2007 Prius wont start, no response, new 12 v installed.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by DieselFem, Jan 4, 2018.

  1. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I'll go ahead and state the obvious, based on 30+ years of wire biter experience.. Strong, unusual (acrid) smells immediately prior to a car dying are a pretty good symptom of some type of electrical failure. Now, troubleshooting an electrical failure without actually being there to put your own hands and own meter on it is a tough row to hoe.
     
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  2. DieselFem

    DieselFem Junior Member

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    Myself earlier, my mechanic later, and again myself this evening I read the jump points with my multi-meter. The reading was fine. Triple checked all the fuses, no problems. I'm at a loss.
     
  3. MickyMatter

    MickyMatter Active Member

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    Possibly the smell of ozone built from nitrogen oxide when the catalyst isn't hot enough.
     
  4. davecook89t

    davecook89t Active Member

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    And what reading did you get? Does it change when you try to put the car in Ready mode or stay the same?
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    fine, doesn't your meter have that reading?
     
  6. MickyMatter

    MickyMatter Active Member

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    I meant not to check the fuse itself.
    I mean to measure the voltages between a fuse and ground. For most (maybe all) active circuits there should be values of 13.8 V if car is on or at least 11 V if not.
    Uncommon values or zero could indicate a problem in the tested circuit.

    If you want to spend the time: The manual offers in it's over 5000 pages several diagnostic informations in each chapter including voltages or resistances at different connectors. But this would be much work.

    And turn signals need the car to be on. My mistake! But warning lights should work.
     
    #26 MickyMatter, Jan 4, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2018
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  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Here's a schematic of a 2007 turn signal circuit. If you can't make it out, just send me your email through the 'start a conversation' button and I'll send you the file so you can enlarge it.

    IMG_2405.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. MickyMatter

    MickyMatter Active Member

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    Every OBD2-Reader should reply saved error codes. There is a standard.
    But maybe only the Toyota Intelligent Tester will translate the code into its description. Otherwise one has to search the web for the problem behind the code.
     
  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i have read that the sub codes are the issue, because of the number of computers?
     
  10. MickyMatter

    MickyMatter Active Member

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    Okay. I didn't knew that!
    I'm owning a cheep OBD-Bluetooth interface, that can read very much informations from CAN-BUS.
    But now I have to check its possibilities for reading error codes, too. But happily I've never had any problems with my Prius. I hope that won't change too soon!
     
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  11. DieselFem

    DieselFem Junior Member

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    If I recall it was 12.68, and the car wont go into ready mode at all. My video from a previous post shows what the car does, which is really nothing. I can try to read what it does when attempting to press the power button but would need another set of hands, maybe later tonight. Thanks everyone for your help, I'm going to keep testing everything. And MickyMatters to answer your question as well, not only did I check the fuses but also the readings, and none were "uncommon, or zero". The mechanic did the same. Its a real stumper. JMR-TWAP, not sure if I will need that but thank you, and if so I will def message you (y)
     
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  12. davecook89t

    davecook89t Active Member

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    12.68 should be good, so at least we know the connection from the 12V to ground is nothing to worry about. I am curious to see if it changes at all when you push the power button. If it does not, I would suspect the ignition switch or brake safety switch may be bad.
     
  13. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I hope this doesn't turn into a big LOL, but in a way I do. Check your SKS button. MY car does the same exact thing with lights/turn signals etc if I deactivate the sks. If that doesn't change anything, try putting the fob into the slot and see if it makes a difference.

    The only thing I noticed different is that I'll have a red car/key flashing on my display (the Immobilizer/theft deterrent indicator light), but I can't see that in your video. If I try to start the car without the key present, the big yellow key warning light comes on (smart key system warning light). If I deactivate the SKS, no sks light turns on when attempting to start the car with no key present.

    Ooops, just reread the first post. Already tried the fob/slot thing.

    Wonder if something in the "fob recognition circuit" (what ever that entails) failed/smoked. The car seems to do everything it should do when no key is present, but doesn't know when the key is actually there. And the immobilizer/theft flashing light that seems to be missing. Definitely sounds like a loss of power somewhere in that area.
     
    #33 TMR-JWAP, Jan 4, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2018
  14. MickyMatter

    MickyMatter Active Member

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    After watching your video... I would try to unconnect the power button, measure the voltages at the connections (LED connectors green and red to white-black (ground) should have a value, switch connectors black and yellow to ground not) and replace the switch for testing with a piece of wire:

    After removing the switch one should connect the black or the yellow wire of the connector or both to ground for ACC or ON. (p. 4767 in manual) Screenshot_2018-01-05-03-13-57.jpg
     
  15. DieselFem

    DieselFem Junior Member

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    So funny story about the fob(s). They don't really work anymore. In fact, both have in the past been through the wash accidently, so didn't work anymore except to put in the fob slot. I've been using the little key for years to open my prius. When all this began happening I put new batteries in both fobs just in case that would help the situation, and one of them started again triggering the auto unlock when near the driver door. But they are both effectively nonworking. Should I buy a new working fob? I didn't think that was the problem since I've been sticking the fob in the hole to start the car for years with no issue, and now the fob's mere presence is suddenly triggering the auto unlock so the car must recognize it?

    MickyMatter, if it isn't the fob (huge facepalm if so), then I will have to get to testing all those connections you supplied.
     
  16. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Do you get the flashing immobilizer light on the dash? have you ever had it? It's a small red car shape with a black key outline inside. Mine normally blinks every few seconds when the car is not in 'ready' state.
     
  17. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Are the fob cases original?
     
  18. MickyMatter

    MickyMatter Active Member

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    I don't think, it's the FOB.
    (BTW What does "FOB" mean? I'm German and can't find anything about this abbreviation.)
    Without a proper FOB there should be the key warning light and I think some beep, when pushing the power button for starting the car.
     
  19. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    A fob, commonly called a key fob, is a small security hardwaredevice with built-in authentication used to control and secure access to network services and data. The key fob displays a randomly generated access code, which changes periodically, usually every 30 to 60 seconds. A user first authenticates themselves on the key fob with a personal identification number (PIN), followed by the current code displayed on the device.

    History of the Phrase
    Key fob is also a word used to describe a key chain and several other similar items and devices. The word fob is believed to have originated from watch fobs, which existed as early as 1888. The fob refers to an ornament attached to a pocket-watch chain. Key chains, remote car starters, garage door openers, and keyless entry devices on hotel room doors are also called fobs, or key fobs.
     
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  20. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    We're working along the same lines I believe. If the immobilizer warning light was previously working, but isn't now, it's one more thing pointing to a loss of power in that area. If it wasn't flashing previously (due to led failure or something) then I didn't want to assume. Also, you are correct, there will be a "ding" chime if the power button is pressed with no key present, and the yellow key warning symbol will light up, except for when the sks is deactivated (there will be no 'ding' and no key warning light, but the immobilizer light should still flash).
     
    #40 TMR-JWAP, Jan 4, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2018
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