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2006 Red (!) triangle + Overheating + No heat / heater not working

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Atari, Oct 13, 2018.

  1. Atari

    Atari Member

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    - Getting red triangle and overheating that seems to come up especially fast if I try to use heater.
    - Heater is not working... does not blow hot/warm air
    - Just replaced the inverter pump, all new coolant (Toyota pink) and bleed all air. Didn't resolve issue.
    - Not seeing any codes / no check engine light.

    Family member that had the vehicle before me seems to have put ORANGE coolant in the radiator. There is some mild corrosion I can see on inside radiator cap. Radiator flush is next I guess, but with $50 worth of toyota pink coolant required, I'm wondering if maybe the radiator is a goner - but it seems to hold the fluid.
     
  2. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    If cost of Toyota SLLC pink coolant is the problem, there are several equivalents may save a few bucks.
    Check for circulation in the inverter coolant. Need to get your codes to see what is throwing Red Triangle.
    Also 12v health is one thing to consider. The coolant side water pump is common replacement item but guess what I never replaced mine. Maybe belt broke?
     
  3. Atari

    Atari Member

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    I don't mind the SLLC pink cost (if it's truly "SLL"... relative apparently thought it was cost prohibitive though)... I wound up with the car and slowly nursing it back to health. I have 1.5 gallons of SLLC but I think for a full flush I'll need another gallon or two.

    12v battery is brand new (ACDelco Advantage AGM) BUT I went out one morning the other day and it was completely dead. I think it might have been the fog light switch in "on" position that I didn't notice. I guess I can go out and check the 12v now with the multimeter to see what it reads.

    - Belt looks good as far as it being there.

    - Thinking about replacing the engine water pump and belt while I'm there (Gates 42253 part).

    What I'm wondering if it's this P1121 DTC Repair mentioned here:



    But I don't have "check engine" light at all. T
     
  4. Atari

    Atari Member

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    .
     
    #4 Atari, Oct 13, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018
  5. Atari

    Atari Member

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    #5 Atari, Oct 13, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    thermostat?
     
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  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Any time you have a "heater not blowing hot" complaint, run, don't walk, to check that there is coolant in the engine loop. Not just in the excess jug. As I recently posted in another thread, the last Prius I saw with a similar complaint needed a gallon and a half to top it up. It also would flash an overheat light occasionally, unsurprisingly (or, the only surprise was that it was occasional!).

    If the system is known full of coolant and burped and still no heat reaches the heater, other stuff can be checked. But no-heat-reaching-the-heater can be an urgent sign of no-coolant-to-get-it-there, which is an urgent thing to check.

    -Chap
     
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  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    maybe a clogged heater core or bad 3 way valve?
     
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  9. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    ..low engine oil of course with throw a red triangle, they say
     
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  10. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Try numbering your issues.

    1) Toyota SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant) is SUPER LONG. When the Prius was new, the coolant doesn't need to get drained/filled until 10yr/100K miles. After this first service, it is 5yr/50K miles. If you don't think this is long, you should see other manufactures service intervals.

    2) Capacities when drain/fill.
    Engine loop is 2gallons (use a little less than 2gallons)
    Inverter loops is 1 gallon (use ~3/4gallon).​

    3) Batteries don't like to be severly discharged. Invest in a smart AGM compatible 12V battery charger.

    4) The OEM water pump last a long time. The longest I have heard is some guy in Greece at low 200K miles. Some here just replace premptively. I am at 11yrs/157K miles. Since this car is now just driven locally, I'll replace when it begins leaking.

    OEM parts have guaranteed fit and unquestioned reliability. Everything else is a crap shoot.
    Genuine water pump is $55.33 at Camelback Toyota.
    Genuine belt is $14.99 at Camelback Toyota.

    5) 3-way coolant control valve is $78.47 at Camelback Toytoa.
    A generic/universal OBD2, and autopart stores will pick-up P1121; best to have codes read using Techstream software. The CEL will appear intermittently if this valve is in the wrong position. When this valve gets to the correct position, the CEL will turn off, but the DTC will be stored. So get the codes read to see if P1121 is in the past history. If this turns out to be the case, then replace the valve. A defective 3-way coolant control valve, at worst, will prevent the heater core from receiving hot engine coolant. IT WILL NEVER BE THE CAUSE OF AN OVERHEAT SITUATION.

    6) Engine overheating could be for multiple reasons that you need to trouble shoot:
    water pump belt, water pump, coolant leaking somewhere, air in cooling system, etc.
     
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  11. Atari

    Atari Member

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    Just wanted to provide an update.

    I figured it out.....

    Hose came off. No coolant at all. Luckily I was in the neighborhood when it happened and didn't drive too long like that.

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    that was my next thought:cautious: