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2007 Prius no Power to Halogen Headlights Hi or Low beams

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by cscarhunters, Oct 5, 2017.

  1. cscarhunters

    cscarhunters New Member

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    Hi all,

    I am new to this forum and new to the Prius as well. I just purchased a higher mileage 2007 to use for a shop vehicle to try to save us some bucks annually. (I am a used car dealer) I didn't buy this one for resale. I bought it to save money on gas.

    All that said, Everything seems to be working great except for the headlights... I have no power to the headlight sockets, and no power to any of the fuses. Both High and Low fuses for both sides are not getting voltage while the lights are turned on. (Multi-meter to ground and socket as well as fuses. Both with and without fuses installed to test for voltage)

    Inside the vehicle there are no warnings or indications that there is a problem with the lights. When I turn the lights on, I get the green light on the center of the dash, and when I pull the high beams, I get the blue light on the dash.

    I have replaced the Headlight sockets, the halogen lamps, the Headlight Relay, and also the lighting control module under the dash (On the fuse block under the dash)

    I think our next step will be to check connections on the back side of the fuse panel in the engine compartment then trace the wires from the bottom of the engine compartment fuse panel back to the fuse block under the dash or where ever it goes.

    I am a mechanic, this shouldn't be a big deal, but I am stumped...

    Is there something obvious, as a new Prius owner, that I am overlooking?

    Appreciate any input I can get!
     
  2. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    From all what you've explained, what I think the problem is, is that yiy aren't getting power to the concerned fuselage that controls the headlights.

    The problem seems to be that there's an open in the headlight control wiring harness.
    Trace that harness, and repair it.
    You can only identify the wiring, by consulting your alldata, or anyone you've. That would make the job easier for you to go straight to the wire particularly.

    PS: Do this test. Direct aux battery voltage from the red jump start(+be) area at the hood, close to the engine fusebox to the headlight relay circuitry, and use a DVM to test if you've got power at the headlight fuse. If you've done that, and it still remains the same, that confirms that there's an open in the headlight circuit.



    Dxta
     
  3. cscarhunters

    cscarhunters New Member

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    Thank you. It seems we are on the same track. Hopefully I'll have lights tomorrow.

    I didnt think to jump the power across to see if I can get it to the socket.

    It reminds me of a Saab story I had to bypass a relay to diagnose. This one should be easier.

    Thanks again and I will surely update my results.

    Chris
     
  4. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Hi and welcome to PriusChat.

    I don't know anything specific about this circuit, my initial thought was a master relay stuck open, but you said you changed the headlight relay. Unless there is another relay further upstream.

    For $15 you can get two (business) days access to everything in the Toyota technical information library. You can download anything at all, but in particular to your problem is the electric wiring diagrams. This can be accessed by creating an account on Toyota Technical Information System (TIS) and then subscribing to whichever subscription you want.

    Other than that, just continue checking continuity back to the 12 V battery until you find the break.

    Sorry not to be of more help, but there are others on here with more knowledge and hopefully one of them will chime in soon.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I second dolj's suggestion to go directly to the Toyota wiring diagram—this is the sort of problem that's pretty straightforward to chase down when you can just look up the exact path of the circuit, and very tedious when you can't.

    I don't know how well the 3rd-party (alldata, etc.) wiring diagrams compare; my priority is usually on just getting my problem solved, so for $15 I'll go straight to the horse's mouth.

    -Chap
     
  6. cscarhunters

    cscarhunters New Member

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    Going to get the lights on today, i am determined to solve this today. But, I have a dumb question, even though I believe there are no dumb questions.

    Currently I have the headlight assemblies out of the car and the sockets are dangling in the engine compartment. Is there any stupid chance that the lights don't work unless they are in the headlight housing?!

    Just had to ask. I would love to slap my forehead today. :)
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Nope. Only needs the wires brought to the plug at the base of the bulb. Sorry. :)

    Wouldn't your earlier multimeter tests have caught that, anyway?

    -Chap
     
  8. cscarhunters

    cscarhunters New Member

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    Yea, I knew I wasn't that lost...

