2006: RTD, stopped driving. Now won't start, 17 codes

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Greg999, Oct 22, 2017.

  1. Greg999

    Greg999 New Member

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    Codes: P0A0D, P1E03, P0171, C3200, P0038, P0001 P0102, P0120, P0301, P0220, P2501, P2202, P2202, P0325, P3503, P0341, P0001

    12v battery seems draining, measured 11.38. Recharged to 12.7 out of circuit. Load tested to 290 CCAs (320 CCA battery).

    How do I reset these codes?
    Do I need a miniVCI + software? What's the latest version, best price and vendor?

    Then what next if the same codes persist ???
     
  2. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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    If the 12 Volt battery is too low, the computer can get confused and show all sorts of strange trouble codes. If that is the original battery, it is time to replace it anyway. Many people use the Optima Yellow Top instead of the Toyota battery.
     
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  3. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Most if not all of those codes could go away if you've disconnected the 12v while charging 'out of circuit'.

    If some or all of the codes return, then you need a Prius compatible code reader. (how did you read the codes posted above?)

    On the off chance you have a new set of codes thrown, please repost them and some one will help you shortly ;)
     
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome to priuschat!
     
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  5. Greg999

    Greg999 New Member

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    Arrgh! Replacing the old Innova scanner.
    Charged the 12v and let it sit overnight; read 12.5v just now disconnected.
    Connected, draining slowly. Tried the "what-i...f" I disconnect something like the...hmm lets see, the Brake module next to the battery.
    Stopped draining the battery. Opened that box, hmm... full of capacitors. Ok, expect a drain for those - being offline a few days, now.

    Ordered the mini VCI with Techstream v12.20.. for $48, finding itsa refurb by the offer to insure it for 6 mos @ $2. Well isnt that special!
    In the mean time till it arrrrives on 10/27...

    Gonna yank the HV Battery (purchased the car June 2016, seller claimed refurbished the batteries. Gets all but top line in charge screen).
    Purpose - check for corrosion, what else? Can the HV relay contactors be manually engaged or cleaned?

    What else should I check?
     
  6. Greg999

    Greg999 New Member

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    @SFO - I like your profile photo...How does that airbag work with your steering wheel modifications ?

    The 12v Battery is holding above 12.4v; unable to clear the codes...Still waiting for the VCI scanner to arrive (by Saturday).
     
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  7. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    How are you testing the 12V battery? You need to apply a load when measuring. Load testers are meant for batteries that have to crank a traditional starter; Prius does not have a traditional starter. The HV Battery does the starting.

    Read this post for 12V battery testing and benefits of an OBD2 reader like Techstream
    Is my inverter coolant pump slowly failing? | PriusChat
    Post #5 - how to test the12V
    Post #8 - SOC (State of Charge) chart and good AGM compatible smart battery charger
    Post #13 & 15 - Techstream
     
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  8. Greg999

    Greg999 New Member

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    Arrgghh! This ordeal has been depressing and consuming.
    The MiniVCI Scanner I ordered would not connect to the car.
    The vendor thinks I never used a computer, so eBay will be refunding my dough.
    Gonna try another - after I get past this stage.

    So there were many codes, different ones every time I reset them on my (Kmart-special) ODB2 reader.
    I put PriusChat servers on overdrive looking for more things to try, while charging the 12v and resetting codes.
    The 12v would never charge past 12.8VDC.

    Put the Brake Control Power Supply back in-line and jolts dropped to < 8.4. Recharged without the BCPS, holds at 12.8v.
    Found a junker one (had to climb over cars, 3 acres deep to get to the '05; this place had over 100 acres on an old Dallas wastewater plant's cess ponds, with 4 more cars in the 'outback' that I wasn't going to look for).
    The owner quoted "$40-$60 - will price when you get here" (when he sees how I am dressed and what I drive?).
    BUT-The illegal alien part puller on the job understood $25 pretty well, and I snagged the Owners Manual too, from the '05 - which incidentally had 3, yes 3x 18-wheeler rims, plus the pulled inverter and most of the interior: inside the car.

    So I drove though the bevy barn to ward off any radioactive volcanic ash and diseases, went home and installed it - no more 12v drain!
    Still, not starting ... back to the RTOD and the Kmart ODB2 reader...

    So I bought a Walmart 'special' Group 51 12v, like the Optimus D51 one that AutoZone 'loaned me'. (Kid at college, one in USAF, and a failure to launch at home, lost my job, trying to train and get another one while readying the house to sell fast when that time comes).
    The WMT wet battery was $121, and reads ~ 13.6V.
    Cleared codes, got a new set. Cleared again, got another long set.

    Cleared the next day, got another set.

    Disgusted, waited a few days, then my friend with the mobile lawnmower repair business came over to sight in his deer rifle, so we opened the Prius hatch and connected the 12v first. Read 13.6v (with the 'special' Brake Controller), connected the ODB2 reader.

