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2006 Prius, Error Codes C1241, C1256, C1391

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Tyrutu, Apr 9, 2019.

  1. Tyrutu

    Tyrutu New Member

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    Hello! So I have been following this website for a while ever since getting my 2006 Prius just about 2 years ago. I'm am currently running into an issue regarding the ABS, VSC, and (!) lights. My braking system seems to be malfunctioning (the regenerative portion of it anyways-- the braking is "weak" which seems to suggest that the regenerative braking technology is disabled). Ever since these dash lights have come on about two weeks ago, I haven't driven the car at all, but have turned it on every few days just to top up the batteries and such. I am a full-time student and live really close to campus so it hasn't been TOO much of an issue since I can just bike everywhere, though it is definitely a nuisance, and come potential internships could pose a big problem.

    I downloaded/installed Techstream (ver. 14.00.018) today and read my codes with a compatible J2534 OBDII-to-USB connector and was able to get the C1241, C1256, and C1391 out of the ABS/VSC/TRAC ECUs. I saved some freeze-frame data from Techstream associated with the C1242 and C1256 readouts which I have attached below (photos). I also saved out the freeze-frame data in a .TSE file but honestly, am new to Techstream and don't really know how to view this file's information (seems to be encrypted Notepad). I can e-mail it or whatever if it helps and provides insight additional to what it provided by the photos.

    I'm wondering if anybody has had similar issues or has any additional insight into how I could go about solving this problem? Thanks so much! 20190408_213616.jpg 20190408_213709.jpg 20190408_213831.jpg
     
  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    If you are capable of a reasonably big job, research here in the Gen 2 forums for threads where they replaced the brake accumulator.

    If not, take the car to a good hybrid mechanic and ask him to source a second-hand low miles accumulator (or new they are about $1150 (IIRC)) and fit it.
     
  3. Tyrutu

    Tyrutu New Member

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    I was hoping that wasn't the case but it did seem that all signs were pointing to it. Regarding the repair, two things:

    1) Is it possible to see if my car has already been serviced for the recall, and if so how? I purchased it used in Orlando. This might help to rule out the accumulator or maybe allow me to get a new one free if the recalled item was faulty (I would imagine?).

    2) Regarding the recall, what is the information of the faulty part compared to the recalled part which was used to replace it? If possible I'd like to ensure that the replacement part that I get for it is the same as the recall part so that I don't have to deal with an additional failure shortly after.

    Thanks for the response by the way!
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Look at the IG1, IG2, BS1, BS2, +B1, +B2 voltages on your C1241 freeze frame. They're all low. It would be worth finding out why.

    The repair manual doesn't focus on the 12 volt battery for C1241, but rather on possible wiring or connector problems on the way to the brake components. But it would be easy to take a measurement at the battery anyway when starting the car up; many meters have a mode where they will record the minimum value seen. That might give you an easy answer for so many brake ECU supply inputs being low in common. If the battery voltage holds up, then the voltage drop is in the wiring somewhere. (And if you get such a freeze frame when the car is in READY, meaning the DC/DC converter is responsible for the voltage, then it's probably a wiring or connector drop somewhere.)

    Another possibility is that your low voltage code may have been generated at a time when the car was IG ON but not READY (the IG1 and IG2 readings aren't zero, so it must have been at least IG ON), there really is a pressure leakage or pump problem, and the voltage got that low just because of how long the pump had to run.

    Figuring out that part of the story will be worthwhile, because you can spend a fair bit getting a replacement actuator installed, and if it's getting eight volts in, it's not going to work well either.
     
  5. Tyrutu

    Tyrutu New Member

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    What should the voltage values be for the IG1, IG2, BS1, BS2, +B1, and +B2 processes?

    I tried taking a voltage reading the other day using my min/max function and got 12.46V low/ 14.0V high I believe, however I'll take new reading later today around 3pm EST. The 12.46V seemed sketchy to me because I'm pretty sure it was also my sitting voltage across the 12V battery with everything turned off, so it seemed obscure that there would be no drop upon being turned on. It makes me think that I was either using my multimeter wrong or that it was unable to detect a voltage minimum spikes which maybe occured very quickly on startup (assuming that's an issue some multimeters can have).

    On that note, I did just get myself a multimeter because I figured it made no sense to have a Prius without one lol, so I definitely wouldn't mind checking these voltages and trying to find a cause there, assuming I have reasonable access to these cables.

    It's worth mentioning, maybe, that I haven't heard weird screeches and such from my actuator pump in my hood before the problem showed up, or even now. My car still turns on and is silent, aside from the lights. There was a high pitched warning beep that would come on occasionally and then turn off after like 5s, but it doesn't happen all the time.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    They should be close to nominal supply voltage ... 12ish. 13ish when the car is READY would be great. The ECU isn't going to complain about anything down to 9 or so, but that would indicate something to look into.

    If you clear the codes, does the C1241 repeatably come back? The freeze frame showed those voltages low, but I don't think it saves a time stamp, so it's hard to know just when those readings were taken.

    If you have a meter connected and set for minimum-record at a time when you turn the car ON and the C1241 comes back, then the record on the meter should tell you something useful. If the meter was at the battery and the record shows the voltage held up OK there, a next step would be to move the meter to the ECU power inputs and repeat. If the voltage drop is seen there, it's in the connections or wiring somewhere.

    You may need a set of "backprobes" to successfully get your meter probes into the backs of ECU connectors so you can measure things while they are plugged in.
     
  7. Tyrutu

    Tyrutu New Member

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    I read the voltage across the 12V again after it had been at rest (and measured at night in roughly 70°F weather) and got an at-rest reading of 12.4V, and a low reading of 11.9V and a high of 14.0V during the startup. Is 11.9V pushing it? I cleared the codes and it seems to be running fine, though I only ran it for a few minutes. Lights are gone though... For now. I'm going to drive it around the block repeatedly in a little bit to get some cycling going through the HV battery since it's been sitting around for a bit, and also to test and see if the lights come back on in a reasonably safe manner.
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Nothing there suggests an urgent problem with the battery. There will be other posters to suggest that 11.9 is a lowish state of charge or even that battery replacement could go on a future to-do list for you, but the brake ECU isn't going to lodge any complaints unless it sees less than 9 coming in, so your battery measurement has not found any smoking gun there.

    If the C1241 recurs, I would be inclined to take the meter up to the power input terminals of the brake ECU and make the same minimum-while-starting measurements there, to see how much voltage drop is happening from the battery to there.
     
  9. Tyrutu

    Tyrutu New Member

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    Are these terminals accessible from the inside of the car on the driver's side by any chance, or perhaps their connector cables? I didn't mention this because I didn't think it relevant, however I had also had a black combo meter issue back in the fall semester (where my combo meter lights such as my odometer etc weren't appearing). I had removed my combo meter myself after opening my dash, sent it to a repair person through eBay, and got it back functional. I reinstalled it myself as well and haven't had any issues until now (about half a year later). I'm beginning to wonder if maybe there is a cable which connects to the brake ECU under the dash which may have accidentally been left loose. Any idea if there is? Thinking I might open the dash back up and check my cables there if so.
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I think that's about where the brake ECU is in Gen 2 (don't have one here to check), maybe even with enough access to the connectors from under the dash without a lot of disassembly. But it'll take somebody with access to the wiring diagram or another picture to say for sure.