    Okay, so far today I proved that my halogen bulbs work. I jumped the wire from the fuseable link to the disuse and the lights came on. I used a 12v battery to test the headlight relay and they are working too. But, I put my multimeter on the plugs for the 12v relay and I am only getting 9-10v for the delay when I switch the lights on. Not enough to pull the relay.

    And there lies my problem.

    I will continue poking and probing. In the garage now...

    Where am I losing 2 volts from the switch to the relay?
     
  9. cscarhunters

    cscarhunters New Member

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    20171007_143752.jpg 20171007_143752.jpg Mark this one as solved.

    I determined it had a bad ground at the relay.

    I turned the switch on and using my probe found the a pin on the ECU that runs on and off with the light switch.(behind glove box - passenger side) then I ran a wire from the engine compartment to the bad ground plug on the where the relay plugs in. I tucked the wire into the cab and spliced it on to the green ground wire on the ECU. It only makes the ground when I turn on the switch at the stalk.

    It may not be perfectly right, but I now have headlights and high beams.

    Everything else is working.

    I used two strands, green and white from some CAT6 I had lying around.

    If anything blows a fuse, I will let y'all know.

    The picture isn't perfectly clear but I just tagged onto the green wire.

    Thank you for your support!
     
    SFO and Raytheeagle like this.
  10. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    If it's relay H-LP that relay coil is grounded by the body ecu pin 20. One side of coil is hot and the other Side is pulled low by body ecu that turns that relay on.
    So you bypassed the body control and forced that relay on all the time. To check me check with ohmmeter on pin 20 to ground and see if it's now shorted to ground. You can do that wth the car off.

    That relay is serviced by 40 amp fuse HEAD MAIN. Nothing works in the lights without that relay.

    Btw none of the relays have grounds on one side of the coil. They usually have b+ on one side of the coil and
    Coil is pulled low by ecu or logic or switch. Very rarely are one side of relay coils grounded. That would require another relay just to send b+ To the coil to turn on the relay.
     
  11. cscarhunters

    cscarhunters New Member

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    Okay, I understand. But the wire I spliced to only lights the probe when the switch is rotated on for headlights. So yes I bypassed but, not directly to ground. It is a green wire, can't be sure it's #20 but I am sure it is a part of the headlight circuit.

    I looked for pin 20, green wire, but this worked.

    What I don't understand is, why didn't it show on the dash that the lights were not working?

    And I guess I will find out soon when one of the bulbs burn out, if the dash will tell me now. Bulbs were most likely touched while working around this one. I have new ones for when they fail. :)
     
  12. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Ok but which relay did you hardwire?
    And you did say the wire you used grounded out the relay so color me confused.

    And I don't think it's going to throw a code if something not monitored fails like the lights.
    The body ecu has no idea if the lights are out. It has no way of knowing that.
    No car does.
    If the body ecu failed it would throw a code it hangs off the can buss.
     
    #12 edthefox5, Oct 7, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2017
  13. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    I have a headlight out right now both hi and low. Car has no idea.
     
  14. cscarhunters

    cscarhunters New Member

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    I put the wire to the upper side (closest to the windshield) of the relay, as the other had had voltage.
    The lights are not always on. They are working on the switch.
    And okay about the lights on the dash, but many of the cars I've seen lately tell you of a headlight out, sometimes even a specific headlight being out.
    So headlights weren't working at all, but still a normal light bulb indicator in the dash saying all is good.
    So I figured lack of a light on the dash might indicate there is a problem. Aparently it only indicates the switch for the light is on.

    First Prius for me... :)

    Thanks again for being there. And I am happy to have lights on again.
     
  15. cscarhunters

    cscarhunters New Member

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    I am thinking old school, like when you have a blinker out, the blinker doesn't flash or flashes quickly...
     
  16. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Ok sounds like that's the correct relay that you hardwired on its supply's b+ to the entire light circuit.
    Could be the leg from the relay coil to pin 20 on the ecu is gone maybe mice damage mice love the Prius and will eat the wires like crazy. Usual place to see mice activity is in the cabin filter behind the glove box. Pull the filter out see if mice are building a queen size bed in there....that and inside the air filter box in the engine
    Good luck.
     
  17. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    One can clean bulbs with rubbing alcohol, or even glass cleaner (y)