    He suggested over a beer, that we give it one last chance, so I cleared the codes a few times to see if the spinning bottle on the Ouija board says anything different thru the crystal ball, before we commence to target practice.
    So cleared 'em, and got a C1259, C1310, & P3018.
    Cleared again, got the same. Cleared again, got the same again.

    So I am looking for new cells - who has 'em, and who has best pricing?
    What is the cost difference between the Gen 2s and Gen 3s?
    Can I mix (pairing the same per bank), or is it an all convert or none?
    Where can I find the best instructions?
     
  9. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    You can replace just one if you want.
    You'll want to use one from a Gen 2.
    I have them available.

    You will likely need to replace others in the future. It's kinda like playing whack a mole.

    Other options include buying a used/rebuilt pack from a reputable rebuilder.

    Or getting one from the dealer and installing it yourself.

    There is also aftermarket new cells, but you'd need to swap out the entire set of cells at once. Old and new cells can't be mixed.
     
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  10. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    For safety's sake, replace the wet 12V battery with an AGM battery.

    Bosch AGM 12V, good alternative to Toyota True Start, $133 at Pep Boys (there are some in Texas).
    Car Batteries | Auto Batteries For Trucks & SUV's | Pep Boys

    READ this thread: Normal corrosion on a 10-month old HV battery? | Page 2 | PriusChat
    Pay attention to post #30 (pricing from Toytoa dealers online) & #34 (reality of module swapping; $ vs time).

    Since you are in TX, contact Matt at Texas Prius Battery Replacement, for HV Battery options too.

    Member 2k1toaster also made cylindrical replacements for the Prius HV Battery; another worthy option to consider.
    Read about it here: Prius Battery Replacement (GenII) Like you&#039;ve never seen - NEW Cylindrical Cells | PriusChat
    2k1Toaster's company: New Prius Battery Kit (GEN2, 2004-2009) - New Prius Batteries LLC

    If you value reliability, STOP wasting your time and money; get a new OEM HV Battery or the new cylindrical battery kit from 2k1Toaster, and be done.
     
    #10 exstudent, Nov 12, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2017
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  11. Greg999

    Greg999 New Member

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    Still down.
    Recharged the 12v, heald steady at 12.7v connected in circuit, with the BCPS from the junk dealer.

    Replaced the HV at PepBoys for $1060. 30% off code on the site, priced and scheduled for free installation, but won't take any ccard. Selected pay in store. Manager called a couple days later said had to move the appointment from Monday to Tuesday, to meet the FedEx delivery schedule.

    Went in yesterday on scheduled appointment, the store manager said it there is a safety issue, as they didn't have any HV gloves or trained tech. Also said it was a pricing issue, but agreed to honor the price. Battery built 10/26/2017, warranty card says must install and send in card before 1/27/2018 or void warranty.

    We agreed I would replace it myself there.
    7 hours stuck there waiting on loaner tools.
    Gotter dunn, then back home on the trailer.

    Drove it a while today: the Consumption and Energy displays are intermittently inaccurate - ICE running, displays feed only from HV battery. And vice-versa.
    Then correctly displays then back to incorrect. Im thinking needs a long drive to fully charge.
    After 20 miles short trips (+/-5 miles), 47mpg. Battery rises to all but top blue bar, ICE starts running.
    Now RTD again, C1310 & C1378. 12.7v on the old AGM battery, with the replacement BCPS in or out of circuit.

    Bummed...where to start now ($1k out except for 3yr warranty?) ?
     
    #11 Greg999, Nov 22, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2017
  12. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Bcps? Rtd?

    What happened to the replacement 12v?
    Your old 12v sounded like it was bad.

    You can force charge the hv battery to full by power braking.
    Get in safe area.
    Parking brake on.
    Foot on brake.
    Shift to D leaving foot on brake.
    Rev engine with foot on gas, while keeping foot on brake.
    HV battery should go up to the green.
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I'm pretty sure the OP means "red triangle of death" by RTD. Scratching my own head over BCPS, too.

    To the OP, if you are posting diagnostic codes in a thread asking for help, one way to invite more, better answers is to also look them up in the Repair Manual, and post what they mean. There are a lot of people reading your thread who are familiar with a lot of issues and could give excellent suggestions given the descriptions of the codes to jog their memory, but who do not remember every P⚓⚔☮☯, C♭☘☺☔, and U☓☡★☎ code on sight.

    So if you include the codes but not what you found looking them up, you kind of limit your responses to (a) the people who truly have them memorized, (b) the people who have time, and manual access, to look them up for you, and (c) the people who are sure they know what every problem is regardless of the codes. Another upside of taking a bit of time to look them up first yourself is that, often, what you find may let you either post a much simpler question, or even solve the problem directly.

    But be careful of just Googling for codes, because a lot of them get reused for different purposes in different car makes and models (and even years); there have been some pretty confusing PriusChat posts in the past, where someone was posting the code translations for some other car without knowing it.

