     
  18. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Tested pin4 (red wire) of the AC pressure switch with AC "on" with fan at maximum and vehicle in READY mode. Test was done with a test light. Result is no power at pin4. I will do test again with multimeter and also test ground circuit of pin1 (white with black tracer).. According to wiring diagram the red conductor travels to a connector identified as IA2 which connects engine harness to the interior harness. After connector IA2, wire color changes to green and travels to a junction block 5B/5J and then onto the AC Control Assembly.
     
  19. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Ordered brand new gauges and manifold to be exclusively used on the Prius. They should here in three or four days. Upon receipt of new gauges/manifold, I will provide pressure readings.
     
  20. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Is the pressure switch integrated into the condenser? Seem to remember something around there...or you could just be low on 134 because you have a leak?
     
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