2007 Gen 2 Prius won't start:

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by rflynet, Mar 19, 2020.

  1. rflynet

    rflynet Junior Member

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    After my car sat for about six months, I had to replace the battery on my 07 Prius. Now it won't start. I have tightened down all the connections and the battery is fully charged. When I push the start button it goes green. Then, holding the brake down firmly, I try and start the car. Almost immediately I hear a clicking sound that comes from back near the rear 12V Battery. Then the car does not start. After about 15 or 20 seconds there is a whirring/clicking sound coming from under the hood. Not sure how to troubleshoot from here. Prius ran like a top prior to parking. Has about 200K on the car and battery. I did hold down the start button (both with the brake pedal pressed and without) for about 50 seconds as I understood that was supposed to re-set the computer, but nothing shows me that the computer was re-set. Any help and suggestions appreciated.
     
  2. rflynet

    rflynet Junior Member

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    Went back out and found that none of the dash lights come on when I try to start the car after it is in ready mode. (green light?) Except the Check engine light is on.
     
  3. rflynet

    rflynet Junior Member

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    OK. The key fob will not open the car doors either. I checked the battery (about a year old) and it measured 3.18 V. so it is like new. I thought maybe that would be it. But evidently not.
     
  4. rflynet

    rflynet Junior Member

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    After reading more posts I have checked fuses and found that the fusible link was blown and so was one of the other 10 Amp fuses. I know that the battery was not reversed in polarity. I will install a new fusible link and see if there was any other damage.
     
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  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    which battery did you replace?
     
  6. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Something was. Either jumper cables or the battery. That big 'ol fusible link doesn't just melt by itself. The last one I repaired had three additional blown fuses in the underhood fuse box, along with the fusible link cartridge. That was caused by someone trying to jump their car by connecting a spare battery to the installed battery and, unfortunately, doing it backwards.
     
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  7. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Is that a typo? Did you mean 13.18 V?

    At least you are not aware of it being reversed, but the evidence says otherwise. I'm in agreement with TMR-JWAP.
     
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  8. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    My guess is that he meant the fob battery at 3.8v.

    But yeah, there's no explanation for a blown fusible link I've ever heard of except reversing the cables while jumping. Hopefully there's no actual damage other than some blown fuses.

    Also, on a side note, I'm very curious about the starting procedure.
    What's with that pushing the start button before putting the foot on the brake pedal? I've never done that and can't begin to guess how the car would respond.
    171697_HeadScratchingEmoji.jpg
     
  9. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Yes, you are correct, totally missed it on first reading, but today it is clear as day. :oops::confused:
    It will put the car into ACC mode on the first press. On the second press with the foot on the brake, it will (should) go to READY.

    It won't hurt it, but it is an extra unnecessary step.
     
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  10. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Thanks. I knew it would go into ACC on the first press. Never tried starting it directly from there. (y)
     
  11. Calimobber

    Calimobber Junior Member

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    Fix the fuses and put a charger on the battery or jump start the car( make sure you hook up the right connectors ++ --).

    Hopefully your 240v battery is still charged. 7 months is along time but id imagine its got enough charge to turn over the car.
     
  12. rflynet

    rflynet Junior Member

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    OK, guys. Update. First, I really appreciate the input and all the help. I replaced the 12V battery, replaced the fusible link and one of the blown fuses. After that, I reconnected the 12 v battery and tried to start the car. Nothing. No lights, not a bit of power. I can hear a click after I hook up the 12 V battery after a minute or so. Then I push the brake pedal down and try the button. No power. There isn't even a light.

    I rechecked the fusible link after hearing the click and it's still good.

    Yeah, That was my thought too. It's possible that my son did it but doesn't want to tell me. Understandable. as for the other fuses that I should check... just check them all with a ohmmeter? beep for continuity ? and it's good?

    I just measured the voltage of the new battery and it is 12.15 v.. My understanding is that this is too low. Any thoughts? If it is too low, does charging this battery require a special charger? I was told that it does.
     
    #12 rflynet, Mar 25, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 25, 2020
  13. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Yup! They are made so that you should be able to see that they are blown, but it's best to check with a meter to be certain.

    You might want to check that you have 12 volts at the jump points under the hood. That'll confirm whether the battery has good connections.

    That's lower than optimal, but would not come close to keeping the car from starting. It's what I would expect after a couple attempts at starting the car. As for the charger, just be sure that it is made for AGM batteries and that you can charge at 2 amps or less.
     
  14. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Actually, you can go up to 4 Amp. Harbor Freight has an automatic multi-stage charger that will do the job for $39.99. Search recent threads in the Gen 2 forums for details.
     
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