    -Chap
     
  14. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    bcps = brake control power supply
    rtd = red triange of death

    Might try power cycling the vehicle 4 or 5 times and see if the codes clear.

    How are you reading the codes now, at this stage you need a hybrid compatible reader that can offer up secondary INF's (subcodes) to the primary codes that being thrown.
     
  15. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    First look into this, as your problem(s) from your first post until now could be related: 2004 Prius, 176k. Error Codes: P3000; P0A80; C1259; C1310 | PriusChat

    =

    If that doesn't help, this might get you on the right track -Quoting @ChapmanF (from another thread) : "C1378 pertains to two circuits between your brake fallback power supply (the capacitor box in the back) and your skid ECU. Pulling the 3-digit INF code will tell you which of those two circuits to look at. Your steps to pin down the problem are on pages 05-1098 to 05-1101 in your repair manual."

    =

    Here is the work up for DTC C1378 with an INF of 112: https://f01.justanswer.com/El_Jared/a935d9cf-48fe-4faa-8e0a-f0ca81735280_prius+brake+control.pdf

    Which was taken from this post: 2005 prius with 80K miles - has codes c1259, c1310 and c1378 - the car will not start - the light on the power switch

    -

    Pretty sure the following would apply in your situation, @Patrick Wong mentions in a different thread "If by yellow "!" light, you mean the amber ((!)) warning light, that is a brake system light produced by the skid control ECU. Apparently your car has a problem in that area. The skid control ECU DTC will not clear by disconnecting the 12V battery, but I have previously posted on how to clear DTC by using a jumper wire on the OBD-II connector."
     
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  16. Greg999

    Greg999 New Member

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    Thanks for responding, ericbecky; 12v still reads 12.78v, and earier tested at AutoZone to 250 CCA.
    I will try the rev-charge. I appreciate these kind of suggestions.


    @ChapmanF - apology, I will post code text descriptors going forward. I agree, it is hard to recall the descriptions, as it also useless to new people trying to diagnose and find help for their issues, as it was for me.

    @SFO - I will refer to PatrickWong's post for clearing codes too.
    The ODBII reader I purchased was the mVCI, and it would not connect to the car. I have ordered another, waiting on arrival. I am using an Innova reader, and my neighbor has a new bluetooth android reader, but I am at his mercy since I don't have an android. Going to see if I can find an inexpensive android tablet and order a BT ODBII reader if so.

    With the Brake Control Power Supply (BCPS) replaced and not draining the 12v like before, seems time to also work on the SCM ECU wire and connector testing till another mVCI comes.
     
    #16 Greg999, Nov 23, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2017
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    I'll join the chorus: 250 CCA is low, that's an ex-parrot, erhm battery.

    What's spec, something like 325? A good condition battery will invariably read well above spec.
     
  18. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    In the morning go in your car.
    Go to accessory mode. (Not ready)
    Do the "three times on/off" trick so you can see battery voltage on your Mfd.
    Write down the voltage.

    With car in accessory mode and voltage showing on Mfd..
    Turn on high beam headlights.
    Turn climate fan to high.
    Step on brake to activate headlights.
    Watch it for 20 seconds or so.
    Write down how low the 12v battery reading goes.

    Post the two voltage readings here.
    - voltage when you started
    - voltage at it's lowest point
     
  19. Greg999

    Greg999 New Member

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    @ericbecky - I tried the no charge wait overnight and test, 12.43v before and 11.8 after.

    Replaced the AGM with the Bosch AGM - thanks @exstudent - from PepBoys, $135.

    RTD gone, drove 66 miles to charge the rebuilt Dorman HV battery. HV reached green once.
    Put my son in the car for Lubbock (350 miles), and in 2 minutes the RTD was back.

    C1310 - Malfunction in the HV System.

    Rented a sled and drove him to Lubbock and back Sunday and Monday.
    $130: including a nice Enterprise rental discount, gas, and hotel with breakfast.
    After the return, there were numerous additional codes.

    Received 2 more mVCI cables, one with software, the other with a Dropbox link witche provided only 3 files for installation.
    Used the one wiffa disk; and after lots of trial and error, finally got to the point where the software would complete the install correctly without "failing prematurely" on Win10.
    Step 2 - the software started searching for the mVCI cable and found it, then found the car.
    All other utilities are also working (I presume...didn't venture into everthang, but there is lots that werx.)

    Connected to the car, read all history. Naturally, all was erased and NO CODES.
    Verifying with the Innova 3100 ABS, it gives 16 codes. Cleared, rechecked twice - 16 codes all three times - some the same & some different.
    Why the different codes every time?
    Rechecked with the mVCI (and newUsed windows10 desktop on wheels): No CODES.

    Gonna drive it and drive it some more before risking another $130 rescue trip to Lubbock.
     
  20. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Looking at minivci what does livee data look like?
    Do hv battery block voltages all look within half a voltage of each other. Nothing out of the ordinary?
    You could look at/record the data live when filling up the battery (power braking) or when heavily draining such as when driving up a hill backwards.
     
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